Ittar is in
The history of ittar is as old as Indian civilisation itself yet the old-world charm of ittar continues to fascinate its connoisseurs even today
Mriganka Dadwal
Monsoon in a bottle, blossoms on your fingertips — it is not plain wishful thinking. Welcome to the world of ittar or attar. The name itself conjures images of royals — from Mughal emperors to Egyptian Pharaohs anointing themselves in a multitude of fragrances. In fact, ittar, a term derived from Arabic word attar means scent, and there is one for every season. So, you could beat the summer heat with cooling essence of rose (ruh-gulab) or khas, recreate the petrichor of dry earth consuming first monsoon showers with attar-gil (scent of earth) or simply snuggle up in the spicy warmth of ittar-hina on a cold winter evening.

Ring tone
A celebration of memorable moments during weddings and other ceremonial occasions, rings are also a fashion statement in themselves
Shobita Shivshankar
M
anish
is about to make one of the most important decisions of his life. He is on the verge of selecting an engagement ring for his bride-to-be Shweta. At a popular jewellery showroom in Delhi's South Extension, he has in front of him myriad choices.

PACESETTER Khushboo
Putting their lives back on track
Khushboo Jain is dedicated to changing the lives of poor children living on the New Delhi Railway Station
A. Rodrigues
Arvind is one of the six children of a poor family from Bengal. As a child, he was fed just once a day and toiled from morning to evening in his grandparent's fields. Frustrated by his wretched existence he ran away from home and landed at the New Delhi Railway Station. As he stepped out of the station and saw the bustling world, fear gripped his mind. Where would he go? What would he eat? Where would he sleep? He broke into a cold sweat and hurried back to the station where he sat in a corner and cried.

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Ittar is in
The history of ittar is as old as Indian civilisation itself yet the old-world charm of ittar continues to fascinate its connoisseurs even today
Mriganka Dadwal



Photos: Manas Ranjan Bhui

Monsoon in a bottle, blossoms on your fingertips — it is not plain wishful thinking. Welcome to the world of ittar or attar. The name itself conjures images of royals — from Mughal emperors to Egyptian Pharaohs anointing themselves in a multitude of fragrances. In fact, ittar, a term derived from Arabic word attar means scent, and there is one for every season. So, you could beat the summer heat with cooling essence of rose (ruh-gulab) or khas, recreate the petrichor of dry earth consuming first monsoon showers with attar-gil (scent of earth) or simply snuggle up in the spicy warmth of ittar-hina on a cold winter evening.

“Till almost a century back, nawabs and maharajas would have their quilt-makers mix 10 gm of hina with cotton to derive a lingering scent as well as warmth in the cold months,” narrates Mukul Gundhi, managing partner of old Delhi’s famous 193-year-old ittar shop Gulab Singh Johri Mal. History books mention that Mark Anthony had gifted his beautiful queen Cleopatra a perfume factory where she would concoct her own fragrances. Royal patronage may be a thing of bygone era but the old-world charm of ittar continues to fascinate its connoisseurs even today.

Ram Iyer, a Mumbai-based musician and perfume collector for last 20 years, has a vast collection of perfumes and ittars from all around the world. He says what gives ittar an advantage over modern day perfumes is its exclusivity. “Anyone can buy and flaunt a Davidoff or a Calvin Klein but hardcore perfume enthusiasts would want something that is their signature style — an extension of their persona.” Ittar can be customised as per a buyer’s taste and that is what makes it so unique.

Unlike modern day perfumes, pure ittar is an all-natural product derived from distilling flower extract over career oil like sandalwood. Whilst even a designer perfume can last only for a few hours thanks to its alcohol content, ittar notes last until you wash them off. In fact, as your body heat acts upon ittar oil, the notes become more pronounced with time. “What I really love about ittar is the fact that its scent stays in my clothes even after they have been washed. My friends often wonder what perfume I am wearing,” says 20-year-old mass media student Moushmi Suvarna.

Pure vs synthetic

While perfume collectors like Ram Iyer do not mind spending up to Rs 10,000 for a small vial of pure, custom-made ittar, college students like Moushmi prefer to indulge in synthetic ittars. Because pure ittars cost almost as much as and sometimes even more than international perfumes. A 10 ml bottle of pure ittar starts from somewhere around Rs 3,000. Same amount of synthetic ittar can be bought for as less as Rs 140. Explaining the difference between the two, Gundhi says, “Synthetic ittar is produced from aromatic chemicals. This ittar is not pure but nature identical.” However, it is still blended in oil and not alcohol resulting in a long lasting effect.

