Gamberpul: In tune with nature
Getaway
By Baljit Singh

WITH the focus of commerce on the main highways, the ‘lesser’ roads are usually ignored. While these roads usually have a less-than-ideal surface, as some even lack berms, they are, nevertheless, idyllic routes for the traveller who wishes to be out of the urban sprawl quickly. Similarly destinations along them though less fancy, are also less crowded, and more in tune with nature.

Gamberpul (at a height of 692 metres), less than 70 km from Chandigarh, is one such destination. At first sight little more than a bend in the Shimla river (it exits from near Shimla) it still manages to pack in enough for an enjoyable weekend.The green waters of the river are clear and relatively clean, at least in spots not in the immediate vicinity of human habitation. There are several deep pools for splashing around in and even swimming a few strokes, and enough fish to keep anglers occupied.

The almost deserted road to the old bridge, a km away, provides a scenic walkway. The temple under it is restful to the spiritually inclined. Some distance further is a picturesque waterfall.

A single glass and concrete hotel with just 10 rooms (rates Rs 200-500, but you can usually beat down the price, specially if you are the only people in town) and a restaurant overlooking the river limits the size of the tourist population. The hotel itself is clean though lack of patronage has already begun to take its toll. Though the hotel has been around for two years, the village is untouched by the tourism boom of the highway towns. While this means the population is more hospitable, it also means that it is more conservative and visitors would do well to tread softly.

There are a few shops stocking basic supplies and groceries, and dhabas catering to the local bus service to Subathu.

For more fancy shopping, Subathu, 7 km and an entire climatic zone away, provides a refreshing change. Kunihar, an amazingly flat plateau at 4000 feet and 8 km away from Subathu-Sailaghat road, is an interesting day destination with a colourful but dusty little bazar and an interesting limestone cave and Shiva temple. The poor accommodation at Kunihar, just one PWD guest house with three sets, deters one from staying longer.

Dhami on the same road, a few kilometres from Sailaghat, is another scenic spot worth a visit. With a climate and height akin to Shimla, plenty of water, and no tourists it is a little slice of paradise. It, however, doesn’t get very cold at night in this paradise. Dhami has just one PWD rest house with four sets.

Access to Gamberpul from Chandigarh is either via Dharampur, (via the Subathu turnoff on the Shimla road) or through Barotiwala on to Subathu and down to Gamberpul. The latter route is a few kilometres shorter and less crowded but tricky during the rains when runoff from the nearby hills has right of way. The best time to visit is from autumn, when nature has done its annual operation clean-up, to April. In the dry summer, Gamberpul is hot and the river depleted.