Glass beads jewellery

In Gujarat the Ahir community has been traditionally using glass beads to make simple necklaces. In Punjab, too, glass beads have been used in villages to make small wall hangings, usually by the students of primary and middle schools, as taught to them by their craft teachers,
contends Thakur Paramjit

THIS is the story of a woman who challenged her poverty and emerged victorious in her fight against starvation.

"Hunger made me an artist", says Kalpana, while sitting in her small house in Bhuj (Kutchh-Gujarat). Gujarat has been famous for its embroidery, but the art of using glass beads to create intricate pieces of jewellery and items of decoration is relatively new. Started seven years ago by Kalpana, it has crossed the boundaries of the little town of Bhuj and is becoming quite popular in big cities of India, and abroad too.

The idea is not novel. In Gujarat the Ahir community has been traditionally using glass beads to make simple necklaces. In Punjab too, glass beads have been used in villages to make small wall hangings, usually by the students of primary and middle schools, as taught to them by their craft teachers. But all these have been amateur efforts, and people did not develop the craft to take on such intricate and elaborate shapes.

Kalpana’s husband was having good income from his business and she was a content housewife, attending to her household chores and looking after her son and daughter. But her brother-in-law squandered all the money in gambling and the family came to the brink of starvation. Then one day, as Kalpana sat in her house, depressed and lost in deep thoughts to find a solution to the dilemma, she picked up a needle and started threading glass beads. Gradually, the shape of a two-tiered necklace criss-crossed by thin strings of beads emerged. She borrowed some money from an acquaintance, purchased beads from the market and made 4-5 such necklaces. A local shopkeeper readily purchased her creations......and that moment heralded the commencement of her journey on the road to prosperity, leaving behind the dark world of death and hunger.

Seven years have since passed. With each successive year, Kalpana has come out with newer and more elaborate pieces, giving free reign to her artistic talent. Her pieces are keenly sought after by modern girls and housewives. Her exhibitions held in Bangalore, Bombay, Chandigarh and Delhi have been great successes. The items created by her include two-tier and multi-tier necklaces, both with matching hangings for ears; multi-tier triangular necklaces; wide long strip for use on neckline of blouse; wall hangings — big square pieces, to be used individually — and strings of small square pieces, all diligently embellished with glass beads of various hues, shapes and sizes to form elaborate patterns; different kinds of buttons for dresses by juxtaposing shells, mirrors and beads (another hot favourite among city women and dress designers); and kothli, a kind of purse.

The popularity of her items in her home state Gujarat is evident during Navratras when the women bedeck themselves in traditional dresses and finery, and dances and festivities continue till late at night for nine consecutive days. "I work round the clock then to meet the demand," she says.

"The necklaces are something new, something exquisite, and very reasonably priced too", says Candy, a city model. "I agree", adds Sheetal, an MBA student", "With little pocket money at our disposal, we can venture into the world of fashion with this kind of jewellery."

Kalpana is very quality conscious. She pays attention to minute details — right from purchasing high quality beads, at double the rates of ordinary beads, to closely knitting them, leaving no spaces, loose threads or edges thereof. A couple of other women have jumped into the fray, but their items are no match for those of Kalpana, which show a high degree of craftsmanship (or should I say craftswomanship?)

Starting from scratch, her business has flourished so much that she now has 50 women working under her. These women come to her house in the morning and make different items according to her designs. She gives them raw material and closely observes their work to maintain quality. She gets up early in the morning, does her household chores and helps her children in getting ready for their schools. By 8.30 am, women start arriving at her house, and she remains busy in alloting and supervising their work till 1.30 pm when they leave. Then she starts preparing lunch. In the afternoon, she visits the market to sell her goods to shopkeepers. Thereafter, she again becomes busy in discharging her household duties. So her schedule remains hectic from morning till night. But her achievement is remarkable — from an unemployed woman at the brink of starvation, to the one who gives part-time employment to 50 women of her area.