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Dream weaver As
anyone who has been to one of his shows will attest, Suneet Varma demands a complete suspension of disbelief from his viewers. He creates a magical world of make-belief and, of course, clothes to die for! Few, however, would know the hard work, painstaking research and minute attention to detail that goes into each of his shows and shoots not to mention every single garment that bears the ‘Suneet Varma’ label. Since Suneet’s 25-year stint also coincides with the birth and growth of the fashion industry, he is uniquely placed to give his perspective to the story of the Indian fashion scene.
Credited with the rediscovery of embroidery, Suneet’s oeuvre shows an array of influences. His very first show — during the Festival of France being hosted in India in 1987 — heralded the arrival of a fresh new talent. Suneet’s inspirations — a Botticelli painting, an antique bowl, a movie scene, a flamenco dancer, a mehfil in Awadh — are varied. Motifs from Italy, Greece, France, as well as paintings and curios from some of the greatest museums of the world merge seamlessly with a quixotic design sensibility to produce something as striking as a Grecian-inspired block-printed tussar sari with a crushed pallu, worn with a gilded breastplate. His designer couture range includes bridal lehengas (Rs 5 lakh onwards), saris (starting from Rs 85,000), suits (Rs 50,000 onwards) etc.
Suneet has not confined himself to the garment industry, as is evident in his line of Judith Lieber bags. Those who have worked with him — photographers, models, choreographers, technicians — tell us how he is very, very precise about what he wants — be it for a garment, a show or a shoot; and how hard he drives himself to achieve his high standards of perfection. A new book, Suneet Varma (Niyogi, 2013), showcases some of the iconic collections and fashion images of recent times. It also celebrates the designer’s 25 years in the Indian fashion industry. Appropriately enough, the book carries the following words on its dedication page ‘For everyone who has dared to dream and follow their inspiration’. In an interview, the designer talks about his eventful journey: You have completed 25 years in the Indian fashion industry. You have not only contributed to its phenomenal growth as a founder member but have had a ringside view of its development since its infancy. How do you view its present position? It’s been an interesting journey for the Indian fashion industry — from being called glamorous darzis to being considered serious design people and finally being recognised as an industry. Not all of it has been easy or fun — but like any other industry in its infancy — we have seen its struggles and those for me have been the most enjoyable times. In my 25-year career, I’ve seen the first NIFT being set up, taught there as a faculty member, hosted a TV show called Style Guru for Star World network that got beamed to 54 countries, and had brilliant other such opportunities. All this would possibly not happen today for a young design person starting out. Today the fashion industry is a serious one, with many international players, domestic corporate giants looking to make major investments and grow the retail industry. The fashion industry has given birth to many related industries, like the beauty and accessories industry and given employment to many thousands. How has the designer’s role changed in these 25 years? Like any other industry where by you spend two or more decades working, your role becomes more of an entrepreneur. The designer today is the face of their brands — so the associations and collaborations matter. Has creativity been a casualty of market forces? One of your colleagues has described the early days as a time of high adventure, and the fashion scene being a sort of ‘wild west’… Well the market certainly dictates the basic needs of what we need to sell more of and at what price points — but thankfully that is a quest of the ready-to-wear industry — not for couture or high-end fashion. Each season I still look to develop new ideas for printing, embroidery and innovative ways of treating textiles...real fashion all over the world, including India, will always remain at the couture level — and from here it will trickle down to the ready-to-wear with less-decorated ideas. Who would you count as your major design influence? I’ve been very fortunate to have had great friends who have guided me to where I am today. My friend Penny Praddow who was a lecturer at the Met Museum at NYC taught me much — from new street style to old baroque jewellery to ancient Egyptian costumes. My dad was a huge influence; he encouraged my love for the arts and let me decide very early on that I wanted to work in the arts as a profession. If you had to describe your design aesthetic in one word, what would it be? Old world! Possibly feminine. Your peers in the fashion industry have called you a risk taker. Do you feel a need to challenge yourself? Fortunately or unfortunately, I’m one of those people who are never satisfied with anything I do — not a 100 per cent anyway. I always feel that it could have been done better or I could have researched more...because there is no end to learning. So yes, I like to swim in uncharted territories, and challenge myself all the time. Which do you enjoy designing more, western-wear or traditional Indian? And what are your views on fusion? I like to design Indian traditional wear for the contemporary Indian woman — so even though the silhouettes may not change drastically, the fabrics will, even the way the garments are paired and worn each season will change. The clothes each season have a new personality and a life of their own. How, if at all, do you see international trends — be it in colour, silhouette or texture — translating into the Indian design ethos? India doesn’t necessarily follow any international trends because the Indian traditions, our religious functions, weddings, Bollywood are so strong in their definition that they become the trends for India. No other country, besides Pakistan, wears colour and embellishment like India does — no matter how many pairs of jeans we may own, we will still wear it with a kurti. The sari has featured time and again in your oeuvre. In one of your interviews, you made the memorable comment that: ‘You wear the sari; it doesn’t wear you.’ Tell us a little about why the sari has had such an impact on your design sensibility. The sari is the most definite and versatile garment in the world — in fact it defies the definition of a garment because it is six metres of unstitched fabric that can be draped in a 1001 ways and then some more! You can wear it and be demure and in a flash it can be sexy. You have just completed 25 fruitful years. Is there a blueprint for the next 25 years? Lots of interesting plans in the pipeline — we open our first ready to wear Indian line store the Promenade Mall in Vasant Kunj, Delhi. I’m working on the interiors of the new 7 series for BMW in Munich which will be launched at the end of 2013. And I definitely want to do more books and perhaps make a movie someday.
