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Love at First Puff With an ever-increasing number of foreigners marrying locals in the Kulu-Manali belt, it is open to question whether such marriages result out of lure of love or easy drugs, says Kuldeep Chauhan
For some of them it is the lure of the valley’s beauty and culture. Others tie the nuptial knot because of love at first sight. But there are others, who enter the wedlock allegedly just to make money from the flourishing valley’s ‘charas and opium contraband trade that gives them the prized dollars’ in Europe and America. As many as 27 foreigners, including French, British, Dutch, Japanese, Korean, Austrians, Australian, Singaporean, Norwegian and Americans have married locally in Kulu district since 1984. Interestingly, the trend picked up in the mid-1990s when charas smuggling assumed alarming proportions in Kulu-Mandi district. This trend is still continuing. The latest is a safai karamchari girl, 22, who married a foreigner double her age and they were seeking registration of their marriage at Kulu. Last year, an Austrian woman, Natali, 28, married one Umesh, who had been married four times in the past and both are now settled down at Vasisht, near Manali, and run a stone crystal shop there. There are also cases when the couple got married abroad and then came back to settle down in the Kulu valley. But the Himachal Pradesh police suspects that the lure is the hot Malana crème, a high-quality hashish produced in the landlocked Malana village across the Chandrakhani pass, which is also feted as world’s oldest surviving democracy, with its queer customs and culture. In fact, Banjar, Malana, Manikaran and Parbati valleys in Kulu district and Chauhar and Seraj valleys in Mandi district have emerged as new drug havens for foreigners. They visit these high spots both for ‘wild kicks’ and to fetch hashish and opium. The police substantiates its suspicion with facts: As many as 142 foreigners have been booked under the Narcotic, Drugs and Psychotropic Substances (NDPS) Act from 1999 till May 2006. A case in point is that the police arrested Bastian, a Dutch national, who has married a local village woman, under the NDPS Act last year from Delhi. He was caught red-handed when he was allegedly trying to smuggle 14.8 kg of charas procured from Manali. As many as five married foreigners are facing police investigations, say sources. The anti-drug drive by the Narcotic Control Bureau (NCB) and the HP police destroyed cannabis and opium crops in the drug haven and made big and small seizures from foreigners, Nepalese and Indians for the past six years. The largest charas seizure was by the NCB from a foreigner in Chandigarh—164 kg and 107 kg by the Kulu police in Manali from a Malana smuggler, who had been convicted by the Kulu court. But the lure continues as over 90 per cent of hashish produced in the state is still smuggled out through various channels, revealed top police sources. “They try various methods—through air or by road— to stay on in the valley or go to Nepal and then return after a day or two, renewing visas for another six months. They marry a local or join meditation centres in the valley as a ploy”, sources said. Because of the recent anti-drug drives, the foreigners are a scared lot, as a majority of them come here for kicks, not for smuggling. The drives in turn have hit tourism in the state, say hoteliers. The smugglers are now operating through Nepalese nationals and poor locals for dispatching drug consignments. The police has arrested four foreigners this year under the NDPS Act. The trend of foreigners marrying the locals picked up in the 1990s when the Malana charas and hashish became a hot property in the west and brought a bad name to the Kulu valley. Over 13 such marriages were registered by the district administration in the past decade. Today foreigners who have married here speak the local language and their spouses speak the foreign language. Gopal Das, who barely understood Italian when he met Maria Rosa Fappani, an Italian woman at his Manikaran house, married her in the 1996-97. “But now we have a son. She speaks Kuluvi and I can speak and understand Italian. We visit Italy occasionally”, he says. But the Kulu police suspects that some of the married foreigners are engaged in the charas smuggling. In a recent case Mr Bastian, a Dutch, who has married a local woman, was trying to smuggle 14.8 kg of charas from Manali last week, the police said. “The marriage prolongs their stay in the valley as they get special permission from the Home Ministry”. But the DIG (Central Range), Mr J.R. Thakur, says most of the foreigners come for enjoying the beauty of the Himalayas and it will be wrong to suspect every foreigner or married couple as drug smuggler. The villagers say there are marriages, however, that make Manali proud. Among the famous ones, who chose to make the valley their home, are the niece of the Tibetan spiritual guru, Dalai Lama, Ms Tensing Chuki Samdan Takhla, a US citizen, who visited Kulu in 1987 and married Raj Krishan Mahant, a landlord from Jagatsukh, Manali. They are good friends of Ranjan Bhatacharya, son-in-law of former Prime Minister Atal Bihari Vajpayee. The residents, however, do not encourage foreigners marrying local men or women as they doubt their intention. “We do not support such marriages as there are cases where foreigners do dubious business”, says Mr Budhi Singh Thakur, former chairman, Zila Parishad, Kulu district.