He further explains that these days many college-going youngsters flock his shop to buy synthetic ittars as these are inexpensive, “Youngsters want to be trendy but can’t spend too much so they come to us looking for knock offs of international perfume brands like Christian Dior.” Some of the hot-selling rip-offs include aqua notes based Blue Magic, Ice cool, Tehelka and Funtoosh — the names self explanatory of the target audience.

Commenting on the current trends in ittar market, Bangalore-based perfume expert Ahalya Matthan says, “Ittars are getting more and more modern with the use of synthetic ingredients and the range is vast from heavy single note fragrances to light contemporary fragrances. Moreover, when you buy and ittar is mixed in front of you, the process as much as the fragrance does the selling.”

The flip side of synthetic ittar is that it doesn’t have any of the medicinal properties associated with pure ittar but that is hardly a deterrent to someone on a shoe-string budget.

“Buying ittar is economical so I can wear a different one to college every day. My friends wonder how many perfumes have I got and it is better than smelling bad,” says Aishwarya, another student.

Ittar and aromatherapy

Anup Singh, a 37-year old film-maker, has fetish for ittar. He says every time he wants to get into the ‘creative zone’ he takes a sniff at attar-gil. “The aroma of wet earth inspires me to create. It clears my chakras as well as the flow of thought.” While he doesn’t apply the ittar often, he carries one with him at all times.

Experts agree that aromatherapy might be a relatively new concept in the western world but in India and Arabic world ittar has always been associated with healing properties. The essence of kewda, a flower originating in Orissa is said to relieve headaches as well as prevent heat stroke. Attar zafran (saffron) is believed to cure insomnia and depression while the sublime scent of rose attar could uplift one’s spirits and calm their nerves. Ittar hina — a combination of spices distilled over sandalwood is so hot, it is said to clear congestion and relieve cold.

Because of their therapeutic properties ittars are seasonal. While khas, kewda or jasmine is cooling in summers, one might want to avoid using them in cold winter months. Also, since there is no standard formula to produce ittar one has to be very careful about the brand they are buying. As perfume connoisseur, Ram Iyer warns, “Buying ittar is not always a pleasant experience specially when trying out new brands. Some of the cheap ittars can give you a bad headache as the notes break down.”

Arabic and Indian variants

In India, the city of Kannauj is considered the heartland of ittar. The perfume-capital of India, once patronised by the Mughal queen Noorjehan, is now struggling with obsolete ittar production methods. There are, however, establishments like Ajmal, Poorandas Ranchhooddas of Hyderabad, Sughadndco of Lucknow and Gulabsingh Johrimal of Chandani Chowk that still carry the legacy forward.

The packaging of ittars has also evolved over time and fragile handmade glass bottles have given way to beautiful but sturdy vials. Yet, Indian ittar market is lagging behind in terms of cutting edge packaging as compared to the Middle-Eastern countries. A look at strikingly beautiful crystal packaging and monument shaped ittar bottles from Middle-Eastern brands like Al Haramain leave much to be desired back-home.

A scent for the gods

There is something so captivating about the fragrance of ittars that from common man to the royals, no one can resist them. However, set near the foothills of Aravali close to lake-city Udaipur there is an abode where even the gods are not immune to the magical effects of ittar. At the temple of Nathdwara, pilgrims offer variants of ittar like rose, khus, kesar, jasmine and mogra to Lord Shrinath depending upon the season and the occasion. It is believed that Lord Srinath himself patronises the local ittar-producers here.

Over the years, it has tempted the gods, serenaded the royals and charmed the commoners. The magic of ittar refuses to fade and to sum it up in the words of author Patrick Suskind, “Odours have a power of persuasion stronger than that of words, appearances, emotions, or will”.


