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Bag it PACESETTER
chirag Yadav Centrespread Bling it
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Bag it
India is one of the many countries where carry bags are free and are offered automatically with the purchase. Most of these are made of ordinary paper, plastic or polythene sacks which are handed out gratis with the stuff you buy. Designer makeover But times they are a-changing. A quiet and a new revolution is sweeping the branded consumer goods and apparel market and the humble carry bag is getting a designer makeover. Though it may still be a free giveaway with a purchase by most leading stores but there are some brands that have started charging money for their creative efforts. However, the emphasis here is not on the cost but the changing face of the carry bag. From the dull and plain shopping bag, it is now metamorphosing into a sleek and captivating carrier that is fit to be flaunted. It complements the buyer’s style and personality making him or her look trendy and stylish. Today, these bags came in a variety of designs, sizes and hues. The material used can range from imported art paper to eco-friendly jute, cotton, compostable bio-plastic material or even fabric recycled from alternate fibres. The difference here is that these are not crude variants of the earlier ones. A number of luxury brands invest a lot of design, thought, time and money into creating the exclusive bags, some of which are so striking enough to be virtual works of art.
Expensive proposition Though the customer may get these for free, these designer bags are an expensive proposition for the company. “We are provided printed sheets of paper with the company’s name and other elements of design. These have to be folded and glued in the shape of paper bags,” says Siddarth Pandey, programme manager with Centre for Urban and Regional Excellence (CURE) that trains economically backward women in the art of paper bag making so that they can earn a decent livelihood. The NGO charges its forwarding company between Rs 2 to Rs 2.50 for folding and gluing each paper bag. Pandey estimates that the end product may be costing the company Rs 10 to Rs 12 per bag though for many super luxury brands the expenses could be far more in excess of that. The cost includes paper, printing, folding and gluing. His NGO gives the final finish to carry bags of high-end brands like Nike, Marks & Spencer, Dominoes, Spark Shoes and many others. Instant eye-catchers However, most companies do not mind the expense. Apart from being instant eye-catchers, these carry bags are also a great source of advertising. “When customers walk out with a bag, it is a kind of an endorsement of the company’s product. This brings positive attention to the brands. It’s the best and most subtle product promotion,” says Rahul Mankotia, a brand consultant, who advises clients on the kind of bags to design. The designer carrier bag is a recent phenomenon and has largely come in with the arrival of overseas luxury brands like Gant, Jack & Jones, Prada, Promod, Roberto Cavalli, Tommy Hilfiger, Sephora and others. Every company makes a statement of style and good taste, which is fit enough to be swung from the wrist. However, now a number of Indian luxury retail outlets, too, have started designing bags for their high end customers. Names like Anokhi, Cottons, Kilol and other brands selling ethnic outfits are giving an eco-friendly twist to the carry bags by making their carry bags with environmental-friendly materials like jute, cotton and other biodegradable stuff. Iconic brands Visit any mall or upmarket shopping venue and you will see people carrying carrier bags of iconic brands. For some people such is the craze for these bags that it is reported that many leading global online retailing and auction sites are selling used shopping bags. Though most of them are priced under $10 (Rs 60), but there are some exclusive ones that can go for higher prices. The buyers are mainly young people who may not be able to afford the luxury products these companies sell but would like to flaunt a carrier bag to portray an impression of wealth and sophistication. There is also a thriving market for duplicates of designer bags. And like other counterfeits these may have their flaws but they also have hordes of buyers because of their cheap price tags. Counterfeit, used or original, the era of the designer carrier bag has arrived with a bang. Look around in malls, shopping arcades and popular market places and you will see people proudly swinging these bags which come in a rainbow of colours and designs.