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Planning disaster Lack of coordination between the execution and planning agencies has led to failure in developing the Baddi-Barotiwala-Nalagarh industrial area into a planned industrial estate. Though the Town and Country Planning (TCP) Department tried to draw up a development plan for the area in 2003, it remained only on paper. According to the plan prepared by the TCP Department, a specific area had been earmarked for residential and industrial plots, green and open spaces, sector roads, educational institutes, and commercial complexes, among other things. The 2003 central industrial package saw a rush of industrial units coming to the area. In the absence of any directions, the investors bought plots all over the region. This led to a situation where the land reserved for green and open spaces was also converted into industrial plots. Such was the rush for setting up industries that investors even bought agricultural land and later sought land-use change from the TCP Department. The department earned crores of rupees in the process of issuing such certificates. The department woke up belatedly to implement its long-drawn developmental plan. The damage, however, has been colossal and even on land earmarked for sector roads buildings are coming up. In some cases, the earmarked sector roads projected in the proposed development plan were found passing through the industrial units. Left with little option, the department then sought an affidavit from the industrial units that they would surrender land when required for the construction of roads. Terming this step as illogical, the investors said, “It belied all logic that the department could draw a development plan for private land use. Either this plan of land use should have been notified in the revenue records or the department should not have issued NOCs for its use.” The double standards adopted by the department in granting them permission on one hand and identifying them as offenders even after issuing NOCs on the other, irks them. The haphazard development of the region has left little scope for undertaking planning to undo the harm. Not only are residential colonies coming up amidst industrial plots, the total lack of planning has also adversely affected the existing residential colonies. With a number of industrial units coming up in the proximity of an engineering and dental college at Bhud village, the academic ambience has been spoilt. Real estate dealers said buyers were reluctant to come to Baddi as the place had no educational institutes for children, nor were there any hospitals. This acted as a big deterrent for buyers as executives working there preferred to commute from Chandigarh and its surrounding areas. “People earn in Himachal and spend in Chandigarh, Panchkula and Mohali. It is the deplorable condition of the roads and poor infrastructure that dissuades the executives from staying here. It’s embarrassing when foreign dignitaries come to visit their units,” rued a senior executive of a MNC.
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Fading identity of Lavi fair The tribal festival, earlier known as the Lavi fair of Kinnaur, is held every year from October 30 to November 2 at Reckong Peo. The district headquarters of the tribal district is gradually losing its traditional identity, thanks to the insensitive attitude of the local administration, which holds the show. In recent years, Punjabi and Bollywood singers have often been invited to the fair by offering them huge amounts, besides inviting cultural troupes from other parts of the country. It has more or less become a modern festival, especially for the young people to have fun and enjoy themselves. Local cultural troupes that have been trying hard to preserve the tribal culture get little attention and less money for their performances. The traditional items by local artistes are staged at odd times when the audience is thin. They are treated as ‘fillers’ to keep the rhythm going during the carnival time, especially for shoppers in the stalls. The volume of trade over the years has increased manifold but the availability of traditional items like pashmina wool, cheegu (mountain goat), found in parts of Tibet and upper Kinnaur, kalazira, chilgoza and other dry fruit is declining with each passing year. In fact, these have been virtually pushed out by modern goods like television, music systems, refrigerators and a host of house gadgets, which have invaded the Lavi in a big way in recent years. The traditional items now account for a small proportion only, mostly confined to Kinnauri market, especially created for the purpose in the fair. Unfortunately, the Kinnauri market gets not even 5 per cent of the total space reserved for business purpose to erect the stalls. This year, out of the 120-odd stalls, only 10 stalls were reserved for the Kinnauri market. As a matter of the fact, not only traditional festivals but also much of the tribal culture is now largely ignored at home. The resumption of the India-China border trade through the Ship-ki-La Pass has also not helped in restoring the old glory of Lavi. Chinese traders have shown little interest and it has so far been a one-sided affair with only a few Indians going across to China with their merchandise. They mostly bring back items like shoes, garments, thermos flasks and crockery. These days the fair is dominated by traders from Punjab, Haryana, Delhi and Uttar Pradesh who bring along modern goods available in the big city markets. They do brisk business during the fair. “We need to preserve our heritage, including festivals, because they are important characteristics of our ethnic identity”, said Renu Negi, a local woman settled in New Delhi who is engaged in making documentary films on the diverse tribal cultures of the country. She further said, “We are concerned that many traditional festivals are fading out and young tribesmen are ignorant of them. We need to rethink the ways in which we celebrate them”. Traditional festivals are an important element of the tribal culture, which originated from ancient rites related to religious and agricultural practices. There is a need to revitalise the traditional cultural practices of Kinnaur.
