On the high road to Bhutan

From snow-capped mountains to prayer flags fluttering in the wind, from fortresses shrouded in mystery to resplendent monasteries, from mask dances to folk music, Bhutan is an elevating experience, says Mukesh Khosla

The enchanting Paro valley. — Photos by the writer

Even as you walk on the pebbled streets you’d be forgiven if you pinch yourself occasionally to make sure you are really awake or in some dreamland.

Bhutan is one of those parallel worlds of fiction where everything is familiar, but the details are all different. And on a four-day, three-night package to this land of monasteries, Lamas and chortens, one begins to notice the similarities — and differences. Many locals speak Hindi, shopkeepers happily trade in Indian rupees, western tourists in trekking gear walk past Buddhist monks rotating prayer wheels.

Bhutan is the last surviving Mahayana Buddhist state. Ascetics, scholars, philosophers and pilgrims have been drawn to these remote and rugged mountains in search of wisdom, inspiration and solitude.

Even today Bhutan is in a time wrap. Despite the fact it opened its doors to tourism in 1974, most inhabitants are blissfully unaware of the world around them and are happy doing their own thing. ‘Let the world come and meet us,’ seems to be their motto. And an increasing number of people from around the globe are making Bhutan a part of their itinerary. What they discover is a place that has not changed in centuries.

The world may come to them in blue jeans and designer clothes but the locals are happy and proud of dressing up in their khos and kiras. Bhutanese fiercely safeguard their way of life. Despite the increasing number of tourists, they are happy in their self-imposed isolation. But like good Buddhists, they are both hospitable and friendly to visitors.

The breathtaking beauty of the place starts mesmerising you right from the time your plane touches down at the only airport of the country in the Paro valley. It’s an awe-inspiring sight: the hilly terrain all around you dotted with houses and temples with architecture found nowhere else in the world.

From high snow-capped mountains emerging from the clouds to the dzongs (fortresses) shrouded in mystery, from gompas and prayer flags fluttering in the wind to the natural environment, from religious mask dances to folk music, Bhutan is an elevating experience.

Schoolchildren, like all Bhutanese, are attired in the national dress.

The country has been identified as one of the 10 biodiversity hotspots in the world. Its eco-system has the most exotic species of the eastern Himalayas besides an astonishing variety of medicinal plants and orchids and a rich wildlife that boasts of snow leopards, golden langoors, blue sheep and the red panda.

The population of 600,000 is mostly made up of indigenous Bhutanese. Many naturalised citizens came from Tibet, Nepal and India and made Bhutan their home. Bhutanese follow the matriarchal system and women enjoy an enormous amount of empowerment.

The Paro valley is the crown of Bhutan. To the north of this enchanting valley lies Mount Jhomolhari from where five glaciers plunge into deep gorges converging to form the Paro river which nourishes the valley and its adjoining areas.

Casting a shadow across the town of Paro and controlling all secular and religious activities in the valley is the elegant and perfectly symmetrical Ringpul Dzong built in 1646 that houses the monastic body of Paro.

The capital Thimpu is 65 km from Paro. Unlike other cities, it is not bursting at its seams. Its real charm lies in its quaint bazaar, where shops are decorated in traditional style and shopkeepers are delightfully helpful.

Most of these touristy shops sell masks, jewellery, carpets, wooden products and Bhutan’s world famous stamps that can also be purchased from the main post office. The honey and jams are fresh and better than the best you can buy anywhere else.

Bhutan is the last surviving Mahayana Buddhist state: (L) A lama beside a giant prayer wheel; (R) Buddha’s mural in Thimpu

Bhutan has a thriving liquor industry and those wanting a tipple will never be disappointed. One can choose from the highly rated Bhutan Mist to locally produced rum, whisky and gin. The hotels hold several surprises. Each property is designed in the traditional Bhutanese style and is set in an unusual and dramatic location. Rooms are heated in winter and have modern baths with running hot and cold water.

The food is hot and spicy and the staple is rice, vegetables and meat. Most of the hotels have their own restaurants where Bhutanese food is served tempered to western taste. There are a few free standing restaurants in Thimpu but it’s best to stick to hotel food.

If the weather is clear and the mood is adventurous then eastern Bhutan offers some of the world’s best treks. If you don’t want to trek, go for a long drive on the spectacular hilly roads. You would come across sheer drops of thousands of feet, huge cascading waterfalls, endless turns that will make your drive the most exhilarating experience.

While driving, you may often surprise — or be surprised by — blue sheep scampering up the rock faces. You will see plenty of yak roaming in the mountains and if you are lucky, you may catch the glimpse of the rare and elusive snow leopard taking a leisurely walk across the road. It is this exotica that makes Bhutan such a quaint destination. — NF

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