Saturday, September 20, 2003
M A I N   F E A T U R E


PILGRIMS’ TRAIL
High adventure on way to Kedarnath
Pushpender Singh Gusain

Khatling Glacier surrounded by lofty peaks
Khatling Glacier surrounded by lofty peaks

AMONG the numerous popular treks in Garhwal Himalayas, one from Ghuttu to Kedarnath via Khatling and Mayali pass is for those looking a little more adventure and high altitude trekking. Khatling Glacier is the source of river Bhilangna which merges with Bhagirathi at Tehri. The entire trek can be split into eight days to make it interesting and enjoyable.

Ghuttu (5030 feet), the last bus terminus for this trek, is about 140 km from Dehra Dun and can be approached via Rishikesh, Tehri and Ghansali. It is a beautiful hamlet perched in the lap of majestic mountains amidst wide-open Bhilangana valley. Ghuttu is last important town with modern facilities on way to Khatling and people from distant places in this region visit it to purchase essential items.

Reeh (7040 feet), the next destination, is 10 km from here. There is jeepable road up to Devling, a large village 4 km from Ghuttu, but it is in very bad shape. After Devling the trek is through dense forest of oak and pine and in the month of May and June one can find barberries, raspberries and wild strawberries on this way. It is a comfortable trek along the tumbling Bhilangna up to Reeh.

 


Reeh has a GMVN (Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam) guest house and is situated on the gentle slopes of a towering mountain. The people here live like high landers. Almost everyone wears traditional dress and have very little contact with outside world. People are engaged in agriculture and traditional profession of goat and sheep keeping. The residents of Reeh shift to Gangi in summer. Gangi (8550 feet) is a large village housing more than 150 families. It is summer abode for the villagers of Reeh, Nalan and Devkhuri. People shift here on an auspicious day from their respective winter abodes in the month of June and again return in winter. Due to aloofness of the village, marriages take place in village itself but among different castes. Negi, Rawat and Rana are the dominant castes in the village. In summer, when snow starts melting, the villagers take their herds for grazing to green meadows in higher reaches and in winter to lower hills.

A view of Chowki, near Khatling Glacier
A view of Chowki, near Khatling Glacier

Pachri is 15 km from here. The trek is mostly along Bhilangna and is damaged at a number of places due to landslides but alternative routes have been developed which are arduous. Kalyani (8860 feet) is about 5 km from Gangi. It is a good camping site. The trek till Virodh is full with vegetation and encompasses greenery. Virodh, a scenic spot, where villagers and trekkers usually have a breather is 2 km from Kalyani.

The 10 km trek from Pachri to Khalting is very tough and it tests the strength of trekkers in full measure. Also a large number of snow-bridges are to be crossed which at times are very slippery. A large part of this trek is along the ridge and cool winds help in invigorating the tired bodies. There are a large number of cascading water falls on way presenting a mesmerising sight. Other little known places on way are Rikduna, Bhelbagi, Bhumka, Tamba Kund, Bijlu l and Bijlu 2. With the change of terrain and altitude the flora also keep changing. Bhoj trees are found between 10,000 to 12,000 feet and bugyals with colourful flowers of different hues are also dominant at his height. Above 12,000 feet tree line almost comes to an end.

Khatling (12,080 feet) provides a panoramic view of closeby lofty peaks and glaciers. On a clear day, snow mantled summits of these peaks provide a mesmerising pattern of colours with the fall of rays of rising sun. Across Khatling lies Chowki bugyals. It is vast stretch of posture land.

Zero point is about 2 km from Khatling and one has to locate and make his own way through the gravel and huge boulders.

Masar Tal is only 7 km from here but it is the time, which matters in hills. It is a steep ascent and takes almost five to six hours but the nature’s bounty is in abundance through out the route. There are a number of beautiful lakes with tranquil and serene water on the way. Snow bound and lofty peaks surround Masar Tal from three sides which are also its feeder. The lake with its limped and crystal clear waters and serene surroundings introduces with the mystic and magic of nature.

Masar Tal to Masar Top is a steep inclination through snow and rocks. Being a high altitude trek, it becomes more strenuous at the lack of oxygen. There is danger of avalanche and land slide on this way and therefore it should be crossed before noon as it is considered a safe time.

It takes about two hours from Masar top to Mayali Pass. The entire distance to be covered is through snow. After Mayali Pass it is downward 7 km journey to Vasuki. The nascent green grass just exposed after the melting of snow appears very lively.

The path from Vasuki Tal to Kedarnath is just 7 km but it makes a difference of 5,000 feet in altitude. For 2 km it is gradual but continuous climb and then for another 5 km one keeps descending on a mountain inclined at almost 80 degree. Kedarnath township presents a breathtaking view from top and one finds himself in the vale of Kedar encircled by high mountains clad in white.

Kedarnath shrine, one of the 12 joytirlingas of Lord Shiv, is situated at an altitude of 11,735 feet between Gangotri and Alaknanda valley. Kedar is another name of Lord Shiv. According to legend, the Pandavas after having won over the Kauravas in Kurukshetra war, felt guilty of having killed their own brothers and sought the blessings of Lord Shiv for redemption. He eluded them repeatedly and while fleeing took refuge at Kedarnath in the form of a bull. On being followed he dived into the ground, leaving his hump on the surface. The remaining portions of Shiv appeared at four different places and are worshipped there as his manifestations. The construction of grey stones temple is a marvel of human endeavour and ingenuity. Temple is a finest piece of art and its architecture is a unique blend of central Indian and Uttarakhandi style. The front portion of the temple is known as garba-griha and at the rear is Sabha Bhawan. In the garba-griha, images of Kunti, Pandavas Draupadi, Krishna and Ganapati have been carved on the stones laid in the walls. The five-headed idol of Shiva is in the middle. In the Sabha Bhawan, a triangular icon covered by a canopy represents the hinder parts of divine buffalo form of Lord Shiva. Not much is known about the history of temple. Legends ascribe its construction to Shankaracharya but other sources believe its origin of much earlier period. The temple is closed in the month of October or November and opened at the end of April or early May.

The large glacier which forms the backdrop for the temple is the source of Mandakini. The Samadhi of Adiguru Shankracharya is located at the back of Kedarnath temple. Lake Chorabari or Gandhi Sarover (pond) is about 1 km from Kedarnath. It is referred to as Gandhi Sarover because Mahatma Gandhi’s ashes were submerged in this lake.

Gaurikund, the nearest bus terminus from Kedarnath, is 14 km. The entire trek winds along the tumbling and twisting Mandakini through rich green forests. Gaurikund is about 260 km from Dehra Dun. The entire Bhilangna valley from Kedarnath to Rudraprayag, where Mandakini meets Alaknanda, is one of the most beautiful and fascinating in Garhwal. Its charm remains etched in memory.