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Relic of the Raj The journey to the core of one’s being, in many ways, is often the hardest to make. Which is why we humans do much to nourish our bodily senses, but very little to nourish our souls. But when something offers both sensual pleasure and the cleansing of one’s soul, what would you call it? God’s own masterpiece, and that’s precisely what the Christ Church of Kasauli can be called. That Himachal (with its great scenic beauty, splendid heights and the aura of majestic charm) is known as the Devabhoomi, or the abode of Gods, is well known. And the fact that the state houses more than 2000 temples (Baijnath, Bajreshwari, Jwalamukhi, Chamunda Devi and Chintpurni being the most visited ones) is universally accepted too. But little is known about the tall churches, found mainly in the small hill stations that the British created as summer retreats. Among them is the Christ Church of Kasauli, built by the British in 1844. One of the relics of the Raj, the church is the oldest church built in Himachal and among the most beautiful. Stroll down the quiet country lanes, lined with aged chestnut trees. As you’ll head towards the upper mall, from the lower mall, you’ll come across the Christ Church, standing tall in the lap of stately Deodars. And entering through the stately gate, you’ll be greeted by a serene seclusion, a sensual treat. For, in the church premises, silence resounds, with not a single sound to be heard, save the sweet chattering of the birds. And lest you feel too lonely, weeds and wild flowers, swinging in Kasauli’s bracing, crisp air, offer some pleasant company. Besides, there’s a mini bookstall, selling books, CD’s and cassettes on Christ in English and Hindi. Finally, as you’ll step inside the church, two things are sharply noticeable. One, the well- proportioned, Anglican structure of the Church, with beautiful spires, buttresses and gothic arches. And secondly, a stained glass mosaic background to the imposing Jesus Christ Idol that lends colour and light to the otherwise very somber interiors. But as soon as one gets rid of the initial infatuation with the dark, antique, yet awe-inspiring interiors of this church, a bunch of well-lit candles greets you. “Make a wish by lighting a candle and place it in the tray with the other lit candles,” explains the patient priest to all non-Christians, with a smile. While making a retreat, one is empowered by a sense of regret. For the majestic church today is reclusive and unkempt. The little funds that visitors donate are being used for its maintenance, but in a strangely old-man-time manner. The Himachal Government should not just preserve but refurbish the church, for it is not just a glimpse into heaven but also a wonderful architectural heritage.
