of Europe

By Dinesh Kumar

Switzerland is popularly known as the playground of Europe. It is easy to see why. As the plane prepares to land at Zurich, there is a dazzling display of beauty outside the window. The Swiss Alps are pristine and untouched, with dazzling snow on the peaks which gives the impression of diamonds reflecting sunlight. Below, one sees lush green farmlands neatly cut into patterns.

Zurich is a city geared towards receiving tourists. Everyone is helpful and though the language is German, it is easy to find an English-speaking person who can guide you. First time visitors usually fear whether they will find a place to stay. Any fears of finding accommodation are dispelled at the airport itself. It seems that everything is arranged neatly for the tourist to make the visit enjoyable. A large display shows various hotels and their rates and a free telephone alongside makes you access them easily. They not only book your room but give you lucid instructions about reaching the place.

The train takes me from the airport to the Haupt Bahnhoff, the main station. This is Zurich at its best — polished floors, sparkling shopping malls, roadside cafes and beautiful girls. Colourful trams move in and out of streets. People are out shopping or sit in open-air cafes, watching the world go by. Tables are placed on pavements and that is what adds a unique charm. There are visitors from all over the world. I meet people from Croatia, Argentina, America and places which were only heard on radio and television. One couple is on holiday after spending several months clearing mines in Angola: it brings the human tragedy there right in front of me, better than any television programme.

My host is a lady who practices ayurveda. She lends me her spare flat and wants to know whether we use herbal products in India. I tell her that multinationals are everywhere and we are also becoming "modern"; she is disappointed to hear that.

The flat overlooks a small garden with bright tulips. Every house has a well-tended garden. It is the season for tulips and I cannot help but marvel at the hard work put in by the people to keep their homes in perfect order. The roads are clean and cars stop for pedestrians to pass. Everywhere colourful trams add charm to the city. On weekends one can take a special tram that offers candle-light dinner in a luxurious interior. The railway station is so clean that the platform could well be your drawing room.

"We have our problems too," says an environmental engineer I meet. "You must not forget that behind these polished floors there is a harsh reality. We have over 40,000 contaminated sites all over the country about which we do not know what to do."

He tells me some of the problems faced by the country. There is an industrial slowdown, though it is not apparent. People are prosperous, generally speaking, but their existence hinges on spending and owning more and more things. I tell him that Indians are trying to become the same and he has a hearty laugh. "The shopping malls are so seductive, we almost forget the real meaning of our existence."

Walking the streets of Zurich, one felt he could well be right. Huge shopping complexes beckon with tasteful displays. There are large stores for perfumes — and people seem to be buying them with gusto. The second type of shop that one finds are of fashion garments.

I do a quick calculation in my mind and find the prices well beyond a middle class Indian. Of course, while eating one has to forget the exchange rate otherwise one would simply have to go hungry.

Every city in Switzerland is built around a lake. Itake the boat for a trip around it. The Swiss Alps in the distance add a majestic charm. The buildings are modern and old, and each one has a colourful garden. There are lush parks and well kept and children play. On the east side of the lake university students lounge around, reading books, chatting or eating.

The city has its share of history. Statues dot its streets. Fountains stand at corners. Modern buildings merge with old brick mansions. The red Swiss flag is seen from many buildings and streets.

Switzerland is famous for its chocolates and cheese. One is reminded of this quite often. At a festival in summer, every shop commissions a sculpture of a cow with a motif on it which is proudly displayed outside. The sculptures represent the merchandise in some way. The American food chain, McDonald’s has four cows in the park opposite: they are named McDo, McRe, McMe and so on. Children can press a button and bells chime on the musical notes, which gives a pleasing sound in the entire park. Similarly, chocolates are available in plenty all over the country.

Switzerland is quite a different country in winters. People visit it from all over the world to ski on the pristine slopes. I take a train journey to Geneva where UN bodies have their headquarters and experience the luxury of travelling in a spotless Swiss train.

There is much that I want to do, but soon it is time to go. I am on my way to Oslo where I have a series of lectures to deliver.Igive my host a small elephant made from sandal wood.

She says she will always remember the Indian who visited her from the land whose medicine she practices.