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A
date with the palate ANYWHERE, almost everywhere, as far as the eye can see, droves of people, spilling out of cars, hanging onto scooters, squatting on the kerb side...
Gastronomic indulgence seems to be the new mantra that has taken the fancy of almost every urbanite today. Till some time ago it was limited to the homes and hearths of the extremely creative and innovative women, who reveled in cooking. Not only for their families, but that never-ending retinue of relatives and lazy friends. Today, however, it is out on the road. Completely commercial: Take what you want or like, pay a price and go home and sleep! |
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| Three major cities of Gujarat, diverse in
almost every respect, but with a queer underlying bond
— a passion for all things good and beautiful and of
course gourmet food. Ahmedabad, known as the Manchester
of India, home to a number of textile mills; Surat, a
city that’s dazzled the world with its diamonds and
merchants alike and Baroda the cultural and academic
centre. These cities are as different from each other as
the river from the sea, but for their common love —
their single-minded pursuance of money and food. Here again the mention is not of the endless string of goodies painstakingly turned out by mother dear at home, but the prevailing larri-culture, as well as an abundantly thriving food industry. Larris or rehris as they are more popularly known up north, are simple pushcarts that can be parked at will. These larris have now, however, become more or less permanent features at vantage points in these cities. Apart from being clustered around offices, shopping arcades and sometimes, residential areas, the vendors pick out places that would ensure a regular stream of people. Early evening presents a quaint though colourful sight. All the larri-wallas roll into the fixed areas with their sparkling vessels and delicacies from distances as far as eight to 10 km. Once they‘ve assembled, it is non-stop business till late night. The larri owners try and deck up their larri in a way that attracts more customers, and some even give them catchy and innovative names. Of course in the long run it’s the food that brings along people that translates into the jingle of coins. A fast-food joint, restaurants, wayside dhabas, larris, almost every eat-out is chock-a-block with people. Almost as if their’s no one cooking at home. Whereas Ahmedabad boasts of real late-late nights, Barodians are slightly more sedate and call it a day latest by 11.30 p.m. All the same there are a few late night eateries that certainly do not serve the choicest cuisine, but eggs and pav are available even till as late as 2 a.m. A typical evening in
Baroda, irrespective of the season, has swarms of people
thronging both the main thoroughfares (here meaning not
the shopping arcades but the food arcades), as well as
the lesser know joints. A casual round of the city any
time between 6.30 p.m. and 11.30 p.m, shows just one
thing — people, people and more people — all
ages and size, lapping up literally from a wide array of
stuff that could make choosing a gigantic and daunting
task. From the lighter Marathi stuff — Pune
Misar, Sevusar, Another all-time favourite that knows no caste, creed or religion is the evergreen Pav-bhaji. A simple dish, (loads of potatoes mashed in with innumerable spices and vegetables semi-liquid with fried pav), it is high on the priority of many people who eat out. Says Ravi, an architect in Baroda, a regular at one of the fast food joints, "Well, I come here almost everyday as I work late. Hence getting a bite around 7.30 p.m. pulls me through till about 11 p.m. The food is good, cheap and it is also a place to unwind." Pitches in a working couple, "It’s so convenient, some nights, owing to work pressure, it is near impossible to toss up a meal. Larris are affordable and cool, informal fast and good." Not many are, however, hung up on the hygiene angle. "They’re pretty fine, what standard can you expect from them and what makes you think the restaurants are essentially better," says Sanjaybhai, another eating-out fan. Of course it is a boon for the bachelors, natural, forced or otherwise, and the different kinds of food cater to all kinds of people. Ahmedabad is a shade different, mainly in terms of time. People here believe in real late nights. There’s an almost 24-hour street near the famous Law Garden, which has eateries on either side of a long narrow lane. Primarily an open-bazaar selling ethnic ghagra-cholis, wall-hangings, bed spreads, jackets and cushion covers, with a sprinkling of costume jewellery, trinkets and other knick-knacks, it thrives both on tourists and regulars — college students, housewives, executives and the common man. It caters to a varied clientele. This has over a period, led to the evolution of different food types, in tune with the cosmopolitan character of the place. There is something to suit every pocket and every palate. Says a busy graphic designer, Jaai Kakani from Ahmedabad, "I have extremely crazy working hours and after spending half the time at the computer, I have barely any energy to cook. Moreover, the larris are just a block away from my home-cum-office so I just step out to take a bite and am soon back at work; absolutely hassle-free." Many eat out due to a genuine need and for others it is a good way to while away time. Even though Baroda and Ahmedabad can be listed among the top few cities where consumer culture is booming, implying that money is aplenty, there’s simply no comparison of Surat. A city plush with moolah, thriving as it does on builders and diamond bourses, the business class here is filthy rich and loves to splurge too. But, the one thing that sets Surtis apart from their counterparts in the state is their love for opulence and plenty, so be it home interiors, offices, clothes, perfumes or food — there is a mind boggling range to choose from. Other than the regular fare, Surat is famous for khatais and sonpapari. So whether you‘re an executive with a high powered firm or a big time businessman, the larri is the place to be. The advantages too are endless: Order from the luxurious, cool confine of your very private car, or then just take a friend down for a juicy round of kulfi or else just drive down to a dhaba or a back of beyond larri and tickle your palate with spicy, sugaries and what have you. Next time a trip to Gujarat should certainly have a larri on the itinerary! |
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This is in no way a pointer to the
population problem, but a graphic description of a late
evening scene, in some of the cities of Gujarat, when
people can be seen engrossed in just one activity.
Gorging themselves with food. Eating, drinking, satiating
that unquenchable thirst and hunger, with what keeps the
world going. For the uninitiated, the first time is not
always easy, but once the hurdle is crossed there’s
no looking back and one is totally hooked.