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NGO honours seven The Himotkarsh Sahitya Sanskriti Avem Jan Kalyan Parishad, a popular charitable non-governmental organisation (NGO) of Himachal Pradesh in its 8th annual convention held at Dalhousie recently, honoured seven distinguished personalities of Chamba district for their contributions in various fields. The Chief Guest, Prof Samdong Rinpochhe, Prime Minister of Tibetan Government-in-exile, conferred these awards upon Ms Devi Cherian, a woman social activist and an journalist, Mr Ritesh Chauhan, a young IAS officer, Mr Parkash Chand, a noted sculpture, late K.K. Soni for his multifarious community services, Col Kirpal Singh for his services to ex-servicemen families, Mr Jai Ram Thakur for civic services and Mr Ram Prashad Sharma, BDO, Salooni, for community service. Addressing the convention, Prof Rinpochhe the landmark achievements and contributions of ‘Himotkarsh’ and said it was a ‘role model’ for other NGOs to emulate. He also eulogised the role of Himotkarsh for the wellbeing of mankind. Prof Rinpochhe expressed concern over the serous challenges for the world facing today like economic disparities leading to injustice, violence, military exploitation, danger to environment vis-à-vis water and air and fight between various faiths and sects. Prof Rinpochhe said the Gandhian way of living and thoughts was, the only approach to solve all present day problems. He exhorted students to adopt Indian style of life and ensure good health, sound mind and clear thought and also spiritualism if they wanted to lead a successful and peaceful life. Speaking on this occasion, Kanwar Hari Singh, state president of Himotkarsh said the parishad was running a degree college for girls, a polytechnic institute for girls, a senior secondary school, an elementary school for slum areas children, vocational training instates and a Kershta Ashram besides running free dispensaries, counselling centres for youth and women and other multifarious activities in health sector especially for the prevention of blindness. Giving details about the activities of the Dalhousie branch of the Himotkarsh, the branch president Mr Sat Pal Sharma informed that the branch had honoured 20 student toppers of the Himachal Pradesh Board of School Education, distributed cash scholarships, mementos and medals to 103 students of Chamba district who were placed on the merit list of Himotkarsh scholarship Exam-2005. Mr Sharma also said 1125 doses of hepatitis-B to 375 poor children of ‘balbaris’ at Dalhousie had been given and corrective surgeries of polio-affected persons had been carried out free of cost.
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HIllside view We seldom manage to read the potential of people in the early days of our acquaintance. Extraneous factors like mannerism, dress, and contexts like our equation with the introducer influence our opinion. As a rule, we tend to either exaggerate others’ capabilities, or dismiss them lightly. I remember thinking that Minakshi Chaudhri was just a gentle light-hearted girl merely biding time before marriage, when I watched her chirping away in my Journalism classes in H. P. University. That was 16 years ago. Slim, quick-footed, with a smile that illuminated the surroundings at once, Minakshi was my first student ever in Himachal to become a journalist. Also, my first student ever to become an author— that too of so many well-acclaimed books. Even when The Indian Express picked her up for a reporter’s job in Shimla soon after the course in 1991, I had my apprehensions. Teachers who have seen their wards through the infancy of learning find it difficult to accept that those little ones of yesterday can now shoulder big responsibilities. Just the way parents fail to accept that their 50-year-old son would know what to wear when a cold wave is on. A mother would shout instructions, a father would grumble warningly about the biting breeze outside. For months, I would scan her news items and articles carefully to see whether she erred anywhere. She herself had tons of confidence—meticulous, dedicated and ever enthusiastic. Her bosses at both Chandigarh and here spoke about her sincerity and thoroughly professional approach. Straightforward and fearless, she reported things as she knew — totally ignoring pressures from politicians and senior bureaucrats. Within a year, Minakshi became a reference point for recruitment of my students. Newspapers in the region started asking me to send good candidates ‘like Minakshi’. Many who joined the profession from subsequent batches may not be knowing that this had made their entry into the media world easier. I was a bit disappointed when she chose to quit journalism a few years later. She married Rakesh Kanwar, a batch mate who joined HAS. She didn’t want the bureaucrat-husband to come under pressures because of her profession. Kanwar told her not to worry, but she had obviously read the changing political culture in the state well. That, I thought, was the end of another girl’s career after marriage. When she mentioned tentatively about writing a book (Exploring Pangi Himalayas—A world Beyond Civilization), we were all skeptical. I have seen over the decades, journalists producing miserable books. Their temperament, technique and language are so different. But their strength lies mostly in gathering and verifying information — that’s precisely what she focused on in her first few books. They both enjoy trekking. Observation, and pains-taking research produced A guide to Trekking in Himachal . All her five books have been received well in the market — the litmus test these days for every thing in life. Khushwant Singh, ruthless about quality of books, wrote impressively about her talent. The big break came when Rupa & Co, the top-notch publishers in Delhi picked up her manuscript on ghost stories. Minakshi had visited various sites in the hills where tales of ghosts were in circulation. She had interviewed people extensively, and recreated the experiences in a ‘story form’. Ruskin Bond wrote a delightful Foreword to it. The first edition of Ghost Stories of Shimla Hills was sold out within five months, a dream come true for an author. It has received rave reviews, and discussed in drawing rooms as also on the electronic media’s national channels. Her next book Himachal: A Complete Guide to the Land of Gods (Rupa & Co) has already become a hot favourite with both students preparing for competitive exams and outsiders wanting to get a good feel of the state. Inspiring parents, doting parents-in-law, and a bright husband with a positive outlook have set her firmly as an author. I have seen her warm-hearted mother-in-law spoil her fondly with things like food— and more importantly, with encouraging words. In Himachal, I have seen many girls no less talented than Minakshi. But lack of full-fledged backing from parents, husbands, and in-laws dampens their spirits and freezes the creative urge. Many families give them tentative support initially, but are happy to see them give up their creative pursuits slowly. For Minakshi, it was a dream come true, when she presented her latest book Destination Himachal (Rupa& Co) to the President of India Dr A.P.J. Abdul Kalam last month at Rashtrapati Bhavan, Delhi. The simple-mannered scholar-President has been an idol for her— like for those millions of youngsters in the country. But wait for a book she has started working on. My editorial instinct tells me it will be her best creative effort, and a winner in the world market. The subject is so exciting— but I cannot divulge it now!
