INTERVIEW
Ban the word ethnic: Valaya
Shveta Pathak

Ace fashion designer J.J.Valaya has today become an industry by himself — an insignia of class and style. After spending 16 years in the fashion industry, the sardar with style feels the last decade in the Indian fashion industry was evolutionary and now it has a definite future in international markets. As the founder member on the Board of Governors of the Fashion Design Council of India, Valaya has taken up serious issues plaguing this industry. He started the House of Valaya in 1992 and markets the JJ Valaya brand both in the country and overseas.
The style guru, recently in Ludhiana to give an address at the newly started Sportking Institute of Fashion Technology, spoke about his tryst with the fashion industry and the prospects it holds. Excerpts from an exclusive interview:

You were doing chartered accountancy and then took up fashion, a field that was not considered lucrative then.

That was way back in 1987. Accountancy would have been a good career option, but I soon realised I wanted to deal with figures of a different kind. That was what made me join the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) in 1989. Being a Sikh, many even thought my appearance was unfit for the industry. But my designs were liked and, thankfully, I did not have to go in for attention-seeking measures like wearing a ponytail or streaking my hair.

Initially, it was not very easy. But then nothing comes on a platter. That was perhaps the beginning of the evolutionary stage and the last decade has witnessed tremendous changes in the Indian fashion industry, which no doubt have given it global exposure. Now this industry has a definite future.

Designers today are opening stores. But even now most of the pr`EAt line is unaffordable for the middle class.

Earlier designer wear was considered ‘approachable’ by a select section, but today we have reached a stage where it is available to all. Designer collections, I am sure, would soon become even more affordable.

Indian fashion designers have been quite active in their endeavour to attain a global platform.

See, a global platform is an altogether different ballgame. Indian designers, though not many, have managed to make their brands visible in other countries. However, costs of marketing, distribution etc are pretty high if they have to sell their brands in another country. It would take time for designers to reach that stage. Some designers, including me, have managed that.

Is it true that Indian fashion weeks lag behind international fashion?

It is absolutely false. Any fashion week, globally, shows designs six months prior to the marketing of a collection. India too is following the trend.

What do you say about the recent charges of plagiarism against designers?

It is sad but that happens in every industry. The fashion industry, however, has not ignored it. We have formed associations to fight against all such practices.

What should our designers do to make Indian fashion globally acceptable?

The word ‘ethnic wear’ should be banned. We need to have a vision and present designs that are timeless. It should be contemporary Indian clothing that anyone can just pick up and wear. Besides, it must carry an Indian signature.

Do not wait for opportunities to come to you. Look for them instead. Be hard-working, sincere and passionate. Creativity needs passion to be pursued and that would take you a long way.