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These
knives are in PACESETTER:
Jyoti Ann Burrett
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The bride now wears black Black
— The colour of dreaded magic, symbol of mourning, all things negative, dark and spooky, antonym of hope, mark of protest. Whatever other philosophical and sociological connotations it has always had, on the canvas of fashion, it has been there forever. It was the chosen one for Coco Chanel to create the classic Little Black Dress in 1920. It is a wardrobe crime to not have a shirt in black just like it is not to have one in white. On the runways of fashion that predict prêt trends, it has been there and done everything with. But couture, yes here is the catch; it was an unsaid rule to drop it from the colour palette as the bride assembled her trousseau in red, pink, yellow, orange, green…. But not anymore. It is the colour common in couture collections of all Indian fashion designers in the form of sarees, lehengas, shararas, anarkali, saree gowns, bandhgalas and other silhouettes apt for the bridal wear. As the curtains lifted for the BMW Indian Bridal Fashion Week with Tarun Tahiliani's show, the first creation to roll out of the wings was a black top, teamed with a high-waisted trouser in the same colour, accessorised with a heavily embellished black belt. And then followed a few more, making black the most put-to-use colour in the couturier's collection. Tarun says the dominance of black in the trousseau of Indian bride has happened gradually and it is not an abrupt change. "Now we celebrate weddings like never before. We have many more functions, bedsides the wedding day. There is a cocktail, a sangeet and a reception and the bride wants to look very different on each one," adds Tarun, who himself is seen more than often in black. He bets on the colour for that 'different' look. For the black lehenga that Shantanu-Nikhil presented as the part of festive wear collection at the LFW, they, too, credit the grandeur of present day weddings. "A black outfit has now become a staple to a red and beige wedding wear." Black befits the muse of Indian fashion designers, the modern Indian bride, who, they define as, well travelled, powerful, experimental and one who doesn't shy away from breaking conventions. If this year, Shane and Falguni Peacock created ornate blouses and jackets in black, last year, they sent their show stopper, Neha Dhupia in a black ensemble down the ramp. "It was a means to send across the message that the modern bride is ready for the colour black and that she no more follows the diktat of old world. She is done with superstitions and wants to look beautiful and sexy at the same time. Black effortlessly manages to do that." Presenting a black lehenga on the ramp is one thing but getting orders for the same is a different challenge altogether. And that is ultimate testimony if black has actually made from the ramp to the wardrobe or trousseau of the modern-day brides. From the collection, Manikarnama that Anju Modi presented at the India Couture Week, the black lehenga that Kangana Ranaut, showstopper for her show, strutted down the ramp brought maximum enquiries. "And surprisingly, 95 per cent of those got converted into orders," informs Modi. She further adds that colour black has become popular with fashion designers because there is a demand for it in the market. "There might not be a typical red or maroon in the collection, but you will definitely find beige and black in all trousseaus." The collection by designer duo sisters Gauri and Nainika, however, was an exception in that case. There was no beige or champagne (another most popular colour with designers) but ample of black besides white and red in what the designers termed was a red-carpet collection. "It's for the bride who wants to enjoy her cocktail bash, and instead of ethnic silhouettes, prefers contemporary ones. It also a symbol of being a follower of international trends," So there were gowns in black with a lot of peek-a-boo elements, asymmetric hemlines, high slits. "The bride, who won't mind experimenting with the colour palette, would also be ready for silhouettes that are out of the box." The major part of credit of introducing black to the couture collections goes to Gaurav Gupta, Varun Bahl (who can forget his 2012 couture collection, which had more than half the number of pieces in sheer black) and Shantanu and Nikhil. Their unapologetic use of black in their collections season after season is probably what brought about the change to the colour scheme that only had space for rani pink and red. Their saree gowns in black not just boasted of a newer silhouette, also of the colour that not many were ready to work with. For that matter, even Monisha Jaising had a role to play in changing buyers' perception towards black. Her black lehenga teamed with a white shirt and a traditional chura and kaliras conveyed the message that the bride, who is well-travelled, is ready to wear black on the D-day as well. Continuing with their endeavour to revive and popularise the traditional crafts of India, Meera and Muzzaffar Ali's couture collection had enough evidence of the same. From chikankari to zardosi to brocade to mukaish, these works lent grace to each piece, but those in black outshone the rest. "Black features each time in our collection not because we are in love with the new colour of the couture, but because it makes for the perfect background colour. It makes any embroidery and embellishment look exquisite," Meera cites the reason why black is now a part of most fashion designers' collection and brides' wardrobe. Raghavendra Rathore, too, adds a few pieces in black, either in terms of jackets or bandhgalas to his each collection. "Even the simplest of threadwork looks beautiful on black. This is one shade you don't have to try hard with. Minimal zardosi at the neck, seams or the hemline is enough to make it worthy of wearing on an important occasion." And now that weddings are not just about the wedding day, black will walk into a bride's trousseau.