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PACESETTER
chirag Yadav
chirag Yadav, a qualified Electronics Engineer in embedded systems, worked for six years as an engineer. Irregular incentives and lack of proper acknowledgement of his skills brought a kind of unrest in him. He tried changing location from Delhi to Bangalore, but the dissatisfaction from the kind of work he was doing remained. Having acquired the training of being a Salsero during college days, he tried running a Salsa company (Furor, earlier known as Salsa Bangalore). However, due to various reasons, he was motivated to go solo as a one-man army brand. After a couple of attempts in branding and marketing, Chirag started an activity centre called Chaipatty Activity Centre that was into hobby selection and teaching creative skills like photography, pottery, baking and painting. The idea was to offer a unique experience to people who want to step out from their mundane work lives to have a fresh whiff of air. Initially, it was being done in studios or coffee shops but soon Chirag decided to have his own space, a little more than a studio with some refreshments for the attendees of classes/workshops. Then was born Chaipatty Teafe. The menu is perfect to satisfy 4 pm hunger pangs. Maggi, pakodas, sandwiches, pastas, momos, kullad chai and an informal setting — enough to recharge the batteries. Chaipatty broke even with return on investment within just four months of its inception. It took him two months to think of the decor, set up preferences and an investment of Rs 3 to 4 lakh to begin with. It takes Rs 8 to 10 lakh investment to have a full-fledged kitchen and a seating arrangement for 30-40 people. Thanks to a website and Facebook presence, there was visibility. Newspaper articles, CNBS Youngturks feature and various blogs/videos on Chaipatty spread the word extensively. Chirag shares, “My basic profit would be 40-60 per cent, after removing salaries, rents and food and beverage buying costs. It could be more in some months but it totally depends on the level of involvement personally. That would help to cut costs and get the best performance from team and machines.” Chirag’s best partner is none other than his mother and together they keep a close watch on peak menu items, peak customer levels and even peak timings of each location. He had to close down three locations due to revenue-sharing expectation by property owners, team-poaching, manager mismanaging the setup and him being on the run to try more branches without stabilising the earlier ones. He wants to go slow but with assured steps. “We are not running for finding funding giants /investors as we feel it is important to have a good team/staff and good selection of expansion location first. In the future, Chirag dreams of having 100 outlets, including a few international ones too. He aspires to offer many activities, merchandise and unique products that one could buy from Chaipatty Teafe. He says, “Always believe in your passion and share it with one’s family and a good friend.” He feels that the feedback of customers is the best way to market and is more effective than a great website. He feels that sound running capability, solid knowledge on expansion strategy and a good backup equal success.
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CENTRESPREAD
Alas, the scarf is no more! This season it has been replaced by the collar. Welcome the arrival of fancy collars and embellished necklines. There are plenty of them adorning dresses and making a standout appearance. From the Peter Pan variety to the draped collar and from the detachable to the ruffle, petal, shawl, cowl and shearing collars, the list seems endless in the new couture season. An array of designs Leading brands, labels and designers suddenly have a new part of the couture to experiment with. And they are discovering an array of possibilities and designs. Some like Dolce and Gabbana have added elaborate beading and jewels to the collar. Armani has studded it with crystals and Gucci has given it the shawl look. British design house Love Moschino has lent a new respectability to the clown collar while Italian couture king Oscar de la Renta has crafted it in the shape of a beautiful petal. Many designers are busy enhancing the weekend style with the draped collar. Then, there are the detachable collars which give the wearer myriad sartorial options. These collars can be buttoned up on the shirt to give that extra dimension to the looks. The standalone ones come in pristine colour palettes and catchy prints. New style twist Avant-garde designers are also busy giving a twist to collar styles that border on the whimsical. British label Labour of Love has provided fashionistas a new style option with the one-side-collar top. French designer Jean Paul Gaultier has turned it around and put it at the back of the dress. American couturier Diane von Furstenberg creates elaborate knots and twists and turns the casual collar shirt into an outfit ready to wear for a night out. British designer Stella McCartney's long stand collar jacket is a wardrobe celebrity exhibiting fit, flair and femininity. The 1960s-style button-down collar popularised by style icons like Jackie Onassis and Sophia Loren is back with a bang. It has once again become the cornerstone of style, which is perfect for everything from a lazy Saturday evening meal to the corporate appearance. You could create the diametrically opposite look with the button-up collar, which has received a resounding thumbs-up from the A-list Hollywood celebrities in the current season. Surge in popularity The club collar with rounded edges too has seen a surge in popularity after television serials like Mad Men and 24. Popular in the 1920s, it has made a comeback with global labels like Louis Vuitton, Prada and Miu Miu shifting into the 1920s aesthetic with a contemporary edge. However, the big news of the season is the embellished collar that is adding the wow factor to plain outfits. Designers are adding elaborate beading, sequins, jewels and precious stones making it a standout part of the couture. The bling includes iridescent beads, pearls, crystals gemstones, diamonds and studs encrusted with precious rocks. Many designers have also added layers of elegant silver chains to the collar giving it a touch of royalty. These fun neckpieces give versatility to garments making eye-catching substitutes to conventional necklaces. It is indeed the season of collars which have been stealing the limelight at every couture show and their versatility can't be overstated. Collars of all shapes and sizes are not just limited to dresses and shirts but are turning up on trench coats, overcoats and pullovers. They are adorning sportswear, corporate couture and pepping up party fashions. They are an expression of elegance and spontaneity and best of all, as celebrated designer Coco Chanel once famously said, "Well-crafted collars draw eyes up to a woman's pretty face and away from any body parts she's less than proud about!"
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HOW
often do you shop at a designer store and actually buy the carry bag? “No, never. I don’t remember ever buying one. A carry bag is always free with most of the stuff that I buy. In fact, it’s my right to get one,” is the refrain most likely to be heard.
In the hands of leading German fashion designer Jil Sander, a carry bag is not a mere carry bag. It is a minimalist piece of art.
Time
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