New colours of matrimony
Ashima S Batish
The modern Indian bride was the muse for most designers at the India Couture Week. Only if it had more surprises
The pendulum of fashion constantly oscillates between the past and present. It’s especially true for couture that travels back in time, seeks inspirations, picks motifs, gathers ideas and on the way back sieves the best from the rest. It happened yet again, at this year’s edition of Fashion and Design Council of India, Shree Raj Mahal Jewellers India Couture Week, where vintage and classic art and embroidery forms were beautifully whipped with opulence. Only novelty did the Houdini’s act!

Sabyasachi had floral-printed jackets, with 18-carat gold buttons for men
Sabyasachi had floral-printed jackets, with 18-carat gold buttons for men

Demure is out, meet the power bride
If the credits of the directors and makers of the Indian fashion industry were to roll down a screen, it would begin with the couturiers of the country. It is them who introduced the Indian embroideries to the world, interspersed them with contemporary silhouettes to increase the consumption internationally. Even now, each time, Rohit Bal, Manish Malhotra, Sabyasachi and the likes make a ramp outing with their collections, fashion followers sit up and take notice. At the India Couture Week too, they were welcomed and applauded among others as they unveiled the couture trends for the season that spelt change for the bride, who is powerful and well-travelled. Here is a recce of the fashion week in pictures. — ASB



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New colours of matrimony
Ashima S Batish

The modern Indian bride was the muse for most designers at the India Couture Week. Only if it had more surprises

Monisha Jaising’s bride sports a black lehenga with a knotted white shirt
Monisha Jaising’s bride sports a black lehenga with a knotted white shirt

The pendulum of fashion constantly oscillates between the past and present. It’s especially true for couture that travels back in time, seeks inspirations, picks motifs, gathers ideas and on the way back sieves the best from the rest. It happened yet again, at this year’s edition of Fashion and Design Council of India, Shree Raj Mahal Jewellers India Couture Week, where vintage and classic art and embroidery forms were beautifully whipped with opulence. Only novelty did the Houdini’s act!

Woman with an edge

It’s been a while since the muse of the Indian fashion designers has remained a constant — their love affair with the modern Indian woman. They now construct clothes for a woman, who is well-travelled and edgy, or as Varun Bahl says, "powerful". Monisha Jaising’s collection’s World Bride was self-explanatory, dedicated to the woman heading for the destination wedding and is a globe trotter. The collection had a mix of silhouettes, from gowns (both printed and embroidered) to lehengas to leggings to saree gowns. Her show-stopper, Lisa Haydon walked the ramp in lehenga in contrasting colours of black and white, where in the choli was replaced by the knotted white shirt. The Indian connection was highlighted by the chura and kaliras she wore with the ensemble.

Fashion designer Varun Bahl continued with his tryst with black and sheer. In his collection India Moderne, he tossed the favourite ethnic wear of Indian women into their contempo rary versions. He did away with the kalis of the Anarkali, instead he kept the silhouette A line and added circular-cut patterns. He fused Indian and western wear in the form of saree-pant and lehenga gowns.

A change in store for men

If not as much as brides, grooms have garnered some importance in the last couple of years. At least those rolling out couture from the studios hold their new-found clients in high esteem. If Sabyasachi added colour to men’s wardrobe, Anju Modi made the structure of the clothes get easy, read dhotis that dominated the bottom-wear segment. Rohit Bal fragmented his collection for men into two, the first in all ivory, the designer’s signature colour and the other all colourful. The silhouettes, however, he remained impartial to in both cases. But it was Sabyasachi’s floral print-on-print bandhgala and sleeveless Nehru jackets embellished with 18-carat gold on male models with fluffy beards that might make men revise their D-day outfits.

On a different note

While others in the list made clothes that are beautiful, Manish Arora and Gaurav Gupta paved their own path that pledged edginess. Manish Arora’s full-on-bling, full-on-colour five capsule collections were also aimed to portray women who are powerful. He stuck to his plan of action, of bringing out the quirkiness in his creations, of creating his ever-favourite, psychedelic designs. To add to that further, gold-colour dominated ensembles were paired with headgears as quirky. There were gowns, lehengas, jackets, kurtis, bell-bottoms in his collection, which proved why is he has reached dizzying heights in his career.

Though not edgy on the face, Gaurav Gupta’s Wink of Nyx, Goddess of Night had elements of surprise, it was experimental in its own subtle way. There were gowns that had a slit at the waist, or near the cleavage, sarees interestingly paired with capes. Embroidery and structure of the gowns were so aesthetically balanced that each creation had an international appeal to it. If an Indian fashion designer does fusion best, it has to be Gaurav Gupta, always.

Vintage appeal

Even before boarding Sabyasachi’s luxury train for Ferozabad, the passenger-like fashion followers had a cue what the journey would be like. Vintage has been an essential feature of his last many collections and how we have loved it each time! This edition too, with sets of a luxury train that promised an old world charm, we lapped up the bullion thread work, block prints, 18 carat gold buttons, zardosi, crystals and bugle beads, appliqué work, Parsi and Kashmiri embroidery, bandhgala and trousers, sarees, lehengas, kurtas-churidaars, Nehru jackets, sherwanis, in beige, red, green, orange, pink.

