Finding yourself in Izmir

Khursheed Dinshaw

A four-year-old walks up to an old woman, who is selling a cup of wheat. The little one buys one of these and gleefully runs towards the pigeons to feed them, her curly locks swaying from side to side in the cool breeze. Her indulgent mother smiles and clicks the daughter, who, by now, is surrounded by flapping pigeons. Such  scenes often unfold at the Konak Square at Izmir in Turkey. There is never a dull moment at Konak Square or Konak Meydani, the central square of Izmir. While kids and youngsters bond with the pigeons, the intricate 82 feet clock tower makes for a hot favourite for clicking selfies while the Yali or Konak Mosque is admired for its Kutahya tiles. The government office, another prominent building at the square, tells its own story of rising from the ashes like a phoenix. 

Idil Yazicioglu, one of Izmir’s most respected guides, explains, “Katipoglu Residence was Izmir’s first government office. It was demolished after it deteriorated to build a better one in 1869. Ron Vitali’s architectural prowess was roped in. All was well until 1970 when a massive fire broke out. The current government office was built as per the original plans.”

Konak Square is adjacent to the pier where the Aegean Sea and its varied hues beckon. A stroll along the pier, a brisk jog or bicycling in fresh and non-polluted air with the Aegean Sea for company is exactly what Mother Nature recommends for a recharge before heading to the Izmir History and Art Museum.

A date with history 

The Izmir History and Art Museum is located inside Kulturpark, which is a hub for concerts, exhibitions and theatre plays. Kulturpark also has a tartan track surrounded by 133 tree species. Can a museum get a more picturesque setting? You can get to learn that Izmir gets its name from Smyrna, a queen of the Amazons, the warrior women who cut their right breast to be able to stretch their bow further.

Divided into sections, the stone works display sculptures of archaic, classical, Hellenistic and Roman periods. The ceramic works section unfolds ceramics from the pre-historical period till the end of the Byzantine period. The section of precious works showcases coins, ancient jewellery, works made of bronze and glass, oil lamps and perfume bottles. If the museum displays artefacts, it is the Agora of Smyrna, which was the centre of administrative, political, judicial and commercial activities. Even today, one can see its vaulted basement stories, courtyard area and columns.

 Time out

On the exploration trail of Izmir, local dishes should be relished. While Konak Pier is lined with cafes and restaurants, Hilton Izmir and Kordon Hotels offer Turkish meals. Do try out the Turkish tea, which is served in see-through glasses with no side handles. You have to drink the beverage by holding the glass from top. Another must try is the kumru, another local snack sold at kiosks. Resembling a sandwich, the sliced bread has sesame seeds on both sides and is filled with tulum cheese, raw tomato and green chillies.

Izmir is a shopper’s delight and Kemeralti Market is a good option. Within its labyrinth, this 17th century market holds shops, cafes, mosques and synagogues. Walking through its cobbled lanes, one will be spoilt for choice in terms of souvenirs — be it the popular evil eye keychains and wall hangings, nuts and dried fruits, Turkish tea and coffee powder, olive oil and olives and clothes and accessories. Olive oil is used for cooking as it provides energy and flavour and also as a beauty aid. In Izmir, its branches are a symbol of peace.