Patola is a hot favourite for festivals. It is a double ikat in fine silk in which both the taana and baana are tied and dyed separately and then woven into beautiful patterns. The motifs are traditional: could be of flowers, animals, peepal leaves, floral baskets, jewels, dancing woman, etc. Pochampallis of Andhra Pradesh are bigger and bolder in patterning. Since it is a single ikat, it is less expensive.

The crisp Kota dorias of Rajasthan, which are net-like, airy and transparent, look cool for formal dos. The fabric is alternately woven in cotton and silk in an open weave. Earlier available in checks and stripes, now you will also find them in different jaal patterns. The golden zari in borders and pallav imparts a touch of formality. Similar such fine sarees are the transparent muslins of Madhya Pradesh called Chanderis and Maheshwaris. Silk warp gives them a crisp sheen, while these are also famous for the dhoop-chaun or shaded effect of two colours. Jamdanis of Uttar Pradesh are also sheer muslins or silks with zari patterns or jaals.

Next come the well-known bandhanis, gharcholas, shiboris and lehriyas of Rajasthan. They are bright, intricate and perfect for festive occasions. The all-over dots, medallions, diagonals, colourful bands are available in a number of colours and combinations. These when defined with embroidery or crystals become all the more beautiful and add to the ethnicity.

Banarasi brocades come with rich zari borders. Their designs have a strong Mughal influence. They are densely patterned and look three-dimensional. The heavy silk brocades are called kincabs, while the delicate ones are called tanchoi. These are royal and rich-looking sarees, ideal for celebrations. Abrawans are transparent brocades with muslin or organza base and fine silk or zari patterns. Tarbanas are tissue brocades, which look like woven water. Balucharis of Murshidabad are very traditional. Their designs depict scenes from the Mahabharata and the Ramayana.

South Indian sarees are known for their running borders in contrasting shades to the field colour. Kanjivarams, Murukku Pattu, Kornad are heavy silk sarees in tightly twisted threads. Thick zari threads are used for supplementary warp and weft patterning. The colours of the end piece and the border are generally same and contrast with the main colour of the field.

Though sarees with woven designs are more expensive, the embroidered ones have a charm of their own. They provide us more options with the fabric, design and the adornments. The embroideries of different regions can be typical, yet flexible enough to give a new look. It could be the multicoloured kashida of Kashmir or kasuti of Karnataka in bright geometrics on dark backgrounds. White on white chikankaris or patti work and cutwork with mukaish or Swarovski crystals look simply scintillating. Kanthas of Bengal on tussar look very graceful too. These can be a good change from the overused zardosi or heavy dabka work on sarees.

Last but not the least, there are the lovely ethnic block prints of Jaipur, kalamkaris of Andhra Pradesh, khari or tinsel prints of Saurashtra and Kutch, and madhubanis and batiks. Kalamkaris showcase motifs from the Hindu mythology. Batiks look original in each piece because of the uniqueness of the cracks.