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Shimla Diary Known more for its picturesque settings than sporting activity, the century-old nine-hole golfing glade at Naldehra will soon be upgraded into a golf course of international standard. Belatedly though the government has decided to extend it and develop it into a 18-hole playing field so that it becomes a venue for serious sporting activity. The state has been trying to have a full-fledged golfing field for the past more than a decade to take advantage of the increasing popularity of the sports to promote high- end tourism. Over the past two decades, several proposals were initiated but not pursued seriously. In fact two such proposals to develop golf courses at Baddi and Kulu in the private sector are still under consideration. Thoughts were given to the upgradation of Naldehra golf course in the past but nothing could be done as the Shimla-Tattpani state highway passed right through it. Ice was been finally broken by Mr Virbhadra Singh, Chief Minister, who asked the Public Works Department to realign the highway in such a way that enough space was available for developing nine additional holes. The department has prepared a Rs 97 lakh project under which the highway will be diverted towards left, 1 km short of Naldehra, and skirting around the golf course it will rejoin near the complex of the state tourism development corporation. The total length of the new double-lane road will be about 1.30 km. It is in the fitness of things that one of the oldest golf courses in the country, which has been a living monument to the British legacy, is put on the national and international sports map. Surrounded by spectacular cedars, the undulating glade fascinated Viceroy, Lord Curzon (1899-1904), no end. He took time off to frequent the serene and scenic spot to take respite from the tumultuous affairs of the state. He would abandon the majestic Viceregal Lodge, seat of the Viceroy, and camp in the woods of Naldehra for weeks together. His romance with the place led to the development of a nine-hole golf course in 1905. Lord Curzon himself suggested the layout of what was acclaimed to be the world’s highest golf course at that time. Painting the town red The Shimla Municipal Corporation has now decided to enforce the colour code for roofs in the newly merged areas of Tutu, Dhalli and Kusumpti. It has set the deadline of November 30 for painting the roofs of the post office red or green in the three localities, which have around 10,000 structures. The owners of buildings feel that the time of about one month for the purpose was too short and want the deadline to be extended. Meanwhile, the corporation is satisfied with the implementation of the code within the main city with almost all the roofs getting a fresh coat of paint. However, the code also lays down that the structures will have a slanting roof. This clause has not been implemented and many structures have flat concrete roofs like the plains, which require no paint. Wooing Dalits
The Rashtriya Swayamsewak Sangh (RSS) is using the Golwarkar Centenary Celebrations to woo the Dalits. It is an important part of its plans to check religious conversions by bringing these socially deprived sections to the mainstream. The Sangh has realised that the weaker sections will remain vulnerable to religious conversions until they became an integral part of the Hindu society. It was, thus, not surprising to see Bhag Ram Ghai, president of the local Balmiki Sabha, presiding over the “Vishal Hindu Sammelan” addressed by RSS supremo, Mr K. S. Sudershan, in the state capital. Present on the dais along with him were religious preachers, Swami Shukdev and Mahant Suryanath, who were at pains to explain that casteism had no place in Hindu community. The Sangh has set the target of organising one hundred such “sammelans”, some of which will be held in Balmiki colonies. The religious leaders will have lunch in the company of Dalits to prove their point.
