Restoring a legacy
Maharaja Ranjit
Singh’s precious heritage, ravaged and ignored till now, has
been given a fresh lease of life. Nonika Singh takes a look
It is not the
honour that you take with you, but the heritage you leave
behind.
— Branch Rickey
The Sham Singh Attariwala Samadhi complex has been restored to its glory
— Photo: Vishal Kumar
WE Indians are so
good at cherishing memories. Yet when it comes to living memory
that we inherit by way of heritage; we simply turn a blind eye
and let it be ravaged. Not surprising then that we may idolise
Maharaja Ranjit Singh, but have ignored his precious heritage
— Rambagh Palace complex, Rambagh Gate, Gobindgarh Fort and
the Sham Singh Attariwala Samadhi complex, besides Pul Kanjri.
Today as winds of
restoration are blowing across Amritsar, the beauty of Maharaja
Ranjit Singh’s legacy lying within the labyrinths of priceless
architectural buildings is being re-constructed.
The Punjab
Government’s Department of Tourism had envisaged an ambitious
project to conserve and revitalise this complex. With the two
heritage sites, Pul Kanjri and the samadhi all but complete and
the first phase of the other project nearing completion, it is
time to take stock of what has been done.
Indeed, on the
surface much appears incomplete. As one gazes across the long kutcha
road to Rambagh Palace, also known as Summer Palace, all one can
see are the dust and the dug-up places. This whole restoration
process, the damage done to flora and fauna and the
inconvenience caused to people, peeves MLA Anil Joshi.
But get talking
toGurmeet Rai, India’s leading conservation architect,
whose company is the consultant to the Rambagh complex, the
Gobindgarh Fort and the Rambagh Gate, and many layers of past
begin to peel off to unravel the original.Quips Rai,
"One must understand that while plants can be grown back,
heritage buildings are non-renewable resources. And the
buildings of Maharaja Ranjit Singh much of whose legacy is in
Lahore, even more so."
She elaborates on
the challenges involved, "To begin with, one has to recover
before restoring." So at the Rambagh complex, the western
deodhi, which used to be Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s darbar
of sorts, the office of civil defence had to be moved out.
Similarly, Gobindgarh Fort, though not a protected monument, had
to be taken back from the Army, which had eventransferred the
title to the Punjab Government. Rambagh Gate, too, housed a
police station, which had to be relocated.
Moreover, it’s
not just the onslaught of time that has ravaged heritage but
changes in subsequent periods in history like the British era,
too, water down the authenticity of previous ones. Rambagh,
an 84-acre of sprawling site declared protected by the ASI, is
known only as company bagh among people, perhaps as a legacy of
the East India Company.
But Gurmeet can’t
be easily deterred. Since details as well authenticity are
important to her, she had to find the original blueprint. The
only reference point she had was an archival painting of Rambagh
ofthe early 19th century from Gulgashat-e-Punjab by Raja Ram
Tota.Nevertheless, as she dug deep not only did she discover
the original limestone lining but "water channels of the
Sikh period were also revealed."
She claims,
"What a marvel of engineering it was — the scientific
management of waterand horticultural practices." Today,
the same feat cannot be recreated butthey do intend to make
the public aware of its import.
Also, wherever she
found original material after scrapping off layers, which couldn’t
be integrated with the restoration work, she and her team intend
to use geotextile non-degradable material to cover it up so that
in future if archaeologists dig they can find the material of
the Sikh period."
Dr Sukhjot Singh
Behal, professor of architecture, Guru Nanak Dev University,
Amitsar, can find little fault in the way the restoration work
is being handled. Though others like Dr Sukhdev Singh, state
convener of Intach, Punjab, opine that the work is progressing
slowly thus endangering what has been achieved, but Dr Behal
feels otherwise. Says he, "You can’t compare restoration
with modern-day construction since the originality is at stake.
The intrinsic essence of conservation cannot be compromised
with." Undeniably, conservation is not just painting the
doors, ornamentation, piecing things together or faking it but
capturing the original spirit.
So Gurmeet has
gone to great lengths to replicate the original brick pattern
and find the right paint finish on the walls. Besides getting
the architectural details of the building right, there is also
the question of art conservation. For instance, Rambagh or
Summer Palace housed exquisite ceilings done in Khatamband
technique, which is native to Kashmir but had been eaten away by
termite as also damaged by over paint. Maninder Gill, an art
conservator, whose company has restored paintings at Pul Kanjri,
is busy breathing life back into the Khatamband ceilings of the
Summer Palace. He says,"Restoring these ceilings hasn’tbeen
easy. For one, the wooden panels are very small. Taking off the
ceiling has been arduous. After restoration on them is finished,
putting them back will be equally onerous."
