Saturday, February 19, 2000
F E A T U R E


Bagging the limelight
By Sarosh Medhora

AS an essential fashion accessory, a handbag can lend that edge of chic and classic style to an outfit in much the same manner as a well-coordinated pair of shoes or a colourful scarf.

And yet, more often than not, we tend to go in for handbags as an afterthought. That Indian bags are known internationally for their understated elegance and value for money somehow seems to escape us. We are not even aware of the options available.

Bombay-based designer Sangeeta Chopra is particularly ecstatic about Indian bags: "They are truly terrific," she says. "The look is simple in soft leather during daytime and for the evening, it is definitely the embroidered variety.

Nothing can beat our jewelled, handmade purses."

Arjun Khanna points out that selecting a bag for an outfit is serious business. "The importance of this accessory cannot be undermined," he emphasises. "Rina Shah ofRinaldi has definitely carved a niche in this area. Her coordination of clothes and accessories is just perfect."

Rina Shah explains that unlike most other designers, she has always considered accessories to be as important as the main dress. "You cannot divorce the two," she says. "This is where international labels score over us."

  In India, purses are the contemporary expression of designer bags. Classic examples are the batuas and draw-string pouches, currently being repackaged as "evening bags" in a variety of colourful silks with gold-thread embroidery.

These bags are de rigueur for ethnic wear — particularly salwar-kameezes, ghagra-cholis and sarees. You get them in beautiful brocades, tussars and gold, with or without embroidery, depending upon whether they are meant for a festive occasion or not.

Leather bags carry a formal air about them and can be matched with both western and Indian outfits. These "day bags", with their multiple compartments, are supposed to be more capacious than cloth purses, much as they are mere adaptations of the vanity bags of yore.

Says Manish Khanna of Hideskin: "Indian leather bags are comparable to the best of global labels. The best part is these bags can be coordinated not only with clothes, but also with shoes and belts...."

Shah recommends delicate pastels, blended with rich embroidery and beadwork for formal wear while there are simple crochet, knitted and nylon bags, ideal for a casual look. Either way, the options range from virgin whites to powerful reds and exciting blacks. And then there are those smart and stylish slings with little coloured stones, especially popular with teenagers. "College girls fancy these bags because they have a nice sporty look and can go with any outfit," Khanna points out.

Super model Bipasha Basu feels that a handbag reveals a great deal about the taste, mood and attitude of its owner. Just as you can size up a man from the shoes he wears, the shape, colour and size of a bag would mirror the personality of a woman, she explains.

"I would prefer simple, elegant leather bags for the day," she discloses. "For the evening it is definitely the beautiful, hand-embroidered clutch or smart sling bags embellished with sequins, mirror-work or studded with semi-precious stones."

For Namrata Baruah, hand-embroidered Indian clutches are ideal for sarees and ethnic wear. But for western dresses, it is better to go for established brands in leather, simply because of their high quality of finish.

Khanna reveals that logos of western brands like Gucci, Versace, Jane Shilton and Prada are the season’s "latest fashion-defining items." A nylon bag with any of these logos would, in fact, sell better than the best of Indian leather brands.

As a bag buff in a Bombay college points out: "All my friends dress alike. We all have the same look, the same happy-go-lucky attitude... But it is my Fendi Denim that makes all the difference. It makes me feel special."

At the other extreme, there are those who are the least brand conscious. "I would carry a purse that adds appeal to my outfit," says popular veejay Seeta Tipnis. "Vibrant colours go well with traditional clothes and greys with silver handles coordinate well with day wear. I never look at labels." (MF)