On a fragrant trail

  • Queen Cleopatra used to apply scent between her toes when she would go to meet her lover Mark Anthony. She was so fascinated with perfumes that she wrote a book on the subject.
  • The court of Louis XV was known as the “perfumed court” and it was obligatory for all courtiers to wear a different perfume every day.
  • Jasmine ittar was a favourite with the Nizams of Hyderabad. They used to gift visitors and guests beautiful tiny glass bottles of this floral fragrance.
  • Ruler of Awadh, Nawab Ghaziuddin Haider, had fountains of ittar built around his bedroom. It was considered below the dignity of nobles to step out without applying a fragrance.
  • Exotic scents like musk and amber were used in the Mughal darbars. Ain-e-Akbari mentions that ittar was used with incense sticks to create a pleasant ambience.
  • Queen of Yemen, Sulayhi Syeda, may not be as well known as Cleopatra but she was famous for fragrances created by her. In fact, she was considered legendary at making ittar. Precious little aroma bottles sent by her to the kingdoms of Arabia during various festivals were impatiently waited for.
  • Renowned poet Mirza Ghalib was also an avid ittar lover.

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Ring tone
A celebration of memorable moments during weddings and other ceremonial occasions, rings are also a fashion statement in themselves
Shobita Shivshankar

Manish is about to make one of the most important decisions of his life. He is on the verge of selecting an engagement ring for his bride-to-be Shweta. At a popular jewellery showroom in Delhi's South Extension, he has in front of him myriad choices. There's a single sparkling diamond ring, a three-diamond ring, a solitaire with side accents, a band with a cluster of precious stones and a number of other selections.

A sales manager with a luxury hotel, Manish knows the importance of an engagement ring. It is a celebration of love that he and Shweta will share forever. But how he expresses it will depend largely on his choice. Finally, after days of weighing his various options, he decides to buy an elegant Spiral Solitaire Ring costing Rs 1.25 lakh.

What is so significant about a ring that has occupied Manish's mind for so many days? The answer is simple. Whether it is an engagement ring or a marriage ring or even an anniversary ring, it is a special piece of jewellery for someone you love. And finding the perfect ring requires time, research and effort.

Gift of love

Throughout history, rings have come to signify happy occasions. There is an interesting story on why women wear it on the third finger of the left hand. According to folklore, the ancient Greeks believed that a vein of love travelled from the heart to this finger. Ever since then the tradition has continued and the ring finger becomes the subject of adornment during a marriage ceremony.

However, it is not just at weddings that rings assume significance. These are also worn as a fashion statement. The cocktail ring, for example, is a great style statement and an important part of a woman's accessories. It can add a pop of panache to a woman's attire as it is usually an oversized ornamental ring that matches with a party dress. It is also called a 'cluster ring' or a 'dinner ring'.

Global brands

There is a mind-boggling variety of rings dished out by jewellers around the world led by global brands like Van Cleef & Arpels, Graff of London, Tiffany, Piaget, Cartier and Chopard. Much like couture every season, these companies come out with a collection of rings in different shapes, styles and sizes studded with diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, garnets, opals, tsavorite, tourmalines, kunzite and aquamarine gemstones, Swarovski crystals and a host of other precious rocks. These can range from a few dollars to those costing a fortune.

In India, too, which has a rich tradition of jewellery, the ring has come to occupy a very important place during weddings and other ceremonial occasions. Not just that, companies like Tanishq, Nakshatra, Gitanjali, Tribhovandas Bhimji Jhaveri, Gili, Asmi, Sangini and others are churning out exquisite rings in platinum, gold and silver encrusted with diamonds, sapphires and other precious stones.

Colourful diamonds

Interestingly even diamonds are no longer just simple colourless precious stones. These come in several colours, including red, green, blue, pink, black, yellow and orange. These colours are a result of the different minerals that get into the diamond during its formative stage. For example, a yellow diamond would have nitrogen in it and a blue diamond would be the result of the presence of boron in the diamond.

As in precious stones, rings can come in a variety of metals like platinum, yellow gold, white gold, silver, titanium, tungsten, and even stainless steel. Though styles keep changing from season to season, some of the timeless classics include the delicate and sophisticated vintage rings and rings made of colourful precious stones like emeralds and yellow diamonds, rings in different shapes.

Celebrity trends

Going by what leading celebrities are flaunting, the trends seem to be changing. The solitaire ring is giving way to emerald cut, cushion cut, oval cut and pear cut rings. Then, there is a preference for different coloured diamonds like canary yellow, cognac and champagne as also diamonds cut in floral shapes and rings made of mixed metals with blue sapphire stones.

