MANY call it a fashion classic. Others describe it as the "fabric that refuses to fade". But the most telling compliment to the denim was paid by a fashion writer in 1969 in the American Fabrics magazine: "It is the world’s oldest fabric and yet, remains eternally young."

In India, denim is staging a comeback after a brief lull of two years. Designers like Priyadarshini Rao, Sabyasachi Mukherji and Deepika Govind are rediscovering its magic, just as major brands like Avis, Wrangler and Lee Jeans are back in action in a big way.

The lull after the nineties is generally attributed to a "natural downslide" in fashion trends worldwide. Explains designer Suneet Verma: "Denim has always been in vogue, but people had just run out of ideas. As a result it was seen as something ready to wear, minus a style element."

Elaborates Suparna Ganguli of Lee Jeans: "Denim has never gone out of style, but it has been through various phases. In the past couple of years, the youth experimented with khakis, chinos and branded sportswear pants. But they still wore denim. The only thing was that it had to be in different finishes, new cuts shapes or in the form of authentic vintage jeans discovered in second-hand thrift shops."

The turnaround to patronising regular jeans stores and designer labels is attributed to international couturiers like Tom Ford and John Galiano who, in 2001, began working around traditional beaded, beat-up, torn-knee Gucci blue jeans. Their impact on the fashion scene is being felt in India just now.

So there’s Priyadarshini transforming the workman’s fabric into "something sexy and suitable for evening wear". Starting out with over-dyed denims in deep colour like emerald green, burgundy and charcoal, she has stabilised to a "purer look" in predominantly blue shades.

"I have surface washed denim in varying weights and thickness," she informs. "Lightweight shirts for men and frayed dresses for women are the highlights of my present collection. If fashion is to be seen as synonymous with constant recycling, then it can be seen in denim as well."

What sets the latest styles apart are the various washes available. Clearly, the ‘dirty denim look’ is out and in its place are clean, treated options. For instance, Lee’s Photon range is in the basic blue fabric, but it has laser streaks and cross hatches running both ways in varied colours.

"Where jeans are concerned, the 3 F’s are vital: fit, finish and fabric," advises Suparna. "Low waisted jeans are in vogue and if you have a waist to flaunt, try out the Lee Freeburn range for men and Leola for women that comprises ultra low-waisted and flaired jeans."

Designers going pret are, however, concentrating on detailing with embroidery and prints. Deepika, for instance, works with patchwork, frills and tie ‘n’ dye on jeans which have been put through several washes and laser prints.

"I have always been a denim lover but never thought I could contribute to accentuating the fabric until a year ago," says Deepika. "Now with mix ‘n’ match being used on denim, it has suddenly become very individualistic. At every fashion show, denim has become the buzzword."

Agrees Sabyasachi, the designer who made a big splash at the last Lakme India Fashion Week (LIFW) for his funky styles: "Today denim has made a crossover between street-wear and up-market fashion. I personally believe in the blue, faded look, but I would probably use denim with brocade or team it up with old Indian textiles to achieve something different."

Niki Mahajan is another designer who displays her versatility in the use of an extravagant variety of embroidery techniques like sequins and zardozi on denim. In vibrant hues of red, blue, violet and green, her denim ensembles have always stood out as breathtaking works of art.

The best tribute to the ‘hottest fabric of the season’ is however, being made by Rocky S in his latest collection. In colours of clay, slate, midnight blue and indigo, his jeans, skirts and shirts present a bohemian story with dyed, shredded, patch-worked, asymmetric, embroidered and beaded treatments. These are teamed with funky T-shirts and jackets.

— MF