Call of adventure
Tribhuvan Nath

On road from Kulu to Manikaran

STEPPING into the mountain ranges of north-west Himachal Pradesh, one feels dumfounded by greenery and unbroken tranquility. Echoes of Shelley’s lines reverberate here:

M.M. Mehta is a familiar sight at Golf Club, Panchkula. At 60, he bears his years lightly as shown by his mettle, driving his 1993 Maruti 800 to Mc Leodganj, Head Quarters of Dalai Lama’s Tibetan Government and Rohtang, the tallest peak in this part of the Himalayas. His passion for adventure exceeds his passion for golf for he is a regular player at all the three clubs in the region.

Mehta admits he had never undertaken such a long car journey in the hills. It was a solo journey and that the car returned home without even a puncture during its 1,515 km journey is a feather in the cap of both. It was his quest for adventure which dictated his itinerary. He had no previous planning except for a map of the region.

The northern tract, from Chintpurni up to Dharamshala is Himachal’s temple belt — a blend of Hindu and Buddhist shrines. The two fast-flowing perennial rivers, tributaries of the mighty Indus, Ravi and Beas, have carved out strange patterns of natural architecture on its rugged ranges.

What’s remarkable, according to Mehta, is the fact that on this tract, old temple architecture has remained unspoilt by alterations and modifications and by plundering foreigners.

These temples were built long before cement was known. Rocks, big and small, were joined to raise the walls and roofed by slate or mud, both abounding in the neighbourhood.

The long, winding mountain highways hold the motorist under awe when passing under an overhead, rocky umbrella left hanging out of rock walls. Running almost parallel to the highway, Beas meanders rapidly over boulders and pebbles.

As one drives northwards, past the turning leading to Devika Rani Roerich’s estate, one gains sight of the eternally snow-bound Rohtang peak towering over the glacier, the source of the mighty Beas. View-towers along the highway help the traveller.

The metalled highway, from Chandigarh northward to Roop Nagar (Punjab) proceeds beyond Una over a rugged mountain terrain. From the temple town of Chintpurni, it links Dalhousie Cantonment, an Army health resort, taking in its stride Jawalamukhi, known for its eternal flame and temple deity. The Khajjar-Chamba sector has a vast glade surrounded by tall deodars that offer a fascinating spectacle. Towards the north lies Chamba, host to an ancient Hindu temple, library and museum. One turns north to visit the Dalhousie Cantonment, founded by British Army for its convalescing personnel. It is now well maintained by the Army. The drive along the Ravi up to Chamera, where Syul joins it, is "simply breathtaking". Mehta paid a visit to the Palampur tea factory en route Manali. Mandi is built on the principles of Vastu shastra. It is laid-out along the Hindu concept of harmonious living.

From Mandi, eastwards to Manali, via the district headquarters Kulu, the drive was, according to Mehta, "very exciting". The current of the river "splashes and pounds over rocks as it squeezes through gorges". Manikaran, another temple town on the way, offers the pleasure of a warm dip in its sulphur springs, a major attraction for tourists and patients. One finds here a temple and a gurdwara with an adjacent roof. Guru Gobind Singh and his panj piaras once camped here.

At Manali, a major attraction is the Hidimba temple, enshrining the footprints of Hidimba, the consort of Pandava prince Bhimma.

The 51-km drive from Manali to Rohtang (13,050 metres above sea level) is "extremely treacherous". The climb onward to the access route of the peak is "very steep, arduous and frightening". Surprisingly, Maruti 800 outsmarted the challenging climb. Both the car and its intrepid driver rested a while on the glacier below the peak as they drove back toward Shimla, Kufri and Chail.

Tourism holds a rich revenue potential for Himachal. Much remains to be done to reorient it and bring it upto the required standard. The government has extended a "lucrative package" to promote tourism this winter. It is designed to suit every pocket for "cheap board and lodging" is being offered as are discounts to woo travellers to the adventure circuit of the state.

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