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Carnival for special children
The two fun-filled days of sporting activity and a cultural bonanza transport them to a different world, where they forget their disabilities, enjoying life to the fullest. It is with this objective that the Bishop Cotton School’s Learning Centre for the Differently Abled children organised a two-day carnival for these special children on October 27. It is in this stress-free and non- competitive atmosphere that these children, forgetting their disabilities, enjoy each event, be it sporting activities or cultural events. Over 300 special children with different disabilities from 17 institutions from all over the state participated in the carnival. An annual feature, this was the seventh carnival for these special children. The events were planned in a manner whereby children could freely participate in each event. The fond memories of the two fun-filled days and returning home with an armful of certificates, medals and gifts and, of course, loads of appreciation from one and all made it a memorable event for them. For others, it was such a fulfilling experience to see these children glow with a sense of achievement that adds to their confidence as well. The Learning Centre of Bishop Cotton School has been providing a comprehensive programme on functional academics, social skills, daily activities, communication skills and pre-vocational skills to enable the differently abled children to face the world. An important thrust of the programme is to encourage its children to integrate with the children in regular classes to gain acceptance, social awareness and confidence. The carnival commenced with the arrival of children from all over the state on October 27 at Bishop Cotton School. They were put up on the Junior School premises and a cultural show was organised for them in the evening. The next day began with a march past followed by holding of sporting events. Games like ringing the bell, animal races, bhookha rakshas, skittles, and lucky dip were thoroughly enjoyed by the children. The carnival for the Differently Abled was organised for the first time in 2000 with the help and support of Chetna Sansthan and the HP Red Cross Society. To begin with, about 2,200 children from eight schools attended the festival. Effort has been made to encourage participation by new entrants so that it remains an ever-growing family, sharing and caring for one another’s joys and sorrows. Bishop Cotton School has made the carnival a part of its annual school calendar even as efforts are being made to enable participation of maximum children in this event.
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A shot of
tradition At the young age of 26, Ajay Saklani, a resident of Mandi, has made a modest start in documentary filmmaking. He is now looking forward to catch the images of the festivals and folk culture, which are fast fading from the memories of the people. It will come in a series of documentaries under what he calls ‘Preserve Indian Culture’ (PIC) campaign. Saklani was in Mandi to shoot for the ‘Pehad’, a Divali celebration in a Sarkaghat village in Mandi district. “It is a special Divali. The villagers make bundles of dry grass, tie them to the maize sticks and torch them in the night while walking in their fields. Then there followed a spectacular bonfire when all villagers join in, heralding the festival of Pehad, 10 days before Divali,” he says. Nowhere else Divali is celebrated like this. The traditional aura is fading, so is the spirit behind it, says Saklani. “We have shot the Pehad in the village for the documentary which will be telecast on the different channels soon,” he adds. Saklani cites examples how the changing tide of time has spelled doom for the traditional celebration of ‘Dyalee’, a victory lamps, ‘Vyah’, marriage celebration, ‘Jadolan’, the hair-cutting ceremony, ‘Bakra-Sajaa’, the main mela at the beginning of a month, ‘Nati’, a folk dance unique for its rhythm. “We are making documentaries on these festivals and celebration, capturing theirs images in their traditional gaiety and flavour so that the Generation Next will not forget them, Saklani comments. “We will move place to place and shoot the real images at the time when they are celebrated in the villages,” he adds. A product of Layallpur Khalsa College, Jalandhar, Sakalani started his career as theater artiste in 2002. “I worked with Surinder Kumar, documentary maker as non-leaner editor and assistant director in Poorva Grah, a film on caste system which was telecasted on the several channels,” Saklani said. He worked with the Army Wives Welfare Association, Vajra Corps (Indian Army), UNAIDS and others as an anchor. “Now I want to focus on my PIC project, making documentaries on rare cultural events in the state,” he adds.
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THE marriages, they say, are made in heaven. But for an increasing number of foreigners seeking spiritual solace and lure of the Malana creme in the valley of gods, marriages are decided and celebrated in what has emerged as an infamous drug haven in Kulu valley for the past one decade. 
