Yol: Once a
haven for prisoners of war
By Rajendra
Rajan
ONCE a tiny principality of a few
hamlets. Yol today is a small township bustling with
life. The old grey buildings with coloured rooftops
provide a glimpse of the British style of architecture.
The beautiful heritage can be seen protruding from the
relatively dense green cover. The mighty and picturesque
Dhauladhars in the backdrop lend an idyllic charm to the
town.
Yol is situated at the
foothills of the Dhauladhars and has attained a
prestigious place in the annals of Indo-British history.
The town is about 10 km from Dharamsala. The neat and
clean environs of Yol are one of its most striking
features. The Army formations, over the years, have
preserved the pristine glory of the place.
A peep into the history of
Yol will reveal that prior to 40s, the area surrounding
the town was called Mujetha Ka Balla. In local parlance,
it means a barren land where munj grass grew. The
green pastures covering the foothills of the Dhauladhar
range were used by local shepherds for grazing their
cattle. The paths used by the shepherds for grazing
cattle were known as jhoel. A small brook was
called khol. When the Britishers lodged the
Italian prisoners of war in Yol in 1942, the area started
becoming popular. In addition to the Italian POWs,
political and other prisoners were also lodged here.
Italian POWs first used Yol as an abbreviation of Your
Own Lines. Later, when the Army formations started making
the place their base, it acquired a new name Young
Officers Leave Camp.
In olden times, Yol and
its adjoining villages were called Papi Nagri. According
to a legend, the king of the area fell in love with a
damsel. The girl, however, did not want to marry him. He
tried to abduct her, but she ran away and transformed
herself into a rock near a temple at Narwana.
Later, a huge landslide
caused a lot of destruction in the area. A number of
villages were destroyed by the landslide.
Yol has a strong
connection with World War II. More than 11,000 Italian
prisoners of war were brought and confined here by the
British rulers. The POWs were captured by the British
army from different parts of the world. Apart from
soldiers, the prisoners included doctors, professors and
writers. The camp was set up in 1942 on the slopes
between Khas-Yol and Narwana villages. The barracks built
for the POWs were spread over 770 acres. Mostly wood was
used for the construction of these barracks. The camp was
set up in a record time of six months. The construction
work started in April 1941 and was completed in October
in the same year. It was an ideal place for the POWs, as
the Italians soon acclimatised to the cold climes of Yol.
Almost all the barracks
and other buildings constructed during the 40s at Yol
have withstood the onslaught of weather and time. The
barracks at Yol are a legacy of the British rule in
India. Today, these stand as a mute witness to the
memories of thousands of POWs who spent over four years
there. The entire stretch of about 10 km between
Dharamsala and Yol is replete with numerous stories and
legends about the lifestyle of Italian POWs. They were
lodged in four camps and one of the commandants
(appointed out of the POWs themselves) was Chachera
Lavera. He used to exercise strict control over the
movements of other prisoners. However, it is said that
almost all prisoners of war, except the hardcore ones,
had the full liberty to move around. They were free to
roam around and could even walk miles together on the
outskirsts of the camp. It is heartening to note that
they enjoyed their stay in India though they
were thousands of miles away from their country.
Eightyeight-year-old
Vidyawati Thapa, a resident of Dari village near
Dharamsala, spoke of an Italian POW who got friendly with
her husband, Ram Kishan Thapa. The Italian often visited
their house and cooked food for himself in the courtyard
of their house. He cooked in a makeshift hearth. "My
husband developed gout in his right foot. The Italian
brought medicine for him from the camp and soon my
husband was cured. I have forgotten his name, but he had
got close to our family. Despite the language problem,
many a POW succeeded in developing good family relations
with the locals. So much so that a few POWs got a piece
of land leased out for themselves to grow vegetables,
with only a verbal understanding. I have seen two
Italians growing tomatoes in one of the fields at Dari
village. I feel they were not happy with the food served
to them in the camp."