There is also a strong revival of vintage rings in India. Some of these are exquisitely crafted pieces embellished with precious stones and are a throwback of an era of royalty.

Traditionally, in India, rings have indeed been the ultimate jewellery to adorn the hands. Whether delicate, elegant or oversized knuckle dusters, these reflect the wearer's personality and individual style and can make one a cynosure of all eyes.


Christian Dior Diorette

Christian Dior has transformed the beauty of nature into jewellery. Its Diorette collection of jewels is a garden of flowers in stunning colours. These masterpiece rings are made of 18K gold and decorated with sapphires, diamonds, garnet, aquamarine and others precious stones.


Price: Rs 6,6000 to Rs 4.40 lakh

Chanel Comète

The 18K white gold Chanel Comète ring is designed as a three-dimensional starry night sky with blue sapphire backdrop and diamond shooting star, moon, and planets, encased within a rounded sapphire-crystal dome, with 172 round-cut sapphires and 109 round-cut diamonds.


Price: Rs 32.285 lakh

Betteridge Burmese

The Betteridge name has been associated with jewellery for more than a century in America. It is known for its stunning pieces like this

Burmese ruby and diamond cluster ring in 14k yellow gold. Cushion-cut ruby weighing 6.77 carats surrounded by circular-cut diamonds.

Price: Rs 54.45 lakh

Irene Neuwirth

This one-of-a-kind 18k rose, white and yellow gold ring set with 2.15 carat white rose cut diamond face and 0.8 carat white diamond surrounds is from the 2013 special collection of Irene Neuwirth, one of the highest selling contemporary American jewellery designers.

Price: Rs 23.10 lakh

Venus Fly Trap

This dazzling ring by celebrated London-based designer Tomasz Donocik is made from 18K rose gold with tsavorite and black diamonds. The heirloom piece features stone encrusted clasped thorns inspired by the Venus fly trap showcasing the thorny side of natural beauty.


Price:
Rs 6.084 lakh

Trinity De Cartier

Louis Cartier created the Trinity ring in 1924. It had three bands intertwined in harmony, three colours of gold: pink for love, yellow for fidelity and white for friendship. The timeless design is now available as an 18K pink gold diamond-paved ring set with a large kunzite gemstone.



Price:
Rs 25.96 lakh

Chaumet Vintage

A great example of 1930s modernist design by the French jewellery house of Chaumet, this ruby and diamond ring features a high dome of polished gold set with diamonds in star settings, so typical of 1930s rings. It has two diamonds on either side of a fine oval ruby giving it a real starry effect.

Price: Rs 16.50 lakh

Gucci Icon Stardust

The gorgeous 18ct yellow gold and diamond encrusted Gucci Icon Stardust diamond ring in 18ct white gold is set with shimmering diamonds. It is a perfect gift for any woman. The Gucci jewellery echoes the brand's longstanding icons with the famous 'GG' monogram.

Price: Rs 1.265 lakh

Piaget Cocktail Inspiration

This breathtaking ring is inspired by the "Blue Lagoon" cocktail. The 18k white gold ring with 58 brilliant-cut diamonds uses a 28-carat cushion-cut aquamarine to create the blue Curacao liqueur effect and 13 brilliant-cut fire opals which are like cherries to complete the cocktail.


Price:
Rs 45.10 lakh

Louis Vuitton lockit

The Louis Vuitton gold and diamond lockit ring has been inspired by the two iconic symbols of love --- the padlock and key. In Paris, courting couples have for years been securing signed and dated padlocks to famous bridges and throwing the key into the water below, sealing their love forever.

Price: Rs 5.72 lakh

Bao Bao Wan

The Pagoda diamond and gold ring is a direct reference to the well-known Chinese jewellery designer Bao Bao Wan growing up in a traditional Beijing courtyard. Made of 18k yellow gold, 250 white diamonds, 30 brown diamonds and a yellow diamond the ring in the shape of a Pagoda is a standout piece.

Price: Rs 10.615 lakh

Chopard

The 18k white gold, yellow sapphire and diamond ring is from the Swiss jewellery house Chopard. The rounded, thick shape and the wave design is playful and elegant. Hundreds of yellow sapphires and white diamonds mirror each other in this wave creation. A great gift for a lucky lady.

