Haute Line
Skirts for all seasons
Saloni Kaul

Who is a "skrit woman"? One who can never be caught in a saree, salwar-kameez, trousers or jeans. You can spot her at all places, be it in the office, airport lounges, shopping malls or in the office. And, she need not necessarily be young.

But what has taken fashion pundits by surprise is the way she has got around to creating coverts out of non-skirt women. Indeed, what began as a casual fad a couple of seasons ago has now caught on big time with even the flea markets offering swirling numbers at throwaway prices.

"It has become an almost exclusive Indian fashion statement," says image consultant Prasad Bidapa. "The modern long skirt is a stylish, chic version of the lehnga or ghagra — the broadly flared, printed or plain full-length skirt traditionally worn by women in North India." The most popular options are:

Crinkled: This is the most basic skirt, which, till the other day, was considered casual wear. The crinkly texture and gathers at the waist make it easy to maintain and lend a cool, carefree look. Combine with a matching Mao-collar kurti or embroidered jacket and you are set for a formal do.

Wraparounds: As a variation of the traditional lungi-skirts, this has by and large been restricted to beachwear. Most people tie it around the waist like a sarong over their swimsuit. And, the brighter the prints, the more colourful the look.

Fitted A-Line: Hugging the hips with an A-silhouette, these skirts are usually in printed hand-spun cotton. Ideal for office wear, it can be teamed with a formal shirt or top, a broad belt, scarf and boots to match. The best part about this skirt is that it makes you look taller.

Gathered kalli: This is ideal for those with heavy hips as it has a way to hide those unwanted bulges. Wear it with a sleeveless top, loose shirt, crisp white blouse or a sequined jacket and you cannot go wrong. Versatility apart, it carries a look of sophistication and understated chic.

Layered skirts: Most popular with college kids, these have come to invade the dance floors of parties and discotheques. Women with heavier bodies should avoid them. Since the bottom layers are full, these skirts are fun to dance in.

Designers generally trace the origins of these long skirts to the Rajasthani lehnga. Some feel that ever since the bohemian chic hit the ramps with Sabyasachi Mukherji, Priyadarshini Rao and Malini Ramani, skirts became the ultimate fashion statement for westernised Indian woman.

"Long skirts are an essential part of the anthropological history of India," avers Aparna Chandra, whose collection at the last Lakme India Fashion Week (LIFW) was a rage. "They work very well with Indian women, who tend to be heavy in the lower halves of their bodies."

"Right now, retail space for long skirts is certainly more than that for short skirts," observes Raghavendra Rathore, known for his organza and silk skirts, worn over a petticoat.

One explanation for the popularity of skirts is that it offers good mix of tradition and modernity. It is neither westernised as trousers nor traditional as sarees and salwar-kameezes. And yet, it can be worn to the marketplace and boardrooms with equal facility.

The second explanation offered by designers is its versatility — the fact that it makes accessorising a dream. For instance, kundan jewellery goes well with a black brocade top teamed with a black kalli (multi-panelled) skirt. The ensemble even works for a formal occasion, like a wedding reception. And for a night out, a spaghetti strap top with a crinkled skirt and chunky jewellery would be great.

But the biggest plus for skirts is its practicality. Apart from lending a cool, breezy feel in hot, humid conditions, the skirt manages to hide love handles and heavy thighs which most Indian women find most embarrassing. — MF

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