PACESETTER Rituparna Bose
Indian scientist unravels biodiversity mystery
Kolkata girl Rituparna Bose has developed mathematical algorithms that give the most specific estimates of biodiversity till date
Sujoy Dhar

rituparna Bose, 32, teaches at New York University. She recently identified a new fossil species in Michigan, a kind of ancient marine shells. Her work showed that the ancient biodiversity was underestimated. In fact, a greater diversity of life had existed in the past than has been previously appreciated, according to her findings. "There are around 5 to 30 million species of plants and animals today. One reason for such ambiguity in biodiversity numbers is that organisms have been historically classified based on visual assessment of external morphology ever since the days of Carl Linnaeus (1735). Organisms that looked different were grouped differently, and that was fine till now,"says Bose.

Her research demonstrated the shortcomings of such visual classification and highlighted the need of classification based on objective quantitative algorithms. Part of the work was presented at the North American Paleontological Convention. This is especially significant as the United Nations has declared 2011-2020 as the UN Decade of Biodiversity. Bose has been elected as a Fellow of the Paleontological Society of India and the prestigious Geological Society of London.

These findings were reported in Historical Biology and Pal`E4ontologische Zeitschrift, both journals on fossil science. One of the exciting findings of Bose's work along with David Polly was that scientists may have misestimated the number of species that existed in pre-historic times.

"My research has been published in several acclaimed palaeontology journals, including Palaios. My dissertation has also been selected for the best theses award by prominent publisher Springer and is being published in their ‘best of the best theses’ series," she informed. She is an alumuna of both Calcutta and Jadavpur Universities. "The first step to estimate biodiversity and extinction is a precise count of the number of species at a certain time. I have used my mathematical techniques to identify ancient species," Bose said. Her initial passion was mathematics which she used to understand biodiversity. While working on marine biodiversity, she also serendipitously discovered several unique physico-chemical parameters that are responsible for coastal pollution in the Sunderbans area in West Bengal, the habitat of the Royal Bengal Tiger. "This (coastal pollution) is why this big cat is rapidly disappearing," she said. The work has been published in Geochemistry International. Bose is also the editor of a much-anticipated book entitled Coastal Conservation and Sustainability, along with Prof Charles Finkl (President of Coastal Education and Research Foundation, an international organisation dedicated to coastal research), which is due to be published soon. She also serves on the editorial board of a few famous scholarly journals, including the Geological Journal and Bulletins of American Paleontology (Paleontological Research Institute, Cornell University). Bose’s work was funded by the Theodore Roosevelt Grant, awarded by the American Museum of Natural History and Dunbar-Schuchert Grant of Yale University

Bose is an adjunct faculty at the Department of Earth and Atmospheric Sciences at New York University. She is engaged in active research and is married to Arnab De, a microbiologist from Columbia University, who has also been her coworker.

CENTRESPREAD
Drape warmth this winter
The shawl is back as a major fashion statement. From a once humble wardrobe understudy, it is becoming the diva of winter fashion
Neerja Bahadur

THEY are calling it a drape. It can be wrapped around the body for warmth and snugness to ward off the winter chill. Though the drape shawl may appear to be far removed from the traditional shawl, it is making fashion waves this season. So is the stole made of exclusive material like the faux fur or mink and matched with a dress or a saree.

Shawl, stole, fling, poncho, and now drape, call it what you will but the rectangluar piece of cloth has never really gone out of fashion. This swathe of a fabric wraps around the shoulders and body not just to keep you cosy but is also an important fashion accessory.

Pashmina shawls

The look of the season is the pashmina shawl which is the softest and most luxurious wool in the world derived from the hair of the underbelly of the Himalayan goat called Capra Hircus. The hair is so warm that it keeps the goat protected against the freezing temperatures which can sometimes plummet to minus 50 degrees.

There are many variants of this natural material. There can be shawls made of 70 per cent pashmina and 30 per cent silk. Likewise, there can be various permutations and combinations with wool and other materials that are guaranteed to keep you warm and looking chic and smartly turned out all at the same time.