Designer speak Suneet Varma
I believe fashion is the politest way of speaking about sex. But I like the subtle unspoken word — left to the imagination of the wearer. The sensibility in my clothing comes through the use of sheer and lucid fabrics, the delicate placement of the embellishments, the drape and the unexpected details and what they reveal or conceal. About the book With over 500 illustrations, the book, Suneet Varma is preceded by a foreword from textile guru Martand Singh. In addition, it also features photographs by Prabuddha Das Gupta, Bharat Sikka, Tarun Khiwal, Farrokh Chothia, Hemant Khandelwal, Vibash Tiwari, and others; There are also interviews with designers JJ Valaya, David Abraham, Vogue Editor Priya Tanna, former model Madhu Sapre and FDCI President Sunil Sethi, amongst others. From growing up surrounded by the arts to his first collection of hand-painted saris or even his role as the international creative cirector at Judith Leiber, this style retrospective looks back at his best moments and memories till date.
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World of Vases There
is something about vases that has attracted people for centuries. The earliest mention about vases can be found in ancient Mesopotamia, some 3000 years ago. There are also frequent references to how Romans mastered the art and technique of making glass and crystal vases. Even today, Italians make some of the best vases in the world, with Murano leading the pack. There is an interesting history to these special vases that come in exquisite shapes and sizes. Back in the 13th century, there were so many foundries making vases in Venice that the government feared there could be a major fire due to the constantly burning glass furnaces. To safeguard against such an eventuality, the vase-making units were shifted from Venice to the nearby Murano, which is a series of islands in the Venetian lagoon linked by bridges.
Hand-blown
For more than 700 years, Murano has been producing hand-blown vases to be used for flower arrangements, as centrepieces and for decorative purposes. These also come as candle holders, and even as planters and bookends. The secret of these top quality vases is that Murano has a rich source of silica sand, which when mixed with soda ash creates a superior form of glass used for vases. Though Murano still produces superb vases, there are now a number of other places around the world that are excelling as well. British companies like the Royal Crown Derby, Wedgwood and Royal Worcester have been producing some of the most artistic vases. Other European companies include Lladro of Spain, Baccarat and Rene Lalique of France, Vileroy and Boch of Germany, Royal Copenhagen of Denmark, Rosenthal of Bavaria and of course, Swarovski of Austria, which specialise in crystalline vases. The prices of these high-end vases can range between Rs 15,000 and Rs 30,000 a piece. China, too, has had a long affair with vases. Its porcelain vases fired in kilns are iconic and have been manufactured for centuries. In ancient times, the making of vases was a closely guarded secret. The art flourished during the Ming dynasty, and even today, some genuine 14th and 15th century antique vases are auctioned for millions of dollars.
Object de art
Today, there are a host of other companies and designers making vases not just from glass but in a variety of materials like ceramics, porcelain, brass and crystal. There is a mind-boggling variety in the market in terms of shape, sizes, colours and designs. Some are machine-made, others hand-painted with delicate brush strokes, some meticulously carved in glass, making these virtual objects de art. Though these make great decoratives, vases actually come alive when these are complemented with flowers. The pretty combination can bring to life even the dullest of rooms. Affordable vases are available throughout the world but the highend ones have remained a symbol of luxury and the preserve of the wealthy. These have been treated as pieces of art to be cherished for a lifetime and passed on to future generations. Perhaps, this is what makes these such coveted collectibles.
Decoration pieces
The market today offers a wide range of vases that can start from a few thousand rupees and go up to lakhs. There are also those that are mass produced and are available in department stores, gift shops and souvenir stands from where these are bought for a few hundred rupees to be displayed in homes as decorative art. With companies like Lalique & Daum, Swarovski and Lladro setting up shops in India, top-end vases are catching the fancy of the uber rich. The delicate porcelain and ceramic vases that could earlier be brought at high-end shops in the West are now available in India, for a price, of course. Over the years, with the rise in demand, the value of old vases has begun spurting. Such is the revival of interest today that leading auction houses like the Sotheby’s and Christie’s hold auctions of rare vases that go to the highest bidder usually for millions. Several museums have sprung up around the world displaying the fine vases. There are collectors who are ready to pay enormous sums for old and rare pieces. Many such collectibles have been passed on from generation to generation like family heirlooms.