Ninetytwo-year-old
Brigadier (retd) Sher Jung Thapa has also closely watched
the activities of POWs in Yol. He says, "I saw a few
POWs selling their rugs to get Indian currency. They
would even sell fruits given to them in ration. They
reportedly even went to the extent of brewing local
liquor within the four walls of their camp. Their
frequent visits to the villages evoked a lot of anxiety
and inquisitiveness among the locals. Mostly, I saw them
in a holiday mood, as if they had come to India for a
picnic. They behaved like tourists and resentment or
remorse about their being away from their homeland eluded
their faces. I remember that two POWs had deserted the
camp and they crossed over to Tibet and one of them later
wrote a book on Tibet."
It is believed that one of
the prisoners tried to escape by jumping over the
stockade. But he was soon shot dead by British soldiers.
The dead Italian was buried outside the stockade and a
stone slab was erected, with an inscription in Italian
that said, "I fell here". The lone grave of the
Italian POW can still be seen inside Yol cantonment.
While on the one hand it
is said that POWs at Yol had freedom to roam around
without fear, on the other hand separate barracks for
hardcore prisoners were created within the camp. They
were isolated and kept in enclosed barracks surrounded by
a high wall, called stockade. A huge rock with iron
chains inside the Army formation is still intact. It is
believed that hardcore POWs and Indian political
prisoners were tortured there.
One of the most notable
remnants is a memorial erected by the POWs. It was raised
with the help of locally available slates. No cement or
mortar has been used to build the memorial. A pair of big
slates atop symbolises the freedom that Italian prisoners
kept yearning for. At the centre of the memorial there is
an inscription written on a big grey slate and tied with
chains. It states: "The rather uncommon stone relic
was made by the Italian prisoners housed in the Yol POW
camp from 1941 to 1946. The topmost pair of stones are
symbolic of mens unsatiated thirst for freedom,
depicted here as a pair of wings of a bird, struggling to
free itself from captivity. The rest of the structure
represents prison walls.... This beautiful idea enshrines
the tribute which this band of Italians, although
captives, left behind this emblem of human spirit, for
posterity to uphold and emulate.... To this day it stands
undisturbed by fellow soldiers and spared even by the
unforging fury of both nature and time."
The authorities at Yol
Camp had also made arrangements for the entertainment of
POWs. Sham Lal Maini, a leading industrialist, financer
and distributor of Indian films in the forties, was
instrumental in opening the first cinema hall at Yol
Camp. Indian and Foreign films were shown to the POWs in
batches as the capacity of the cinema hall was small and
only 200 persons could be accommodated.
Another building of
historical importance near Yol is "Phansighar"
and is situated in Tokabani village. Today, Phansighar is
in a dilapidated condition and has been encroached upon
by villagers. They use it as a cowshed. Though locals
call it Phansighar, it appears to be a dumping place for
garbage. How this building, made from pucca
bricks, came to be known as Phansighar remains a mystery.
Yol Camp was used as a
refugee camp for rehabilitating people uprooted from
western Pakistan after Independence of the country. More
than 20,000 refugees had taken shelter at the camp.
According to locals, once a dispute between the refugees
led to police firing in which some refugees and one
police officer was killed. In 1947-48, a part of Yol Camp
was used by the Jammu and Kashmir militia as a training
centre. After shifting the militia camp, a part of Yol
Camp was given to an Army unit in 1957. Gradually, the
refugees were taken out of Yol Camp and settled in other
parts of Kangra district. Most of them have settled in
the Narwana, Sidhwari, Dharamsala region, and Yol.
The entire belt of 10 km
between Dharamsala and Yol has been covered by haphazard
constructions. The mushrooming of pucca houses
with cement rooftops are in fact not in harmony with the
hill architecture. However, a quaint mixture of old hill
architecture with slates, rooftops and concrete housing
structures can be seen from Dharamsala up to the Yol
cantonment.
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