Price: Rs 13.063 lakh

Tiffany

Shimmering diamonds surround this splendid ring in platinum with a prominent blue tourmaline in the centre and a double row of round brilliant diamonds. The platinum gold diamond tourmaline ring, which was created by Tiffany's celebrated jewellery designer, Jean Schlumberger in the 1980s is a rage even today.

Price: Rs 10.725 lakh

Van Cleef & Arpels

This spectacular 18K Yellow Gold Ring by the famous French jewellery, watch and perfume company Van Cleef & Arpels which is renowned for its expertise in precious stones. The ring has 34 diamonds with a total weight of 1.25 carats, four sapphires, four emeralds and six rubies.

Price: Rs 5.225 lakh

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PACESETTER Khushboo
Putting their lives back on track
Khushboo Jain is dedicated to changing the lives of poor children living on the New Delhi Railway Station
A. Rodrigues

Arvind is one of the six children of a poor family from Bengal. As a child, he was fed just once a day and toiled from morning to evening in his grandparent's fields. Frustrated by his wretched existence he ran away from home and landed at the New Delhi Railway Station. As he stepped out of the station and saw the bustling world, fear gripped his mind. Where would he go? What would he eat? Where would he sleep? He broke into a cold sweat and hurried back to the station where he sat in a corner and cried.

Within minutes, the Railway Protection Force officer caught him and took him to a night shelter. He loathed the experience and when the sun broke the next morning ran back to the railway station. He has been there since then. Arvind is just one of the many children who land at the New Delhi Railway Station every day. For runaway kids like him, Khushboo Jain is a guardian angel. She is researching the causes that make children run away from home.

Khushboo who is studying for her Ph.D from the Delhi School of Economics is doing a thesis titled A Sociological Study of Street Children and Youth in Delhi. But what started as a pure academic pursuit has metamorphosed into a deeply emotional bond with these children.

So how did this transformation come about? Khushboo got drawn into a fight for the rights of the railway station children quite by accident. A young ragpicker was crushed to death by a shunting train. His cut-up body lay on the tracks and the cops and railway authorities showed no urgency to remove it. That was the turning point in Khushboo's life. “I was completely devastated by their apathy. That's when I decided to play a more proactive role than being a mere data collector for my Ph.D.” In 2012, Khushboo petitioned the High Court of Delhi asking for the implementation of the recommendations of the National Council for the Protection of Child Rights for safeguarding urchins at railway platforms. Taking note of her petition, the High Court ruled in her favour in February 2013.

Khushboo does not have an NGO nor does she belong to any. However, having won a battle in the High Court, she has now set her eyes on ensuring the implementation of the order and is working with different NGOs to make the New Delhi Railway Station child friendly and child safe.

She says these kids learn how to take care of themselves very fast. All they need is some emotional support. “Monetary help is important,” says Khushboo and adds, “but what is more important is some value addition to their lives. More than the money, these kids want a bit of dignity. And when you give them dignity their faces light up with happiness.”

And that, for Khushboo Jain, is just reward for her efforts.

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Bling it on

DRIVING ON LAND & WATER

Stuck in a traffic jam? Turn your vehicle towards the river and take a plunge. Lo and behold, your car doubles up as a speed boat. If you have heard of a flying car, then brace up for a jalopy that races on water. The Quadski is a retractable wheel vehicle which is an amphibian that operates both as an all-terrain vehicle and a personal watercraft that reaches a speed of 75kmph, both on water and land. To be sold commercially by November 2013, the Quadski's wheels automatically deploy when approaching land and retract after entering the water — something that you may have seen only in James Bond movies.

Expected price: Rs 22 lakh ($40,000)

HAIR’S TO A CHAIR

This is one of the most unlikeliest collaborations in recent times yet the results are amazing. Bentley, the iconic car maker, has teamed up with Pankhurst London, the grooming paradise for men with fine taste, to create six bespoke barber chairs which have the same level of marquee one would see on the interior of most Bentley cars. Five of the chairs display the Bentley logo on their headrests while a sixth has the Pankhurst badge emblazoned in its diamond-stitched hide. If you can’t afford a Bentley (most of us can’t) you can still sit on the car seat when you go for a haircut at the Pankhurst — provided you can afford that. 