Created by award-winning British designer Ilse Crawford for the Danish luxury lifestyle brand Georg Jensen, this mirror-polished lustrous stainless steel Mama Vase is perfectly proportioned — voluptuous yet lean and feminine with an undulating shape that will liven up any room. Price:
Rs 20,625 $375
ARABIAN NIGHTS PYRAMID SET
Price:
Rs 9,625 & Rs 11,825
This stunning Montrose vase is decorated with the ‘Old Country Roses’ motif of burgundy, pink and yellow roses accented with the lustrous 22-carat gold banding. The pattern is practically synonymous with Royal Albert and a testament to the timeless style and elegant craftsmanship. Price:
Rs 19,800 $360
The Kosta Boda contrast vase features an appealing shape, with wisps of colour in each one. It’s a great addition to the home or office, whether you’re filling it up with real or artificial flowers. Simple shapes with clean lines combined with hazes in glass make each of these vases special. Price:
Rs 13,750 $250
French luxury crystal house Baccarat is known for its artistic craftsmanship that covers a vast repertoire. This handcrafted full-lead crystal is one of those inspired pieces. It has beautiful prisms that accent its form, making it a great addition to your home or as a gift. Price:
Rs 18,144
The 10-inch vase adorned with iconic Love Knots pattern from Wedgwood will accent the home with artful style and luxury. The crystal vase is gracefully decorated with a cute bow adding a simple and creative touch to your décor. Price:
Rs 4,125 $75
This Royal Cobalt Blue & Gold vase by Arthur Wood has accents of gold, which complement the golden decorations. The vase has stylised grapes and vines and an appealing spider web motif. The golden accents decorate the vase at its top rim and base. Price:
Rs 4,950 $90
This Swarovski crystalline vase will add to the beauty of your home. The crystalline centre has engravings of thousands of glittering chaton roses that reflect light and add sheer brilliance to any floral arrangement. The sturdy base of the faceted clear crystal vase shines through elegantly. Price:
Rs 31,625 $575
Handcrafted in Poland by master glassworkers, the Dap vase achieves its alluring pattern through the painstaking application of dabs of molten glass, one colour at a time. The exacting process of working with molten glass is a hallmark of the time-honoured Polish glassmaking tradition. Price:
Rs 4,679
Inspired by the beauty of the umbel flower, a symbol of sovereignty in Asia, the exquisite Ombelle vase is a part of the Carnet de Voyage collection. The vase features a design inspired by the accented buds of the umbel flower, which makes it a stunning decoration piece. Price:
Rs 20,625 $375
Luxury meets tradition with the Duchess Encore Lavender Collection by Vera Wang. It is characterised by a contemporary take on the classic Duchesse pattern. Use it to display roses or a dry arrangement. This stunning vase is accented with a soft lavender hue. Price:
Rs 11,275 $205
The Araglin collection by Waterford is characterised by diamond and vertical wedge cuts and fashioned into an elegant tulip design. This stunning vase has a variety of uses in traditional and contemporary homes. Whatever you display, it will be showcased by a bold scarlet hue. Price:
Rs 17,875 $325
The Black Orchid collection takes its inspiration from the intricacies of form and texture found in foliage from around the world. Handcrafted by American designer Michael Aram, who works primarily with craftsmen in India, the vase is an eco-inspired design. Price:
Rs 8,625 to Rs 15,315
Understanding vases
Though vases come in various shapes and sizes, one of the most important differentiators is the material these are made of. This also determines the use a vase is to be put to. Whether you are using it as a centrepiece or for an arrangement of flowers or a candle base, you should know the kind of vase to buy. Here are some most popular materials used to make vases: Glass: One of the most widespread materials used to make vases, glass can be moulded in many shapes and sizes. It can be clear or opaque, tall or narrow and is generally used for floral arrangements. Crystal: For years, crystal vases have tantalised the world with their exquisite shapes and sizes. Companies like Baccarat, Swarovski, Lalique and Lladro have wowed collectors with their elegant and expensive vases. Ceramic: This is another very popular material used for making vases. The ceramic vases are usually handmade and despite it being porous, hard and brittle, vases made from ceramic are sophisticated and elegant. Porcelain: Close to ceramic, porcelain vases usually come from China where it has flourished for eons. Porcelain reached its peak during Tang and Ming dynasties and vases made from it are highly valued even now. Other material: Granite, marble, bronze and cast metals are other materials employed in making vases. The advantage of vases made from such material is that these look great and are less prone to breakage.
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GEORG JENSEN
Inspired by drama and mystery, this contemporary collection of Arabian Nights glass vases are hand-blown and the design is a fusion of midnight, white and clear glass, spiced with a touch of gold sand. It will make a striking conversation piece wherever it sits in your home.
ROYAL ALBERT
KOSTA BODA
BACCARAT
WEDGWOOD
ARTHUR WOOD
SWAROVSKI
DAP
LALIQUE
VERA WANG
WATERFORD ARAGLIN
MICHAEL ARAM
