City of Joy

Guru ki Nagri, Amritsar, with its is colonial architecture, sumptuous food, rich clothes and dazzling jewellery bowls over a visitor. The city is, at the same time, a shopper’s delight and a refuge for the devout. Anuradha Thakur takes us on a round of Sifti da ghar

A view of Harmandar Sahib, Amritsar’s most important landmark.

THE city of Amritsar has may faces. A legendary cultural fabric with pronounced historical trimmings, it is the seat of intense political and religious activity. A traveller’s delight, an archaeologist’s museum, and more than anything else a gourmet’s delight, Amritsar is all that and still much more. It’s an experience that surprises you with its unceasing vitality. Each day dawns anew on the Guru ki Nagri, bringing fresh experiences and political, industrial or religious activities.

The city has always been an important trading centre which has a bearing on the political and religious canvas of the entire region. Each tiny stir at Amritsar, each small decision and each little happening at the religious or political level, initiates developments across the entire Sikh community.

The Akal Takht, built by Guru Hargobind in 1609, faces Harmandar Sahib. This has been used for holding court, Sikh gatherings and issuing orders since the days of its maker.

The religious sanctity of the city draws people of all castes and creeds. Founded in 1588, this historical gurdwara was started by Guru Ram Dass and completed by his son and successor Guru Arjan Dev. People from all walks of life come here to seeking blessings, be it newly-weds, parents with new-born babies or kin of those ailing. Some come here to celebrate their happiness and others to ask for forgiveness. With its golden shrines glistening in the morning sun, this sacred place is a visited by millions of devotees every year, both from India and abroad, to pay their homage to the divine father.

About 10 lakh devotees gathered in the city to participate in the commemorative celebrations of the 400th year of installation of the Guru Granth Sahib in 2004. The whole city donned a festive look for the mega-event. Hotels, guest houses almost ran full with it being the best time of the year for all. People thronged eateries, even dhabas and performed sewa in the temple with enthusiasm.

Since the medieval times Amritsar has been an important centre for trade. Its proximity to Lahore attracted the traders from West and Central Asia. Even now, Amritsar continues to be a vital revenue collector.

On the industrial front too, Amritsar has been a focal point. A major portion of the city’s population gains their employment from industries—textile, rice, paint, machine tools, fan and last but not the least the hotel industry. Amritsar is a host to both large and small manufacturing units. The roots of the textile industry can be found deep back in time. It can boast of a few multinational firms in addition to smaller ones dealing in manufacturing of woollen fabrics, shawls, blankets, etc. These are also exported, bringing Amritsar into spotlight in yet another field. Cotton fabric and other dress material manufacturing units are also located here. Vendors of export houses with brands globally acknowledged have their outlets in the city.

Basmati, the most well-known variety of rice is grown in large quantities by the farmers around Amritsar. The quality rice produced is also exported.

The fan industry in Amritsar too has grown at a fast rate, supplying quality products all over India. The paint industry is caters to the needs to the neighbouring states in addition to the parent state. The hotel industry, powered by thousands of tourists who visit the city each year, serves as a bread-winner for many.

Amritsar is not simply a centre of ideology, religion or intellect but also a nodal point for trade in gold. The well-known Guru Bazaar, markets gold to almost the entire north India. Each shop in the market is like a storehouse of a variety of gold ornaments, each different in style and design. The numbers of shops dealing in these amaze the onlooker.

In the Golden Temple complex itself, near the Darshani Deodi, is a colossal bazaar for artificial jewellery. The fine workmanship and quality make it difficult to distinguish the artificial from the original. The entire set-up makes one wonder if it is yet another gold market as well. So when in Amritsar beware of crooks selling the artificial at the rate of the original.

The other katras which attract crowd include the Papad-Warian Bazaar - Katra Kathian, Mishri Bazaar, and Katra Mohan Singh. The aroma of the Papad-Warian Bazaar is appetising. Stacks of the home-made papad and wadian lie in the streets ready for customers to grab them. Close to it is the Mishri Bazaar which is home to all varieties of dry fruits. Shopkeepers claim that some of these varieties come from Afghanistan. Katra Mohan Singh is a gigantic reserve for stunning jewel-studded choora-bangles worn by brides and needless to say is a favourite for the womenfolk. Some of these are also bedecked with specks of gold.

A walk down the streets of Amritsar familiarises one with a treasure of mouth-watering, exotic ghee-laden delicacies savoured with huge glasses of delicious lassi. ‘Food’ is one of Amritsar’s greatest industries and the sheer variety with its appetising aroma will leave you licking your fingers. Amritsaris sure know how to whet your appetite and play the perfect host.

Amritsar is a treat for history lovers too. It boasts of a number of historical monuments which captivate their connoisseurs with their matchless aura. After the Golden Temple, the next in line is the Jallianwala Bagh. Everyone is aware of the gruesome incident that took place in this ground when thousands of innocent Indians were massacred, under the command of General Dyer of British Army as fire was opened on them within the confines of this garden on April 13, 1919. One can see the memorial been erected in the garden and the well which became the watery grave of a thousands as they jumped into it to save their lives. This bloodshed brought a revolution in the Indian freedom struggle and Gandhiji started his first Satyagraha in India as a response to it. Such has been the significance of the city since pre-Independence times.

The other places of historical significance include Saragarhi Memorial—a memorial to honour the brave Sikh soldiers who died while defending the Saragarhi Fort on the North-Western Frontier in 1897; Ram Bagh Palace, the summer retreat of the Lion of Punjab, Maharaja Ranjit Singh, still speaks volumes of the grandeur of his times; and Govindgarh Fort.

The colonial architectural style is evident in the Khalsa College, Railway Station and churches.

The devotees can also visit some holy places like the birthplace of Lord Ram and Sita’s sons, Luv and Kush on the outskirts of Amritsar and the famous Durgiana temple and Sitla Mandir. Durgiana temple, dating back to the 16th century, is dedicated to goddess Durga. Almost all devotees visiting the Golden Temple make sure to visit this auspicious place as well.

After a quick stop at all these sites, one can just make it to the Wagah Border to witness the Retreat ceremony. The India-Pakistan border is situated merely 35 km from the city. At dusk, when the sun is about to set, the Border Security Force (BSF) on the Indian side and Sutlej Rangers on the Pakistani side display a well-synchronised ceremony which involves lowering and retrieving the country’s national flag on each side simultaneously with due respect. The whole service, carried out to the sound of bugles, is cheered by the onlookers.

The start of the Amritsar-Lahore bus service has brought more importance to the city. Talks are on for starting the Nankana-Amritsar bus as well. Nankana Sahib, the birthplace of Guru Nanak, the first Guru of Sikhs and is in close proximity to Lahore. The place is revered by the entire community and houses many shrines connected with the youth and childhood memories of the great saint.

A window to diversity, the Amritsar Heritage Festival was organised last year by the Amritsar Heritage Society, in collaboration with the Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH) with the support of the state government. This festival included cultural programmes, art workshops, and performances by renowned artists and many more attractions.

From the world-famous Golden Temple to the streets of Amritsar, all offer a visual treat to the traveller. Amritsar has always held a pivotal position amongst the cities of Punjab.

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