For that matter, even Anju Modi’s collection, Manikarnama was aimed at evoking the past. The embroidery motifs were inspired from Ajanta-Ellora caves. Her designs bore a vintage stamp, especially in terms of silhouettes, which introduced the revamped dhoti once again. Even the colour scheme complemented the theme, with sepia and jewel tones colouring the larger part of the canvas. The subject was termed as, "Neo-Bride" when designs by Bollywood favourite designer Manish Malhotra took the centre stage. Titled, Portraits, he tried to frame the woman who has a modern outlook but takes pride in her heritage.

The subject was fancily termed, "Neo-Bride" when designs by Bollywood favourite designer Manish Malhotra took the centre stage. Titled, Portraits, he tried to frame the woman who has a modern outlook but takes pride in her heritage. To portray the same effectively, the designer this time took to Kashmiri zari and interpreted it in a contemporary way. It looked so vintage, so classic and so for the bride of today.

Let the past be past

There is no denying the fact that Sabyasachi knows how to create magic with clothes, that Anju Modi infuses life in age-old crafts and embroidery patterns, that Manish Arora gave birth to a new kid of fashion but haven’t we all seen that, known that forever now. Ferozabad was repetitive; it looked like an extension of his last collection Opium. Anju Modi’s Draupadi was far more tempting than Manikarnama because that had a fresh appeal; this was a like a sequel desperate to make the same impact. And Manish Arora’s was interesting, intriguing, it even got a standing ovation but was new enough. As for Rina Dhaka, her collection didn’t have much to offer.

Novelty was the only casualty at the fashion week.

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Demure is out, meet the power bride

If the credits of the directors and makers of the Indian fashion industry were to roll down a screen, it would begin with the couturiers of the country. It is them who introduced the Indian embroideries to the world, interspersed them with contemporary silhouettes to increase the consumption internationally. Even now, each time, Rohit Bal, Manish Malhotra, Sabyasachi and the likes make a ramp outing with their collections, fashion followers sit up and take notice. At the India Couture Week too, they were welcomed and applauded among others as they unveiled the couture trends for the season that spelt change for the bride, who is powerful and well-travelled. Here is a recce of the fashion week in pictures. — ASB


Manish Malhotra
USP: He makes the most commercially viable clothes. And they are exquisite, always.
Verdict: He made the vintage red and Kashmiri Zardosi, a combination to strive for. It would be every bride's dream wear.
Rina Dhaka
USP: Each time she picks up a traditional Indian embroidery and gives it an interesting twist.
Verdict: She has got damp reviews for her collection, especially when she raised the bar with her last collection.
Varun Bahl
USP: He makes some of the best fusion wear in India.
Verdict: He gave a new shape to the Anarkali and continued using sheer in his creations. While he experimented with silhouttes, he continued using black extensively in his collection.

Rimple and Harpreet Narula
USP: The designer couple is dedicated to the cause of zardosi
Verdict: Their bridal wear will be on the wishlist of many brides to be this season.
Gaurav Gupta
USP: He knows how to create clothes that are sensuous. His designs are spotted at international red carpet events.
Verdict: The stitched, sexy version of sarees paired with capes was something not seen before. The collection was a winner.
Manish Arora
USP: His ability to make pop art and kitch look so Indian.
Verdict: The collection bore the designer's stamp. It was edgy, colourful, quirky and beautiful. Headgears were another interesting element. Each of the five capsule collections were so different from each other, yet the underlying designer’s signature was so apparent.
Photos: AFP

Anju Modi
USP: She makes ethic wear look so good on the modern Indian woman.
Verdict: It seemed a bit repetitive. After Draupadi, her last year's collection, expectations were a little too high.
Rohit Bal:
USP: His experiments with Indian muslin is a thing to follow.
Verdict: He proved how couture can look as spectacular in off white.
Sulakshana Monga
USP: Her designs take you back in time, when what women wore were pieces of art.
Verdict: Hues of pink and intricate embroideries on a range of Indian silhouettes made her collection worthy of a round of applause.

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Bling it on

EXPLORING A SUNKEN KINGDOM

First came the Burj Al Arab which was the world's first 7-Star hotel, this was followed by Burj Khalifa, which at 2,722 feet was the world's tallest skyscraper and then came the Lost Chambers an aquarium in Hotel Atlantis The Park with over 65,000 fish and other sea creatures. Indeed, it would appear that for Dubai no project is too outlandish. Now comes the news that the Emirate's latest project is a massive underwater theme park based on the Lost City of Atlantis. The Pearl of Dubai, as it is called, is being designed by the same people who created the sets of such Hollywood blockbusters as Avatar and the Pirates of the Caribbean. Developed on a massive scale, the park is set to be the largest and greenest sustainable underwater tourism site in the world. Visitors will have free reign of the underwater empire. They will be able to swim, snorkel or scuba to its depths and mimic the adrenaline rush of discovering a forgotten kingdom!
Cost of the underwater theme park: Not disclosed

