Falling for Niagara

They have been around for over 12,000 years yet the lure of the Niagara Falls is as strong as ever. Every year over 20 million people visit the falls, writes Gyan Marwah

WHEN you first see the horseshoe-shaped Niagara Falls, the first two questions that come rushing to the mind of the first-time tourist is: where does so much water come from? When were the falls first discovered? The answers are not far to seek. Any brochure will tell you that this wonder of nature was born out of melting glaciers some 12,000 years ago.

The falls can be viewed from the Canadian side and the American side. Most diehard Niagara watchers, however, prefer the Canadian side where the falls offer a spectacular view with the water cascading from a height of 57 metres (188 feet) at a speed of around 2.3 million litres per second.

There are many ways to see the beauty of the falls. The best way to see the river’s natural whirlpool is from high overhead — aboard the Niagara Spanish Aero Car. Located five kilometres north of the falls, the cable car was designed and built in 1916 by Spanish engineer Leonardo Torres Quevedo. From atop the cable car, one gets a panoramic view of the rapids and speedboats full of adventure-seekers crashing into the waves. The car takes tourists from one end to the other over a spectacular whirlpool.

A trip to Niagara can never be complete without going under the falls — almost literally. There is a man-made tunnel that takes you to the base of the falls which leads to an observatory. There, through a glass, you can see the falls cascading down millions of gallons of water into the river.

Take a ride on the Maid of the Mist. It’ll be one of the world’s most thrilling boat rides, taking you so close to the falls that you get sprayed by the mist that rises as the water comes crashing down. This boat ride has been one of Niagara’s most popular attractions for a century and a half.

Jeffery Mooreson, a British author, wrote after the ride: "Until you have seen the Niagara Falls from the deck of the Maid of the Mist, you have little idea of the overwhelming power of that mighty ship. As it heaves and bucks, approaching closer and closer to the cascading water, all the passengers are completely enveloped in spray. The deafening roar, the spray driving against your face, the hammering of the ship’s diesel engines as they force the vessel against the current, make for an unforgettable experience."

The falls have attracted a number of daredevils who challenged them and attempted to cross them on ropes and go over them in barrels; many never lived to tell the tale and some even didn’t attract attention. The most famous of the exploits was that of Frenchman Jean Francois Gravelet, who walked across Niagara Falls on a tightrope in front of over 25,000 people. He later repeated the feat and, incredibly, this time he had a friend sitting on his shoulders.

A century ago on July 24, 1902, Annie Taylor was the first person in the world to go over the Niagara Falls in a barrel. She told the gathered press that she was 43 though later it turned out she was a 63-year-old American schoolteacher. Her feat was not just successful but she lived another 20 years to tell the tale. But after the death-defying exploit, her advice was: "For those who want to follow my example I have only this to say — never do it!" Over the past century, 15 people have not heeded her advice. While 10 succeeded, other five perished in the waves.

Besides the falls, there are several other attractions around Niagara. For example, nine kilometres north of the falls along the Niagara Parkway is the Niagara Parks Botanical Gardens and School of Horticulture. A conservatory is located in the botanical gardens, which is home to over 2000 free-flying tropical butterflies. It is said that the lush greenery and flowing water are ideal conditions for these colourful ‘flying flowers’.

But the best of all is a visit to a quaint little place on the mouth of the Niagara river. Called Niagara-on-the-lake, this is a picture postcard town built in 1799. It was the principal British garrison and was captured and occupied by the Americans in 1813. The British recaptured it after a blood-spattered war in 1812.

The town is still under siege, but by thousands of tourists who come to this old world town daily. It has now been restored to how it was in 1812. Costumed and uniformed guides relive those times, and this includes such activities as boat building, musket firing, blacksmithing and cooking. All these activities make it easy to imagine how life was in the early 19th century.

Here you can visit a Georgian bakery built in 1801 where you can have freshly baked scones with hot tea. Or you could go to one of the many wine-tasting centres where you could sip the famous wines that are made from grapes grown in this area.

If that’s not to your taste, you could go to a heritage printery that spans 500 years of letterpress printing. Or just take a leisurely trip around the town on a horse-drawn buggy. If you are in the mood, you could retire to the Shaw Theatre that features works by George Bernard Shaw and his contemporaries. But you’d have to be extremely lucky to get a ticket.

A visit to this town is a must as it sets the mood for one of the greatest spectacles of the world — the Niagara Falls. A natural wonder that attracts over 20 million visitors every year where more camera film is sold than anywhere else in the world! — NF

HOME