Price: Haircut, shave & scalp massage at Pankhurst Rs 10,750 (£125)

LONDON ON THE BOX

That Linley of London is one of the most exclusive furniture outlets of England is a well-known fact. Owned by Viscount Linley, son of Princess Margaret, who is fifteenth in succession to the royal throne of England, it is but natural that he paints his country in lively colours. And this time he has done it quite literally. Linley has launched a series of 50 Limited Edition London jewellery boxes and humidors. Crafted in dark stained walnut, each box depicts the London skyline on the top, including the London Eye, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Tower Bridge, Big Ben and No. 10 Downing Street. If you are one of those who likes to blow money on collectibles take a look at these London Boxes.

Price: Rs 3.85 lakh ($7,000)

WORLD’S PUREST WATER

It is literally the water of life. The Iceberg Water is for those who do not want to take any chances with the quality of H2O. The water, according to the company, is sourced from Arctic icebergs that were formed over 12,000 years ago. It is made from ice that naturally detaches from the icebergs and travels down south during the warmer months and reaches Newfoundland coastline. This water is believed to have amazing healing properties. Marketed in clear and frosted bottles with patterns of snowflakes, the water can be great as a gift for a health- conscious friend.

Price: Rs 1,100 per bottle (£13)

TEATIME WITH VERSACE

It is tableware that has class written all over it. And why not? It is a collaboration between Versace and Rosenthal. One, a top-end Italian company known worldwide for its stunning designs and the other, a leading international supplier of contemporary table and living culture. The new range features opulent set of six teacups and saucers in matt sheen finish with a special golden titanium coating. An elegant pattern that reinforces Versace's art de la table and makes a perfect gifting option.

Price: Rs 52,250 ($950)

PICTURE-PERFECT 14

This one is for the movie buff with a blockbuster budget. The Imax Private Home Theatre is no ordinary cinema experience. In fact, it's an out-of-the-world experience. The picture quality is far superior to the movies you see in a multiplex. Instead of the standard Imax projectors with 2K resolution, your custom theatre will get dual 4K projectors, one for 2D and one for 3D movies. The projectors are good for a screen which is over 37-mm wide as the standard 22-mm panoramic screen is just isn't good enough. So go ahead if you have money to burn, gift yourself a cinema experience you and your friends will cherish for life.

Price: Between Rs 5.5 crore & Rs 11 crore depending on features (Between $1 million & $2 million)

OWN A PART OF F1 HISTORY

Most sports fans can only dream of seeing a real Formula One race. But what if someone told you that you can own a Formula One race track? Before you think this someone is out of his or her mind think again. No less than the legendary German Formula One racetrack Nurburgring is up for grabs for the highest bidder. All that you require is money. Big money. Maybe the kind of money that one gets from breaking a bank. Once you've found a way to raise that kind of money go bid for it. Who knows, you could own a part of sporting history?

Price: Rs 875 crore (125 million Euros)

WORTH ITS PRICE IN GOLD

It’s a camera that clicked over eight decades ago and clicks even better today. The gold-plated 1931 'Luxus' Leica became the star attraction at the WestLicht auction in Vienna, Austria on May 25. An intricate make in gold-plate with an exotic lizard leather covering in red, and two gold-plated lenses, the 'Luxus' Leica passed hands from three generations to its last owner Karl Henkell — the well-known German producer of sparkling wine who gave up the exquisite piece for auction, reaping more than three and a half times the expected price.

Auctioned for $683,000 (Rs 3.75 crore)

SEEING IS BELIEVING

The world over Bang & Olufsen's electronic giant is a byword in quality and design. Take for example its new ultra-stylish BeoVision 4 the 103-inch 3D plasma TV in HD. Besides being the largest set marketed in the world, the TV has a Panasonic panel and the weighs about 500 kilos inclusive of the stand which is motorised and adjusts to the position of the viewer. It can be raised, rotated and tilted to the perfect angle, with the click of a remote. The screen can lift automatically from the floor into viewing position as well as rotate left and right 20 degrees and even tilt up and down. Indeed, this is not just a television but truly a cinematic experience in the comfort of your home.

Price: Rs 45.10 lakh ($82,000)

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