Among challenges
involved in art conservation are getting the right kind of
manpower, more so for projects like Pul Kanjri, where the
remoteness of the site itselfpresented an impediment.
Interestingly, since both the Pul and Sham Singh Attariwala
Samadhi complex are situated far away from the city, the
relevance of restoration, which is almost complete, assumes
another dimension — what to do now. More so, since at the
samadhi complex,as Bhai Sawinder Singh shares that except forthe shaheedi diwas mela in February hardly anyone
visits the site.
Though samadhi is
a private trust and there is little the government can do beyond
repairing it, says Geetika Kalha, Principal Secretary, Tourism
and Cultural Affairs, Punjab, "Monuments are not museum
pieces to be locked away." Actually, the tourism
department has an ambitious media plan to put all these on the
tourism circuit, Adds Kalha, "Tourists are already
thronging Amritsar. We have to make them stay longer by offering
them a bouquet of various destinations."
For Gobindgarh
Fort, they are even toying with public-private partnership. Once
the restoration work is over, three museums, including the one
on Ranjit Singh’s military history, and another on the Sikh
regiment tracing its history back to Khalsa Fauj, will be ready.
A boutique kind of hotel is also being envisaged to offer people
an authentic experience.
Similarly, for Pul
Kanjri talks are on with an NGO Springdale, which will take care
of its upkeep on a no-profit basis.
But says Kalha
"However, we can’t hand over the monument just like that.
There has to be a memorandum of understanding."
So while Rambagh
Palace will become a museum, the master plan also includes an
open-air theatre and an art gallery.
So, while Kalha
asserts the need to make a building come alive, Rai too, says
that heritage spaces will have a meaning only if these are
converted into vibrant cultural nuclei. Neeta Mohindra, a visual
and performing artist of the city, agrees that there is ample
scope for art activities, including art workshops, within and
against the backdrop of the fort and the palace. The opinion is
unanimous — architecture must come into public domain but in a
planned way.
The use of space
can’t be detrimental to the site as is happening in Rambagh
Gate, which has been restored yet lookslike a monstrositybecause of encroachments and shops jutting out
from the edges of its walls. Says Rai, "What conservation
needs more than anything else is political will and a legally
enabling regime. One has to begin with public assets before
moving on to the private and for public spaces there has to be a
proper policy."
Kalhashares
that they have already asked Unesco to give them a cultural
management plan.
Clearly, more than
a beginning has been made in earnest and in the right direction
to reveal once again Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s contribution to
history.
A heritage
in stone
Gobindgarh
Fort of Gujjar
Singh Bhangi, one of the most striking edifices of the
city, was consolidated by Ranjit Singh and had three lines
of defence, several bastions and interesting European
feature like ravelins. It is believed that the treasury of
Ranjit Singh was kept here.
After the
British took over, a large cantonment was built around the
fort and numerous living quarters, including a six-bed
hospital, came up. A museum is being built that will house
the military artefacts of Ranjit Singh.
The
construction of Rambagh Fort was started by Ranjit Singh
in 1819 AD. In the middle of Charbagh lies his Summer
Palace that was originally constructed at a cost of Rs
1,25,000. In the first phase, the platform encircling the
palace and the road leading to the palace will get ready.
Summer Palace will house artefacts belonging to Maharaja
Ranjit Singh’s times.
Rambagh
Gate, the only surviving gate built during Maharaja Ranjit
Singh’s time, was beautifully designed by architects
from Delhi under the supervision of Faqir Azizuddin.
Today, on its edges stand shops yet within the gate,
especially on its first floor the ambience of yesteryear
pulsates. The tourism department is thinking of setting up
a caf`E9 here.
PulKanjri,
near the Wagah border, as legend goes, was the recreation
site of the Sikh monarch, where he was entertained by one
of his favourite dancers. Set amid picturesque fields,
this heritage site has been restored to its old glory.
Yet another
heritage site is the Sardar Sham Singh Attariwala Samadhi
complex in Attari village. Sham Singh Attariwala was a
brave general in the army of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. |
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