Saturday, October 12, 2002
M A I N   F E A T U R E


ZEROING IN ON...
The crystal ambassador of Indian fashion

J. J. Vallaya"MY creations are characterised by ornate Indian embroidery. In my Fall Winter collection 2002, which I showed recently in Delhi, I have once again used embroidery and Swarovski crystals," remarks JJ Vallaya, the only designer to be the official ambassador for Swarovski.

He has targeted this collection at his non-resident Indian patrons, for in the last four years, there has been an increase in the number of NRIs who want his clothes. And since he is the official ambassador for Swarovski, he has been using their crystal components in the garments designed by him.

Elaborating on his recent collection, the celebrated designer says: "My signature line this time is timeless. I feel that all this interest in kitsch clothing and designs is just a passing fad. I have five collections that have utilised various embroidery techniques, including handwork using silk threads, beads, metal and moccasin, besides custom printing and weaving artistry. These garments have been sprinkled extravagantly with a kaleidoscopic range of Swarovski crystals. The collection’s colour palette goes from soft pastels to brighter Indian hues, and finally makes a splash with rich jewel tones. I have also used a lot of blue this time.

 


"For me, fashion has always had its own language. I can go on and on about my collection, but I prefer to let my clothes do the talking. That is why I never divulge any particular details about my garments. This year, too, I will only be showing Indian garments because I strongly feel that we should stick to making what we are good at. Indian designers must capitalise on what is related to India, since we have such fantastic weavers, handicrafts, embroideries and colour sensibilities.

"My collection is very largely inspired by garments worn by erstwhile royal families. Even my fashion shows attempt to explore royalty. In my last birth I must have been a Maharaja. I have this thing about royalty — that kind of scale, that kind of impact.

"Age-old, traditional styles have been another inspiration for the collection. Ageing brings in its own nuances, its own sense of history. I do not like the feel of the new. Every element in my work must have a sense of history. It must bring in the past; it must recreate and restore tradition. Royalty, for me, is history, it’s the past. It’s the past larger than life. I try to replicate that larger than life quality in my work. I make an attempt to recapture our most glorious period, when the rajas and maharajas nurtured the arts and lived with such style and grandeur. I love that period of Indian history and will always be inspired by it. It’s like Indian art. Very rich, very original."

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