The amazing versatility and beauty of the shawl can be gauged from the fact that it can be draped anytime and for any event. Whether it is festive occasion or a marriage, or even a cocktail party, a smart shawl is an eminently elegant and graceful accessory.

Traditionally, artisans in Kashmir used three types of fibres — wool, pashmina and shahtoosh. However, shahtoosh, the legendary shawl that could pass through a finger ring, has been banned around the world as it was made from the fur of the chiru (Tibetan antelope), which is on the verge of extinction. Though illegal trade and hunting still goes on, fashionistas the world over have collectively come forward to say no to shahtoosh.

Embroidered jamawar

Kashmir is also known for its jamawar shawls that are usually made from pashmina, which has brocaded parts woven with silk threads. The embroidery sometimes is so fine that it is difficult to distinguish the front from the back. That is why the heavily embroidered jamawars are some of the most expensive shawls, and usually the preference of brides.

Usually a single jamawar shawl is made with as many as 250 colours. The intricate designs woven into the shawls have been passed down from generation to generation and it is these weavers who are responsible for keeping alive the intricate art of the jamawars.

Such is the demand for quality shawls and stoles that a number of companies in India have entered the realms of high fashion. Companies like Monte Carlo, Shingora, Cyntex, Rage, Sportsking, Marks & Spencer, Ezma and many more are launching multi-hued, classic and contemporary shawls to fit all sizes and budgets.

Take, for example, Oswal Woollen Mills’ brand Monte Carlo Fashions. As far as shawls go, it has something for all ages and tastes. Says executive editor Monica Oswal, "We have shawls for connoisseurs and also for those who want to combine elegance with warmth. Each of our piece exhibits superior craftsmanship and is a precious lifelong addition for the buyer and a special trousseau addition for the bride."

Contemporary & traditional

The Monte Carlo range has beautifully crafted shawls ranging from contemporary to traditional, stripes to checks, embroidered to printed ones. There’s an array of choices for everyone and its drape shawls are doing brisk business.

Besides Kashmir, the traditional hub of fine Indian shawls, other regions like Himachal Pradesh, too, produce excellent shawls woven in Kinnaur, Kullu and Chamba. Kinnauri shawls usually have geometric patterns and the colours depict the elements of nature — earth, wind, fire and water. Kullu shawls have floral designs and are made from local sheep wool or angora or yak wool. Shawls from Chamba are usually woollen and woven on handlooms. They have bright borders with traditional motifs.

Heritage status

Apart from Kashmir and Himachal Pradesh, practically every state of India produces its own traditional shawls, the designs and techniques for which have been passed on from one generation to another. Notable among the Indian designs are Kantha shawls, ususally made of silk, that form a part of the bride’s trousseau.

Today the variations of all these styles are proliferating on the ramps and on city streets. With the demand rising for high-end shawls, designers too are moving in and championing their versatility, anointing this once-humble wardrobe understudy as the unlikely diva of winter fashion.

KNOW YOUR SHAWL FROM YOUR SCARF What is it that differentiates a shawl from a stole? A simplistic answer is that these are basically the same except that these vary in length and shape. A shawl is usually rectangular-shaped and measures around 200 centimetres by 100 centimetres and is worn over shoulders, arms and upper body. A stole on the other hand, is narrower and worn over shoulders and arms and made of lighter material like silk , chiffon or faux fur and mink. A poncho is a single large piece of fabric designed to cover the whole body. Though it has been around for eons, designers have given it a modern spin. A cloak, like a poncho, is an outer garment that loosely drapes the body. It fastens at the neck or shoulder and can be hip length or up to the ankles. A cape is usually a long outer garment that has no sleeves and is fastened at the neck. Though Batman and Superman wore capes, today it is a fashion statement.

