The beckoning Dev bhoomi
By Alka Kashyap

AS you enter Himachal Pradesh from Parwanoo, you will come across a signboard saying: "Welcome to the Dev Bhoomi".

Yes, Himachal is the land of gods, goddesses, saints and mystical pujaris. They all have intriguing stories to tell that will hold you in their spell for a long time.

Himachal is bedecked with a number of ancient temples and so is, "The Queen of Hills", Shimla. Despite a lot of commercialisation, Shimla still holds some of the most enchanting temples in its fold, that are well worth the attention of the casual visitor.

Each pujari in-charge states unhesitatingly that his own particular temple is more than 4,000 years old. However, according to researchers, one of the most ancient temples in Shimla is that at Annandale. Lekh Ram, an old-timer, says that religious ceremonies used to be held there long ago. The once beautiful building surrounded by deodars is now falling into decay.

"Better this decay than it being renovated as some modern Shimla temple with corrugated iron roofs and inappropriate designs", scoffs Lekh Ram.

The main Kali Bari temple is situated in the heart of Shimla. Besides enfolding the statue of goddess Kali, it also enshrines the statue of goddess Shyamala. The origin of the name ‘Simla’ is linked to this Devi.

Relying on Pandit Sudhanshu Shekhar Bhattacharya, better known as Chhotta Swamiji’s version, a majee was enshrined in a small temple surrounded by a verandah. An Englishman on camp had this wooden idol thrown into a khud and made the temple into his kitchen. At night he had a vision of two horsemen attacking him with spears, and he awoke shouting for help. When told that the majee would wreak vengeance unless restored to her house, the idol was re-installed in a new temple here. This was the statue of Shyamala Devi which was originally four feet in height but was later replaced by a smaller and better-made figure from Jaipur.

On the spot where Kali Bari stands, a tantrik-sadhu sat in deep meditation under a big deodar tree before an image of goddess Kali. The sadhu was revered by everyone for his supernatural powers. On his death in 1845, a Bengali named Ram Charan Brahmachari got the main temple erected, wherein both images of Kali and Shymala Devi were installed.

Even today the door of the temple is closed at such times as the goddess is supposed to sleep or rest. The temple is adorned with seven metal bells which ring at regular intervals during the main aarti. As Chhote Swamiji explains its significance. "The sound may bring peace to the hearts of man."

For many years a mid-day gun used to be fired just below this temple. But later this practice was discontinued following objections from neighbouring residents.

Approximately, 5 km from the main city is another Kali temple, popularly known as "Kamna Devi," situated on Prospect Hill. Here, too, goddess Kali reigns supreme and blesses anyone who takes this arduous journey up the hill. The presiding priest proudly claims that till date, not a single visitor has gone back without his wish being fulfilled. Built in a dome style, the main door of the temple faces the east, thus welcoming the morning rays of the sun. The temple remains open for all 24 hours.

Different stories prevail about the construction of this temple. Some say it was built by Raja Junga, and during his reign the king used to visit this temple several times a year to perform pooja.

On the other hand, the temple priest claims that it was his forefathers who got this temple built and since then all the following generations have spent their lives in taking care of this temple.

No matter who built this temple, it certainly is a place worth a visit. Surrounded by tall deodar trees, its environment has an aura of tranquillity. Besides being a beautiful picnic spot, one can also enjoy a bird’s eyeview of many important parts of Shimla.

On the summit of the Jakhu Hill, about 8,300 feet, is a small temple dedicated to Hanuman. This highest peak of Shimla acquired its name from saint Jakhu, who was an ardent devotee of Lord Hanuman.

Initially, it was a small wooden temple with a stone statue in it. Several saints and fakirs used to visit it, and a priest used to serve drinking water to all.

A legend goes, that Lord Hanuman, while on his way to fetch Sanjivani booti from the Himalayas to revive Lakshman, stopped on his way at Jakhu. The place where he sat has been converted into a small temple, where his footprints are preserved till today. When he met saint Jakhu, he was immensely touched by his earnest devotion, and so he promised to visit him again on his way back. But Hanumanji could not fulfil his promise, and when he remembered it on reaching Sri Lanka, he sent his idol as a token of blessing. That idol is installed in the main temple till today. Jakhu temple is naturally haunted by hundreds of monkeys who are said to be followers of Lord Hanuman. Here lived a fakir chiefly famed as the presiding genius over the troops of brown monkeys, which practically owned the hilltop.

It was a curious sight of the old fakir in his yellow garments standing in front of the temple and calling ajao, ajao to his monkey children. For many he had names such as "Raja" "Rani" "Kotwal" "Daroga" etc. and all of them would eat freely from his hand.

The shrine, as it existed, is somewhat altered today, but it is a spot that all visitors seem to find of special interest. It’s a real treat for the Shimla children who make the steep journey up the hill, where they throw biscuits and gram to the chattering monkeys.

Moving a distance of 6 km away from Shimla on the Shimla-Kalka highway, we come across another beautiful temple known as "Sankat Mochan". True to its name, this temple rids the people of all their sorrows and pain.

Here we don’t have to climb any hills to reach theLord. In fact a fully motorable road has been constructed right up to the gate of the temple.

The temple has been built in a modern style. The beautifully carved stone walls and a fluorescent red roof are the hallmark of its unique grandeur. Exquisite marble statues of Lord Rama, Sita and Shiva are installed and hundreds of worshippers throng to pay their obeisance. A full-size statue of Lord Hanuman also has a prominent place in the temple.

Trees and shrubs surrounded the temple, lending a beautiful contrast to the concrete structure. It is believed by the temple caretakers that Lord Mahavira appeared in the dream of a saint named Neem Karoli and urged him to build a temple in the Shimla hills. Inspired by the divine vision, Baba selected this particular site and the construction commenced in 1962. It was after four years that temple got completed and was thrown open to the commoners.

Beside this temple, a rest house or a dharamsala has also been constructed where people can meditate in the peaceful surroundings. Every year Navratras are celebrated with a lot of gaiety and fervour. Langar is organised every Sunday and on all special occasions.

Perched-up on another prominent peak of Shimla is the temple of Tara Devi. The trek on the long rugged winding lane is almost 3.5 km-long. There are several signboards fixed on the trees that prevent you from getting lost in the woods.

The statue of deity Tara is installed here. Tara Devi is believed to have emanated from the eyes of Lord Abhilabh. Some say Tara was born in a lotus that bloomed in the pond of Lord Avlokiteshwar’s tears.

Tara symbolises all the virtuous and the most beautiful women on this earth. While chatting with the octogenarian Panditji, it was revealed that till recently, a special fair used to be held here in honour of the deity. Two buffaloes were invariably offered... their heads being severed with a single blow of kukhri by a sturdy Gurkha.

In 1970, some burglars broke into this temple and decamped with Devi’s idol. The priest was stunned and he didn’t know where to look for it. Just then his daughter appeared who was in some state of a frenzy. She was trembling fiercely and uttering the words "I am in the jungle. Come and take me". The priest followed her directions and unearthed the statue from where it had been hidden. Tara Devi was re-installed with due ceremonies.

Another beautiful old temple situated at the foothills of Shimla is that of Dhanu Devta. This is one of the rare temples where only a male god is worshipped. Built in a traditional pahari style it is replete with intricate woodwork. The outer hall has a roof in the Pagoda-style. Some parts of this temple have been renovated in the modern style but efforts are on to preserve the age-old structure. Such a structure is certainly of great importance in the history of Himachal Pradesh.