Sunday, January 20, 2002		Article

Mizoram: A land as enchanting as its people
V. S. Mahajan

IT is a rare delight to be in this far eastern corner of the country, in the land of the Mizos. Dotted with hills and thick forests with the beautiful background of blue mountains, this land is indeed one of mystery and grandeur. A number of Mizos still reside in Myanmar and there is regular communication between them and the Mizos living on the Indian side. A good part of trade — though prohibited otherwise — is through this route. A number of foreign goods are smuggled into Mizoram and are freely available in the bazaars and shops of Aizawl and other places.

On the western side Mizoram faces the hills of Chittagong and a large number of tribes people from this area — they are known as Chakmas and are Buddhists — sneak into Mizoram in search of better pastures. In fact, the borders of Mizoram are quite porous and this fact has been exploited by Mizo terrorists to escape into other lands, as well as to smuggle arms and other material into India.

With a population of less than a million and a land area of 24,000 sq km, Mizoram has a sparse population. Nearly one third of this population is concentrated in the capital town of Aizawl which is crowded beyond imagination and has several high-rise buildings. Unstable soil and a tendency towards seismic activity makes construction in this area risky.

Aizawl, the headquarters of the state government, is a modern town where all the latest goods and facilities are available. From everyday goods to the latest electronic items, everything is available in its bazaars. Little surprise, then, that the average Mizo house has several modern goods, especially music systems, as Mizos are extremely fond of music.

Thick jungles, hilly tracts and non-availability of plain surface, make agriculture, which continues to be the major activity of the local population, a difficult proposition. Agricultural land has mostly to be carved out by burning forests or following the practice shifting cultivation. In this process almost 25 per cent of rich forest land gets converted into wasteland. This increases the chances of violent storms from across Bangladesh during the months of March and April which cause a good deal of damage.

The government has been trying its best to reduce the area under jhum (shifting) cultivation by providing facilities for settled cultivation on cleared land as well as by giving a boost to alternative land-saving activities like dairy farming, poultry, horticulture, coffee and rubber plantation. However, progress is quite slow and even now shifting cultivation dominates agricultural practices.

Over 90 per cent of Mizos are Christians. Mizoram is the second most literate state in the country, after Kerala. Here women also enjoy a high rate of literacy and lead an active life. Most women are engaged in trade and business. In fact, one would find a large number of shops in Aizawl that are run by women.

A large number of churches have sprung up all over the state. Practically every village has a church and Mizos are quite dedicated to church life. Sunday prayers are rarely missed and a good part of the day is also spent in the church.

Most villages are located close to the roads or are easily accessible. Unlike villages in other parts of the country, Mizo villages have a touch of modernity and even tinned foods and other modern products are available here. In Mizoram there is very little difference between the rural and urban life. Children, women and men are all well dressed and one hardly comes across poverty.

Mizos, both men and women, are very fond of music. They have also created their own local music which is quite pleasing to listen to.

Non-Mizos are not allowed to enter Mizoram without valid papers which are issued by the state authority and bear the name and photograph of the visitor, the purpose of visit, the period of stay and the local address. Incidentally, this system is also prevalent in Nagaland and Arunachal Pradesh. The main idea behind this system, which was introduced by the British, is to protect the local identity. Non-tribals from other area are also not allowed to buy property, land or settle down in these areas.

Thus Mizoram is a protected area. This is a major reason why outsiders could not invade it.

A visit to this land is quite rewarding. The climate in Mizoram is pleasant throughout the year. However, one should avoid coming here in the monsoons as the rainfall here is quite heavy.

Though there is air service between Kolkata and Aizawl, but it is undependable due to unpredictable weather and fog at Aizawl. The land route is more reliable. A journey undertaken by road would also enable one to enjoy the enchanting scenery. It is indeed a breathtaking sight that one would miss if one travelled by air. There are comfortable state and private buses plying over the 180-km long distance between Silchar and Aizawl. At both Silchar and Aizawl there are comfortable state circuit houses where one can stay.More details can be had from the liaison officers of Mizoram in Delhi, Kolkata, Guwahati, Shillong and Silchar. One could also get entry or inner line passes (as these are called) from these offices.