BLACK CASHMERE AND CHANTILLY LACE SHAWL The black cashmere and chantilly lace shawl is truly exquisite and luxurious. On offer at www.polyvore.com this is a hand spun and hand woven shawl that comes in delicate and beautiful floral patterns. Worn with soft neutrals it highlights the beauty of the lace and is elegant and sophisticated. Price: Rs 23,600 (£236)

KALAMKARI HAND EMBROIDERED ‘PALLEDAR’ SHAWL This extra long and elegant pashmina shawl with large pallas and kunjbutas from www.jaypore.com has been made by craftsmen imitating antique woven designs of the Dorukha Kashmir shawls of the 1860s. The embroidery has been done with wool taken from old pashmina shawls. Price: Rs 45,500

BLACK WOOL KASHMIRI SHAWL WITH HAND EMBROIDERY This gorgeous, black soft and luxurious pure wool Kashmiri shawl with needle-stitched hand embroidered multi-coloured paisleys and flowers in silk thread is on sale at the US-based Modesty Catalog. The 200 centimetres by 100 centimetres shawl is ideal for winter social events or festive occasions. Price: Rs 10,200 ($170)

SHINGORA LIGHTWEIGHT GRAPHIC STOLE The house of Shingora presents you this lightweight wool stole perfect for daywear. A graphic mix of textures and tainted glass patterns and teamed with a perfect understanding of drape, the 200 cms by 70 cms pure wool stole is contemporary and chic and a wardrobe essential for this chilly winters. Price: Rs 1,445

CANTERBURY HOUNDSTOOTH WOOLLEN SHAWL This charming black and white Canterbury Houndstooth woollen shawl from www.shopruthe.com crafted in soft fleece-like fabric is finished with a black hem and an oval-shaped cut-out at the neck for the perfect fit. Pair this stunning shawl with a simple black dress for a standout effect at a social do. Price: Rs 27,000 ($450)

CORDOVAN KASHMIRI PURE PASHMINA SHAWL This stunning hand-crafted Cordovan Kashmiri shawl on www.amazon.com is made of 100 per cent pure pashmina and has delicate embroidered paisley all over it. The shawl follows the vintage style of Kashmiri embroidery, which makes it not just luxurious but will also keep you warm and snug in winter. Price: Rs 1.68 lakh

PURE HANDLOOM WOOL AARI EMROIDERY SHAWL This shawl created by Kashmiri designer Syed Izaz Hussein in wool can be bought from www.accessories.novica.com. Flowers and paisley leaves in golden hue travel on sinuous vines all over the shawl. The shawl has been created by the aari embroidery technique executed by hand with a hook needle. Price: Rs 9,300 ($155)

BROWN HAND BEADED JAMAWAR WOOL SHAWL Add timeless luxury to your wardrobe with this hand-woven Jamawar shawl at www.sapristyle.com. This eye catching piece is in beautiful brown, burgundy and orange earth tones. It has swirling Kashmir Mughal paisley and floral motifs accented with precious beadwork making it a luxurious heirloom. Price: Rs 6,720 ($112)

PASHMINA KANI JAMAWAR PAISLEY DESIGN SHAWL This kani pashmina jamawar sold on www.jamawars.com is simply exquisite. These special shawls are woven on flat looms with the help of kanis, which are small eyeless bobbins used instead of the shuttle. These are woven into artistic paisley designs and stand out for their elegance and class. Price: Rs 30,000 ($500)

CASHMERE PASHMINA SHAWL WITH CREWEL EMBROIDERY This cashmere wrap offered on Amazon can be used as a shawl or a stole. The combination of 70 per cent pashmina and 30 per cent silk makes the fabric versatile, resilient and resonating with colour. The crewel embroidery is a fascinating needle art work, which is much sought after around the world. Price: Rs 21,000 ($350)

LOUIS VUITTON MONOGRAM SHINE LUREX SHAWL GOLD Compliment your shoulders with this luxurious monogram shawl from Louis Vuitton in an elegant shiny tone of metallic gold. A genuine retro piece offered on www.malleries.com, these pre-owned shine lurex shawls, scarves and stoles are high in demand and are snapped us whenever these appear in the market. Price: Rs 21,300 ($355)

VINTAGE SPANISH SILK EMBROIDERED SHAWL This is a dramatic and striking 1920s black Spanish silk shawl or the mantones de Manilla (as these popular shawls were called in Spain), it has extremely large, embroidered cerise-coloured floral designs with an intricately knotted 40-centimetres black silk fringe. It is on sale at www.salonofthedames.com Price: Rs 1.05 lakh ($1,675)