More than a lesson in history

Kondane Fort, with its mediaeval foundation, fell to Muhammad Bin Tughlak in 1328, and to succeeding invaders of the Deccan such as Malik Ahmad of Ahmadnagar in 1486, and to the Bijapur monarchs in 1637. After Shivaji’s most trusted general Tanaji captured the fort for the Marathas in 1647, it was coveted by the Mughals who even blockaded it in 1701 for two years. It was not till 1818, that the British managed to free the fort, and Sinhgarh became a hill resort, says Shona Adhikari

WE headed out early in the morning to Shivaji’s fortress Sinhgarh, lying 25 km from Pune, and situated beyond Kharakvasla lake that is the city’s main supply of water. In the monsoon, the enormous lake fills up to the brim, while beyond on the other bank, can be seen the National Defence Academy, the country’s premier institution for defence studies.

As we neared Sinhgarh, the weather seemed appreciably cooler. It was around 7.30 in the morning, and despite the fact that the sun was already up, seen from the base of the steep rise, the fort situated 2.300 ft up, was shrouded in mist. The drive up the steep hill was taken in second gear, and the road was almost deserted. A few enterprising student groups were walking up no doubt playing hookey from college!

We reached the parking lot, from where there was no other way up, except on foot. Some tourist buses had reached before us, and large handis of food were being unloaded. Sinhgarh fort with its hill-station weather is a popular picnic spot. Visitors are allowed to picnic in the area, but are expected to clean up before they leave. The park also employs a large staff to clean and maintain the natural vegetation, and the houses built during the British rule.

Seen from below, the huge rock on which Sinhgarh is built, rises up like a spectre in the mist. The path opens to steep steps leading up to the upper reaches, and passing through a number of stone arches. There were four formidable entry points at one time, each with three separate gates. These gates are now in ruins and overgrown with moss. Named after the cities they face, the Pune Gates are the first set of triple gateways that visitors encounter on their way up. The ‘Kalyan’ and ‘Raigarh’ gateways, still more or less intact, must have been impressive in Shivaji’s time.

Since besiegers to the fort had to drag their guns up the hills, Sinhgarh was safe from attackers, till Shivaji’s most trusted general, Tanaji Malsure, led his soldiers up in the dead of night. He achieved this almost impossible task, by innovatively training giant lizards (known as ‘Ghorpuds’ in local parlance), to climb up with rope ladders tied to their backs. The Ghorpuds scaled and clung fast to the rock face, allowing Tanaji’s soldiers to reach the summit.

Tanaji, having managed to wrest Kondane Fort from the Bijapur monarchs, did not live to celebrate the victory, and died in action. Shivaji, when told of general’s death, is reputed to have said; "We have won the fort but lost the lion." He renamed the fort in 1647, calling it Sinhgarh, or ‘fortress of the lion’. A memorial marks the spot where Tanaji breathed his last. The samadhi, rather like a small temple, appears to have been built in 1941. In the style of the region the structure is painted an auspicious vermillion, but, fortunately, the beautifully carved stone bust has been left in its natural state.

Kondane Fort with its mediaeval foundation, fell to Muhammad Bin Tughlak in 1328, and to succeeding invaders of the Deccan such as Malik Ahmad of Ahmadnagar in 1486, and to the Bijapur monarchs in 1637. After Tanaji captured the fort for the Marathas in 1647, it was coveted by the Mughals who even blockaded it in 1701 for two years.

It was not till 1818, that the British managed to free the fort, and Sinhgarh became a hill resort, popular for day outings. Balgangadhar Tilak built a cottage within the fort, and would take time off from his busy schedule to spend a few days there. The cottage is now a rest house, and while the inner furnishings have been changed, the exterior is probably much as it was during Tilak’s time.

An interesting place to visit is the ‘Gunpowder Store’, a small stone structure, with a sloping roof. Even more interesting is the cave dug out of sheer rock, which was used as a stable for horses, where they could be safely hidden from sight, and be protected from the vagaries of nature. A natural spring that provided water for the horses throughout the year can still be seen.

A broken down temple, dedicated to Shiv- Parvati, is located next to a small natural lake. An attempt to cover the roof with corrugated tin sheets on a wooden frame, met with little success, and a gale that hit the area about a year ago, brought the roof down again. However, dilapidated or otherwise, the temple continues to receive homage from the dozen or so families who live at the fort. The brass bell hanging above the shrine wears a polished look from frequent use, and there is fresh vermillion on the foorheads of the deities. Those who live in the fort are all descendants of Shivaji’s trusted aides and continue to be responsible for its upkeep.

The high altitude with its accompanying climate makes it ideal for flora and fauna to flourish. In the monsoon the grass underfoot is covered with tiny pink flowers, while moss clings to the branches of the trees. Wild balsam in purples and pinks growing in clusters are interspersed with tiny yellow daisies. Huge banana trees grow on the hillside, and according to the caretakers, have grown there since Shivaji’s time, a new one appearing when the old tree dies.

A number of tea stalls beckon visitors to taste their speciality, ‘vada pao’, one of the region’s most famous snacks, it consists of slices of bread accompanied by pakoras. In that misty atmosphere, holding a cup of hot tea, and the excellent ‘vada pao’ filling the void brought on by the strenuous climb, the visit to Simhagarh becomes more than a lesson in history. Sitting up there one may well ponder on how times have changed, and about the larger than life character of Shivaji.