|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Pankaj Vasudeva
travels to Pangong Tso in Ladakh and is bowled over by the sheer beauty of the world’s largest water body at an altitude over 4,000 m
It is a lake far away from civilisation in the barren landscape of Ladakh, Pangong Tso, whose pristine waters and unending expanse leave one spellbound. One of the biggest lakes in Asia, two-thirds of its area falls in China. It is 130-km-long and 7 kms wide. Located on the Changtang plateau in eastern Ladakh, around 140 km South-east of Leh, at an altitude of over 14,000 feet, Pangong Tso or ‘Hollow Lake’ symbolises nature’s craftsmanship. Its brackish water plays with the sunlight to produce a unique colour effect. The area falls under Army control and visitors require a permit from the Deputy Commissioner of Leh to visit it. To reach this lake, one has to travel 30 km down the picturesque Leh-Manali highway to Karu. The road splits here; one branch leads to Manali, while the other 113-km-long stretch leads to Pangong Tso. After verification of papers at the first Army checkpoint at Karu, one is ushered into a flat lush green valley. A few kilometres on and Sakti, a hamlet, welcomes you. From here the ascent begins. At this altitude it is almost surreal to see a valley draped in green. There are five Army checkpoints along the stretch to the lake. The checkpoint at Zingral (15,500 ft) is the second in the series where Army guards keep a copy of the permit for the lake. The mountains here are composed of loose rocks and the terrain is gravelly. A perpetual threat of landslide stalks this stretch as the road winds through hairpin bends. An arduous ascent amidst rocky terrain takes you to Chang La (at 17,350 ft), the third-highest motorable pass in the world. A trace of snow welcomes you along the road as one approaches the pass. One travels along the valley floor on a sinking road marvelling at the picturesque mountains which appear to have been painted in hues of green, violet and brown. One stumbles across civilisation as inhabitants of Tangste, a hamlet, keep themselves busy with their daily chores. A school of mountaineering is also situated here, which imparts training in various degrees of rock climbing. Boulders and rocks dot the area. Soon a pasture welcomes you with abundant fauna comprising yak, mountain cow, horse and sheep. This stretch amazes many by the subtlety with which it changes its terrain and contours. A rocky and gravelly expanse gives way to a pasture and the area soon turns sandy with streams leaving sand dunes on the floor. The road is ridden by causeways as streams flow over it on more than one occasion. Pangong Tso appears almost as suddenly as the terrain leading to it changes. Just two kilometres short of the lake, one passes by the gravelly terrain, the mountains open up to the left, exposing the tail of the lake. The first sight of turquoise blue water of the lake is refreshing. After crossing Lukung, the final Army checkpost, the lake rises out of its veil on the right. Nestled in the valley floor, this land-locked lake stretches through the whole length of Ruthog region towards neighbouring Chushul. Extending towards the Indo-China border, it enters the Chinese territory into Tibet. Tourists are allowed to go up to Spangmik, a hamlet around 8 km from Lukung, inhabited by Khampa tribe. Most of the freshwater inlets that feed the lake fall in the Tibetan territory. The lake can be up to 100 metres deep at certain points. The sun plays a crucial role in a startling display of colours on the lake’s surface. Its crystal-clear water plays with the sunlight to reveal bands of blue, green, purple, violet, orange and red on the surface, like a rainbow. The aquamarine water juggles between layers of emerald-green, midnight-blue, cyan and carmine at different levels, creating an awe-inspiring view accentuated by brown mountains in the backdrop. The water here seems to be a canvas painted in myriad shades by nature. With no outlet, the lake’s basin houses a wealth of mineral deposits formed by melting snow every year. Its waters have enough lime to form calcareous deposits on its banks. Barren snow-capped mountains composed of limestone flank the lake. Unlike other lakes in the area, Tso Moriri and Tso Kar, its ambience is calm as it is seldom windy here. The road, most of which is gravelly, stretches along the lake and keeps it company right up to the Indo-China border. The lake is home to a wide range of fauna ranging from migratory birds to mammals of various species. The black-necked Siberian crane, bar-headed geese and waterfowl can be spotted at the lake. One can camp in tents by the lake and soak up the silence of its water and the serenity of the landscape.
|
|||
|
|
|||
