Cyclic trends of fabrics
Fashion
By Nikhil Bhagat

IT is not just designs and trends that go through a cyclic change in the fashion world. Fabrics too go through this process. A particular weave or texture could be hot today, but in a matter of weeks, could lose its allure.

In fact, there are times when nothing much happens in the overall styling or look of a garment, only that the fabric could keep changing. The salwar kameez you saw last year at a designer store would still look the same, but for the fact that it is not silk any more, but cotton.

That itself can make a world of a difference to the wearer. The feel of the garment, its fall, the silhouette, even the attitude of the wearer would depend on the fabric. What was considered casuals for instance, could become formal wear without a change in the critical design elements.

But then, fabric choices are never arbitrary. It is also subject to the rigmarole of fashion trends. Polyester — once the hottest of all hi-fashion fabrics — has suddenly become low class, the kind of material only the poor and unsophisticated would care to be seen in.

Today, designers are going all out to make a celebration of cotton-rayon, viscose-rayon, cotton-polyesters and polyester-viscose, all for one reason. They have suddenly discovered that these blends go down extremely well with the physique of an average Indian woman. And this is true not only of the middle-class. The creme de la creme of society also go beyond their usual silks and chamois satins to try out the fabric blends which remain wrinkle-free and are known for their durability, and easy-to-maintain quality.

Knits and stretchable fabrics are also gaining in popularity, though designers are divided in their opinion about the durability factor. Designer Arjun Khan-na, for instance, chooses to work with sheer and flowing material like silk and chiffon with stretches and knits for non-formals. In formals, he recommends organdie. "My range of organdie salwar-kameez with fine resham work are selling a lot these days even through the material is not the easiest to maintain and, surely, not as durable as rayon and polyester blends", he points out.

Another top designer, Chan-dni Kapoor, says that she prefers eco-friendly material (of 80 per cent natural fibre), whereas Azim Khan insists that for formal outfits, blends work best, provided they are of the imported variety. "I have nothing against the made-in-India tag", he explains. "But personally, I don’t find Indian fabrics really satisfying. I am experimenting with a new blend, that of chamois and chiffon for formal and ethnic wear. I believe in giving my customers the best."

"Jacket king" Shahab Durazi feels that crepe, wool, silk and rayon are ideal for Indian climatic conditions, just as blends that are sheer and soft. Man-made fibres like rayon, linen and viscose go well with western wear and natural fibres like silk, khadi and wool suit ethnic outfits.

"I do not think durability has much to do with the popularity of fabrics", he explains. "Hi-fashion garments have low repeat value and are not meant for daily wear, regardless of their price. What matters is whether the fabric best complements the design you have in mind."

Ashwin Warde points out that he couldn’t bother to check whether polyester is ‘in’ or ‘out’ if it suits his design. "Polyester is available in various grades", he points out. "Good quality polyester is doing very well."

Khanna adds: "There is a certain snob value attached to fabrics. For the so-called high society, silk and chamois are more in style. You would find them mostly in Delhi and Bangalore. They are still wary of common fabrics. Of course, there are cultural reasons for this as well."

But then, there are few fabrics, like cotton, that cut across people of all classes, rich and not-so-rich. It is hard to maintain, and yet is seen to lend a touch of class, especially to sarees, salwar-kameezes and such ethnic wear. The only restriction about cotton is that it does not find much favour as evening wear. As Khanna puts it: "I can create the most exquisite cotton outfit that would look as grand as silk, but nobody will wear it for an evening party. Silk is considered appropriate for special occasions."

Ultimately, it all boils down to a question of convenience to the wearer. A silk outfit, which has to be dry-cleaned at the drop of curry oil, does not make any sense to a working woman. But the same outfit would adorn the wardrobe of another woman with ease. (MF)