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A drive of over 100 km from Ahmedabad leads you into the quaint town of Mehsana, famous for the magnificent Sun Temple built by the great Solanki rulers. This temple, much like the sun temples at Konark, Orissa and Martand, Kashmir; seems undiminished by the ravages of history. It is situated on the banks of the river Pushpavati, amid verdant fields. The legend goes that after vanquishing Ravana, Lord Rama performed a yajna here to absolve himself of the sin of killing a brahmin. Rama built a Modherak which subsequently came to be known as Modhera. The Sun Temple at
Modhera was built as a grand offering to the sun god under the
patronage of Suryavanshi King Bhimdev of the Solanki dynasty. The
temple was built in a way that the first rays of the sun fall on the
idol in the sabha mandap. The design and architecture of the
temple seems a journey through time with magnificently carved eons of
the Solanki period, (often called the golden period of Gujarat's
history), narrating legends of Modhera.
The exteriors of the temple are beautifully carved, with the base of the temple designed in the shape of an inverted lotus. Walking along a cobbled lane flanked by green lawns, one sees weather-battered pieces of stone idols piled together. On the left and on the right are two axially aligned intricately carved structures — the Sabha and Guda mandapas. The temple complex has one more integrated structure called the Surya kund. The kund and the passageway face east, built to welcome the first rays of the sun. And the entire structure floats on a plinth resembling a flowering lotus originally built to appear as a floral offering to the Sun god. Rama kund or Surya kund The Surya kund is the temple tank and it is axially aligned with the two mandapas; the Tropic of Cancer passes through the heart of the three structures. This is an interesting interplay of geometric patterns, laced with pyramid-shaped stairs which take you down to the water level. There are more than hundred miniature shrines carved in between the steps of the tank. Twice every year, on the days of the March and the September equinoxes, the sun rays glide over the Surya kund, pass through the arches of the music-hall, pierce the entrance to the main chamber or Guda mandap, and illuminate the sanctum, where the idol once stood. The idol is long gone, but the thought and engineering with which the entire temple was built that Sun rays fall on a pre-decided date on the idol is exhilarating. A flight of stairs from the Surya kund leads you up to a toran or a pair of tall stone pillars forming a gateway (actually an archway with the arch missing) which leads you to the Sabha mandap. The Sabha mandap is a structure with an octagonal form with 52 pillars (equal to the number of weeks in a year) with carvings depicting scenes from epics like the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. As you exit the Sabha mandap, you enter the Guda mandap which houses the main idol. There is an air of mystery about the dark mandap which has a huge dome barely visible in the evening. The mandap is peristylar with an octagonal nave beneath the dome. The inside walls are bare but broken by niches in each bay with idols of the Sun god. The plain walls are more than compensated by the exquisitely carved pillars and the architraves portraying scenes from the Ramayana. The Garbhagriha or the sanctum sanctorum (place where the main idol used to be seated) is sealed as it opens to a deep trench which according to popular belief was filled with gold coins and on it sat the gold idol of Arka Deva on his chariot of eight horses. Between the outer walls of the temple and the sanctum is a passage. On the left side of the passage lies a hidden doorway to a tunnel which supposedly leads to the Rani ki Vav in Patan, some 25 km from the temple. Though in ruins, the
temple retains its grandeur and remains a beautiful sight to behold.
Fact file How to go: Modhera can be a day trip from Ahmedabad. There are direct buses and trains. Taxis can also be hired approximately at a cost of Rs 2500 for the round trip. What to eat: Either carry packed food or eat at Mehsana. Modhera being a small village doesn't have many options. But do try some typical Gujarati dhabas on the way or at Patan. There are some good restaurants at Mehsana, serving the authentic Gujarati plate. Accommodation: A government guest house is available in the vicinity of the Sun Temple. Mehsana offers better accommodation facilities. Best time to visit: January, when the Modhera dance festival is organised. Otherwise, any time after first rains is good time. What to buy: Modhera doesn't have any shopping options. However, Patan, only 25 km from here, is known for Patola silk sarees. These sarees are woven using Ikat technique in which the threads are tied and dyed before weaving to create the pattern . Modhera dance festival: The Tourism Department of Gujarat organises a three-day classical dance festival in Modhera in the third week of January, post Uttarayan. The performances are held in the Sabha Mandapa. Places around: Rani ki Vaav at Patan is just 25 km away. It was recently granted the status of a Unesco world heritage status.
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