Red carpet’s best friend
Who can forget Angelina Jolie's leg, peeping out of the high-slit gown, she wore a couple of years back and her recent black tuxedo experiment at an awards event. Black has been a favourite with actors in Hollywood and back home in Bollywood as well. Off the red carpet and besides the wedding functions, in prêt too, black is the colour that all fashion designers love. At the recently concluded Lakme Fashion Week, Farah Sanjana's collection was all black, except for a one-odd powder pink creation, Asa Kazingmei experimental silhouettes were aptly complemented by the colour, Riddhi Mehra's Mystical Nuit was primarily in black with other colours being blue and beige. Pallavi Singhe limited her colour palette to black and white yet again. It's also a signature colour of many a celebrities. You see Karl Lagerfeld in black almost all the time. And it is the uniform colour of punk fashion.
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These knives are in Today, these might not be used for killing or hunting animals but their utility in kitchen and as an important part of the survival kit of adventure-seekers is paramount. Add to that their decorative appeal, which gives an amazing versatility to these sharp instruments. No wonder that knife collectors who till recently made for a very small group, is growing into an all-consuming passion for some. Shapes to vie for Knives come in various shapes and sizes and can be sorted out in different categories. There are folding knives, fixed-blade knives, double-blade knives, flick knives, table knives, survival knives and knives on stands that are meant to add appeal to the interiors. Till some years ago, ornamental knives were usually seen in the homes of people who have served in the defence forces. Today, these have gained a widespread interest and it is not uncommon to see these becoming the centrepiece of a room. These can be replicas of real hunting weapons or ornate-vintage knives made of gold and silver and studded with precious stones or even Swarovski crystals. These further add to the value of knives. Seen as an attractive version of their lackluster kitchen cousins, these fancy knives, displayed on stands or in frames, are the new style statement in the homes of the elite. After all, what could be a more appropriate gift than a well-designed and beautifully carved out knife which adds a touch of class to a room! Options galore Seeing the rising demand, a number of high-end gift shops have started to display an array of high-end varieties — from khukris to bush knives and from classical blades to fantasy daggers, all rendered harmless for decorative purposes. “Ornate vintage knives are big this year,” says Harish Dewan, a stockbroker by profession and a knife collector by hobby. However, he adds, the modern ones are also in great demand. Every knife that has fine craftsmanship and design will command a price in this niche market.” Leading knife-making companies like Gerber, Ka-Bar, Suntoku, Vicorinox and others are fast realising the collectors’ interest in ornamental knives and launching special editions. There are regular auctions and numerous websites devoted to the buying and selling of such knives. A pair of Indian silver-mounted hunting knives was auctioned recently by Christie’s for $3,309 (around Rs 1.99 lakh). A few months before that the same auction house had put under the hammer a grey-green jade knife sheath and a jade-handled Ming Dynasty knife. An unnamed collector had taken it home by paying a princely auction price of $23,750 (around Rs. 14.25 lakh). Value of an antique Leading auction houses like Bonhams and Ruby Lane and others dealing in antiques and art pieces have sites dedicated to knives that are a few decades to centuries old. “These are as priceless as say stamps or vintage coins. Most of them are lapped up almost immediately,” says Dewan, and adds, “Whenever an auction is announced you will find collectors thronging to that place. The bidding at times can be very fierce for rare pieces, which can pay rich dividends in subsequent auctions.” Though it may still not be as popular as philately or coin collection, the interest in knives, especially of the vintage variety, is growing. Knife collectors come from all walks of life, everyone from a common man to the CEO of a Fortune 500 company can be a collector. It is a hobby common around the globe and cuts through ages and cultural divides. Though some of the best knives are usually cornered by private collectors at these auctions, there are many enthusiasts who are converting it into a lucrative business proposition. Knife collecting can be a rewarding activity and fetch big bucks not just in auctions but also on websites like ebay, Craigslist and others which list out a variety of offers on a daily basis. Interestingly every kind of knife usually finds itself a buyer. For knife collectors, some of the most sought-after brands include Gerber, Bushcraft, Elsee, Flamelock, Buck, Camillus, Case, Queen, Remington, Schrade and Victorinox. Although not the oldest knife manufacturer, Case is perhaps the most widely collected. Founded in 1889, this New York company’s unique selling point was that it stamped the words “Case XX” or “Case XX Tested” on the tangs of its master blades, which made these stand out as the best knives of the 20th century and the most sought-after vintage knives in the present times. If you too have a vintage piece that your grandparents gifted you, pull it out. With so many collectors’ websites popping up, chances are you could have a lucrative opportunity to make money by selling old knives or family daggers and make an unexpected windfall! It’s never late to pull out an old knife, what you thought is of no use.
