The sweet smell of Rohtak’s rewri

By Rajbala Phaugat

IT may be surprising that a small thing called rewri, a special winter delicacy of Rohtak, can have a fascinating history (in fact a legend) full of ups and downs, travails and affluence. The incense of its sweet reputation has crossed not only the district and state borders but also reached alien markets in Europe and the Middle East.

In fact, rewri of Rohtak is known for its distinct flavour and crispness. The product owes much of its early fame to Jamini, a Muslim halwai, who had an humble outlet at Barra Bazaar during pre-Partition days. The glory and affluence attached to rewri came much later. Nobody clearly knows, not even the gazetteer-writing English officers of post-1870s, as to how this delicacy got its two syllable name. The antiquity of a well-known post-medieval phrase andha bantey rewri, mur mur apnon hee ko dey is of little help in throwing some light on its history. It looks as if it were in existence much before the phrase was coined. Through collateral evidence we can say that rewri must have come into existence in later Mughal period through an accidental concoction of gur and til (i.e., jaggery and gingelly).

Senior persons like Tek Chand, associated for long with the manufacturing and retailing of rewri and gajjak, admit hastily that rewri was first introduced at Rohtak by Jamini, and also , that his legacy has nowadays assumed proportions of a flourishing cottage industry". In winter months, local people but at least some quantity of crispy rewri, gajjak products and enjoy munching it in the cosy sunshine. Most households buy it as a ‘seasonal delicacy’ for self consumption and also for gifting it to distant relations.

In the alleys of Kewalganj and adjoining markets of Rohtak, one can see skilled workers briskly making various forms of rewri and gajjak in over a 100 workshop-cum-retail outlets. Sales pick up in the afternoon. Manufacturing is done almost daily. It starts around Diwali, steps up during harsh winter, peaks around Makar Sankranti and Lohri and declines gradually towards Holi to cease within a week.

The winter season suits rewri manufacturing. In the ambient room temperature in the workshop ranging between a comfortable 10°C to 26°C, the crystal forming process of the products is perfect. In fact, it is the size and quantity of the sugar crystals in the finished product which are determining factors of its crispness and ‘particular taste’. The taste is particular to some of the manufacturers. Only the short length crystals make the rewri products crispy under the teeth and melty in the mouth. The quality of rewri also differs from one to the other manufacturer.

Not all can manufacture crisp or khasta rewris and gajjak. The duration of goading and beating, the temperature and viscocity of the sugar paste, the pulling of the lump, and the timing of the stage of mixing and pressing of til onto it are the determining factors of the quality. Above it, the foremost is perseverence and honesty to desist adulteration. Tek Chand Saini, now 65, nostalgically recalls of having remained an apprentice for eight years under Gannu Halwai who taught him the art of rewri making. Tek Chand later left to learn more under other independentally run workshops in the neighbourhood. About a dozen workshops would run in those times.

Amidst such situation, Tek Chand thought of setting up his own venture. He selected a companion and set up a small manufactory in Saraan-Mohalla in 1950. Though Tek Chand had honed his skills by then, there was little to innovate. His moderate beginning in an offbeat shop at downtown Saraan Mohalla did not attract much trade. But he stuck on. On the other hand, Gillu, son of Sheonath baniya, joined hands with Jamini. Together they set up business at Hardwar and Delhi. Unfazed by lack of public response at both the places, Gillu returned to the alleys of Kewalganj in Rohtak.

In the traditional milieu of Barra Bazaar, Gillu set up an independent workshop. The business rolled on idly for a few years until the Partition of the country. The historical event proved to be a turning point in the manufacturing and trading of rewri and gajjak. Jamini migrated to Pakistan. But, among the rewriwallahs, he is still a sort of legendary father-figure. Like others, Gillu’s business remained dull until the 1950s when the graph began to rise. Gillu refurbished his shop, employed more manpower and adopted a brand name. By then, about a dozen rewri manufactories had come up.

In early seventies, some innovations in manufacturing practice became visible. The platter shape of rewri was squeezed to become button-shaped. Gajjakpatti was pressed in a couple of ways. Sales picked up as more people joined the trade. Skilled workforce in this trade traditionally comes from the local Saini community. Modern packaging techniques were unknown in those days. Large quantities could be packed in bamboo baskets brought in lots, initially from Delhi and later from Agra, where petha mithai sellers continue to use them even now.

Rewri manufacturing got a quantum leap only around mid seventies when half a dozen variants were introduced by adding natural flavours and using dry fruits and nuts as adjuvants. Apart from original rewris, items like stuffed rolls of various shapes and styles and simple and pista gajjakpattis are offered to customers. The principle ingredients in these products are gur and til.

The labour-intensive, innovated new rewri products are very popular these days and the total production in Rohtak alone in the winter months is around 30,000 quintals. In the 1950s, the production could hardly exceed the three-quintal a day mark. The average rates of the items may be misleading but it is a good indicator to assess the value of rewri produced during one season. This cottage industry has a turnover of around Rs 25-30 lakh.

Although half the quantity is manufactured alone by Sheonath’s descendants, they could not monopolise the trade in the face of stiff competition and quality control exercised by a couple of others, especially Tek Chand Saini & Sons.

The rate of the items depends upon the quality and freshness of the product. The shelflife of these products is two-three months. The rates range from a lowly Rs 30 per kg to a whopping Rs 140. The best quality product is sold at over Rs 100 per kg. "The profits are marginal", say Tek Chand and adds that "most of it is reinvested".

"Whatever the profits", he says "they would not have accrued had the members of one’s family not been deployed on the shop floor."

A skilled workman’s monthly wages in this cottage industry may also vary between Rs 4,000 and Rs 6,000. Tek Chand, who recently retired from active business after a 50-year stint, says, "There is stiff competition in the trading of rewris now."