Losing oneself in the wilderness
Getaway
By Bijender Sharma

AS the first light of morning quietly appears on the distant horizon the sun’s rays sally forth as harbingers of glad tidings. They seem to be gently unloading the stars of the night into the waters of the numerous streams that flow through Kangra’s enchanting valleys. The vegetation is a fascinating mix of tropical and sub-Himalayan varieties. Pines flow into recently planted eucalyptus, powerful pipals and sprawling banyans control their own domains, acres of mango groves race along the roads, Katha forests take over whole hillsides, short date-palms make cameo appearances and high bamboos crowd every hollow. We climb higher, and oaks and majestic Himalayan cedars (deodars) ride the crest of every hill. Behind a sheer wall covered with breathtaking murals carved in snow, rise the Dhauladhar ranges — stark white against the flawless sky.

As we take any of the half-a-dozen roads that leed to Dharamsala, the refreshing breeze provides a heady effect. One turn brings the warmth rising from the wide valley and another holds a cool draught from the snow. Dharamsala is the district Headquarters of Kangra and rises from 1300 mt to a commanding 1770 mt. The lower part of the town holds Yol Camp — a cantonment area. Italian POWs were kept there during World War II. Then you have the War memorial. With meandering paths, the War Memorial is built in a serene pine grove and commemorates the war heros of Himachal Pradesh.

Past this, lies the library — a veritable treasure trove on Kangra’s rich heritage. And just above, is the Kangra Art Museum. Its exhibits include Kangra’s famous miniature paintings and a collection of sculptures, pottery items and drawings, as well as the work of contemporary artists and photographers.

From Kashmir House, one can take a steep walk or drive to Mcleodganj. Or past Forsytheganj — named after a commissioner of the Punjab — take the regular road. In the shade of cedar branches, just past Forsytheganj, stands the charming church of St John. By its side, is an obelisk over the grave of British Viceroy Lord Elgin, who died here in 1863.

The history of Dharamsala and the surrounding area dates back to more than 3,500 years. The earliest known tribes were the Dasas, renowned in the art of warfare. As the area was exposed to successive invasions, the origional Dharamsala has undergone changes.

In 1849, the British stationed a regiment here, but Dharamsala did not remain a military base for long. By 1855, it was a popular hill station and the administrative headquarters of Kangra district, which had been annexed by the British in 1848. The two main areas of the region at that time were Mcleodganj, named after Lieutenant Governor of Punjab David Mcleod and Forsytheganj.

Lord Elgin, viceroy of British India and Governor-General of Canada in 1846, loved the forests of Dharamsala so much that before dying here in 1863, he expressed a desire to be buried in the graveyard of St John’s church.

Often called the ‘Little Lhasa’ Mcleodganj now rests firmly on the world map as the residence of the Dalai Lama. There is a sizeable Tibetan community here, and the prayers at the monastery have a mesmerising effect on every visitor. The delightful bazaar has a host of Tibetan artefacts on sale.

A bare five-minute walk from the Dalai Lama’s residence is Himachal Tourism’s hotel Bhagsu. A beautiful cedar forest crowned by high peaks rises behind it.

The hotel’s beautiful lawn-embellished with stones collected from the forest-gives an invitation for a relaxed sit-out meal. The hotel is often used as a base camp for a number of interesting excursions — to the picturesque spots of Kunnal Pathri, Dall Lake, Tatwani Kareri Lake and Machchrial (Indira Ghat). You can even visit ancient temples at Masrur, Bhagsu Nag, Baglamukhi, Haripur, Kangra, Nurpur and Tirlokpur. The forts of Kangra, Mangarh and Tira Sujanpur are also worth a visit.

Palampur, 40 km from Dharamsala and at the height of 1250 mt, had a somewhat different landscape. The slopes rise gently and much of the wilderness has been tamed, but none of the beauty has been eroded. Here is the quintessence of the Kangra Valley’s beauty.

The name Palampur comes from the local ‘Pulum’ (lots of water). And water certainly abounds here. There are large rivulets (like the turbulent 300-metre wide Bundla Khud), small streams and tiny brooks. But whatever their size, they have one thing in common — they are full of life.

This bounty of nature (water) and the refreshing climate — cool breezes laden with moisture from the snows and warm sunshine — have given Palampur its tea gardens. Tea gardens have enhanced the beauty of the region. The plantation was introduced by Dr Jameson in 1849. Kangra tea has been internationally acclaimed since 1883.

The church and Himachal Tourism’s Hotel T-Bud are located in some of the finest areas of Palampur.

From Hotel T-Bud, you can venture to the monasteries of Bir and Tashijong. The head lama who is yet to enter his teens resides in the Tashijong monastery. Andretta, 13 km away, is famous for the art gallery of celebrated artist Sobha Singh and a pottery centre. The more adventurous can take one of the passes through the Dhauladhar ranges to Chamba.

There are numerous temples around Palampur. The most famous one is at Baijnath, 15 km from Palampur. It is believed that here, King Ravana invoked Lord Shiva for the boon of immortality. In olden days Baijnath was known as Kirgram or the home of Kiratas. the 12th century-temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is famous for its exquisite carvings. It is being managed by Archaeological Survey of India.