On the collector’s list
Sturdy structure
Rich history
A cutting edge
Easy to carry
Dual purpose
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PACESETTER: Jyoti Ann Burrett A young player in the Indian women’s football squad shares the story of her passion for sports and what it takes to be a champion against all odds Swati Rai Twentythree-year-old Jyoti Ann Burrett, playing in the forward position in the Indian women’s football team is a sprightly girl, who listened to her heart over going the corporate careerway to follow quite literally — her ‘goal’! Jyoti has a Master’s degree in Sports and Health Science from University of Exeter, UK, and when off the field, Jyoti works as a fitness trainer in a Delhi gym, an unusual profession for women. Presently she is attending the training camp for the forthcoming Asian Games in Incheon, South Korea. Jyoti, who had played with the Tottenham Hotspur women’s team in London, admits to ‘being a juggler who became a footballer’. Talking about how it all began, Jyoti says, “After I watched the 2002 World Cup. I was intrigued by ball control. The idea of juggling was exciting and I decided to give it a try. By the time I went to college in 2007, I was a reasonably fancy juggler and could easily juggle the ball 600-700 times at a go. A couple of boys from college and encouraged me to start playing with them for fun.” What started as a harmless juggling and passing of the ball, soon resulted in Jyoti’s selection in the Delhi state team for the nationals in Tamil Nadu. After that there was no stopping Jyoti, who played for three years in the running for Delhi while in college. “After that, I played for my university team during my Masters in Exeter. On returning to India in 2013, I was called up for the national team selection trials in Pune. Never in my wildest dreams had I imagined I would ever make the final squad and play for India!” The rest, as they say, is history. Jyoti is hopeful of the changes in the sports scene in the country per se. “A Delhi league has started and we had senior nationals earlier this year in Assam.” Talking about the good and bad about the facilities for sports, she says, “The infrastructure is great at the top level, but this needs to be available to players at all levels of the game, right from the grassroots up. Football grounds should be well maintained and available for use. Finding a place to play is sometimes the hardest thing!” Elaborating on the term ‘grassroots level’, Jyoti emphasises the need to introduce sports in schools. “Schools should encourage girls’ football and give them the right coaching and facilities. I find a lot of schools don’t offer football as a sport to its girls. For those out of school, there need to be clubs which bring people together to play. Family support and encouragement is a huge boost and can greatly influence how far one goes with sport.” Jyoti was lucky to have got support from her father and brother at home but she admits most others are not so fortunate. “I find boys getting this support while it is often lacking with the girls. Parents should feel even prouder seeing their daughters excel in sport because they’re choosing to do something off the beaten track. Sports is tough, physically, mentally and emotionally and they’re choosing ‘tough’ over ‘easy’ despite all the odds.” Passion, grit, hard work and some luck, according to Jyoti, make for a good sportsperson. As a parting message to the sportswomen in India, Jyoti recommends, “Stick to the sport you love and don’t let anything come between you and the dream you set for yourself. Train hard, push yourself to the limit but never forget to enjoy what you’re doing. Remind yourself why you first chose to play a game, because you thought it would be fun!” All one can say is Amen!
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Bling it on
a vintage toast
Playful dining The balls, racks and cues are contained in a compartment under the table, so these do not get in the way when it’s dinner time. The table can also be height-adjusted so you can play pool or eat comfortably. In a limited edition of 99, these tables are a great solution for adding practicality and a dash of fun to a dinner party.
Coffee on the go
Smartwatch for a smart drive
The right moves
Something up the sleeve
Low-flying bike
Sling bling And with his 2014 collection of calfskin crossbody shoulder slings,
he is sure to be counting many more stars as his clients. The small and nifty leather bag, which is available in many colours, is oval-shaped and stitch-embossed with the classic Valentino logo and comes with a long leather sling. The bag has created a fashion stir and is being seen on numerous red carpet events, which is a sure sign of its amazing popularity.
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Swati
Rai
This Skull Wing pocket knife is as attractive as it is lethal. It has a demon skull bolster, with a pewter coloured handle and that's shaped like a raptor’s wing. Just pull on the skull to open the stainless steel blade. Featuring liner-lock design with thin profile that slides easily into the front pocket, the seven-inch knife is a collector’s item.
Ideal for adventurers
To ornate your indoors
world, the Ka-Bar Marine Corps fighting knife was designed to serve American troops during World War II. It is still doing its job with honour almost seven decades later. However, it has now also become the favourite of campers for its sturdy built and razor sharpness.
birch handle and genuine leather sheath. The handle comes with a finger guard to help keep your hand off the extremely sharp edge.
A lasting grip
Motif to look for
The Bushcraft field knife will make you feel secure on any outdoor adventure trip. Designed with full tang construction, this field knife features a walnut handle and a stainless steel blade. It has a brushed-satin finish and has a blade length of five inches and handle length of more than five inches, making it a handy tool.
Display it well
Strong and durable
ultimate in survival gear for adventure seekers.
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