CHARGING GOES WIRELESS

It's a device that is guaranteed to resolve the problem of constantly hunting for a phone charger. The Swich Wireless Charger is not just convenient but is also stylish and slick as far as looks go. It features a micro-suction charging platform with a viewer-friendly angle that can rotate from vertical to horizontal, allowing you to switch the orientation on your phone. It positions the device firmly enough for you to use all the buttons and slide over the touch screen, while your phone charges cordlessly. In addition, it boasts a ceramic base and platform, with a piece of walnut cut to resemble the shape of a wave in the middle, making it something you'll be proud to have on your desk. Price: Rs 8,400 ($140)

MASTERPIECE PENMANSHIP

It is more a piece of jewellery than a pen. Italian luxury watch company Montegrappa has unveiled a dazzling Centennial Dragon Collection of pens as part of the brand's 100th anniversary celebration. Though each pen is a work of art, the masterpiece of the collection is the one-of-a-kind Centennial Dragon Pen crafted from 18-carat solid gold and features 20.70 carats baguette-cut diamonds, 3.5 carats brilliant-cut diamonds and 14.0 carats coloured diamonds. It is also studded with rubies and pearls. But it should come with a serious word of caution-it is meant to be kept under lock and key and treated it like a family jewel-in fact the most priceless jewel of the family! Price: Rs 6 crore ($1 million)

DESIGNER BIKE

Time was when a bicycle was the humble way to travel and used by those who couldn't afford motorbikes or cars. Not any more. Today the bicycle rivals its mechanised counterparts in terms of price and technology. Take the case of X Mercian Fixed Gear Bike. A tie-up between high flying English designer Sir Paul Smith and bespoke cycling company Mercian, this is an incredibly sleek fixed-gear road bike which has been hand-crafted in matte-black, lightweight steel and fitted with a range of custom parts. Considering that the celebrated designer himself is a professional cyclist this bike promises a dream ride! Price: Rs 4.92 lakh ($8,200)

SOUND OF WOOD

Ever wondered why so many musical instruments are made of wood but most headphones are made of plastic or metal? The answer is elementary-plastic and metal are cheaper than wood. That's why true music connoisseurs are constantly in the quest of good quality wooden headphones. And that's where American music company LSTN gives you reason to rock. The headphones it makes not just look good but sound great as well. Their wooden chambers are a huge contributor to the warm and natural sounds and they come in a choice of natural beech, cherry and ebony wood colours. But the best part is that when you buy these speakers you will not just be listening to great music but will also be doing a great deed-subsidising the cost of a listening device for a hearing-impaired child. That ought to be music to your ears! Price: Rs 9,000 ($150)

FRAGRANCE No 1

Nothing can match the fragrance of British-born designer and perfumer Clive Christian's emblematic No.1 perfume which is celebrating its 15-year anniversary with a special limited edition. The collection is limited to 500 bottles each for men and women. The perfume comes in the company's signature crystal flacon bottle that has been lacquered white with gold detailing and has a distinctive gold stopper. Each bottle is individually numbered for exclusivity. The perfume is a highly concentrated spray and is composed with a richer, deeper concentration than the original making it a rare collector's item. Price: Rs 98,100 ($1,635) per 50 ml bottle

BOND WATCH

For over half a century men have been literally panting looking at his collection of cars, watches...and women! But it is James Bond's impeccably stylish watches that have been drawing attention of late. Since his first film Dr. No (1962) the British secret agent has adorned his wrist with some of the most expensive wrist watches including the Rolex Submariner (Sean Connery) and the Omega Seamaster (Daniel Craig). Now DreamChrono a website which claims to be the comprehensive encyclopaedia on watches has created an infograph highlighting the timepieces worn by different actors playing Agent 007. Go ahead and pick your favourite actor playing 007 and snag a watch for that Bond look! Price: Rolex Submariner-Starting around Rs 4 lakh & Omega Seamaster-Starting at Rs 4.50 lakh

This car’s ALL AT SEA

Modern-day advertising is going into uncharted territory. On an aircraft carrier, to be precise! BMW has released a new video titled Ultimate Racetrack showcasing the new M4 Coupe blazing around the deck of an aircraft carrier. The roar and thunder produced by the 431 hp and 3.0 litre Twin Power Turbo engine as it careens, screeches and performs death-defying manoeuvres is music to the ears of car lovers. It shows the driver's amazing skill behind the wheel making one hell of an ad film in the process. Check out the stunning video on YouTube even as you wait for the commercial launch of BMW M4 early next year.
Expected price of the car: Rs 39 lakh ($65,000)

GROOMING TURNS STYLISH

Move over electric shavers and fusion and hydro-blade razors. It's back to the basics as far as men's shaving goes. Italian cologne maker Acqua di Parma has launched a collection with a nostalgic allure. Comprising a high quality badger bristle brush, a razor with an African rosewood handle and a classic burnished brass stand, the set is designed to add retro elegance to modern grooming. The set combines the excellence of Italian craftsmanship with the pragmatism of ergonomic design. One of the finest shaving sets in recent times, the set's three hand-crafted luxe pieces are guaranteed to add a touch of class to any bathroom counter-top.
Price: Rs 40,200 ($670)

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