The Sunday Tribune - Spectrum

India’s fortunes in cricket may be down, we may still have a large percentage of people living below the poverty line and political chicanery may be on the rise. So what? We have made our mark in the world of beauty! Sushmita Sen, Aishwarya Rai, and, now, Yukta Mookhey have been acclaimed as beauty queens. Their success has triggered off a ‘beauty revolution’ and more and more girls from middle class homes and small towns are participating in beauty contests. The beauty business, by way of parlours, and sale of beauty aids, is booming. The media too has pitched in. Never before has it devoted so much space to coverage of beauty events and related topics.

All this in conservative and tradition-bound India? Yes, and there are no squeaks of protest from our self-appointed custodians of morality. Mulund, a BJP stronghold of conservative Gujaratis and South Indians, organised a ticker-tape parade for Yukta. "This girl has brought honour to our suburb", enthused local BJP bosses eager to be photographed with the winner. In distant Bareilly, people are still celebrating the emergence of their own Priyanka Chopra as the latest Palmolive Femina Miss India World.

How are Indian women making a mark in the world of beauty? Seema Gopujkar, well-known beautician who runs a beauty parlour in Bandra, a fashionable Mumbai suburb,claims: "Indian women are one of the most attractive in the world, particularly their eyes. Secondly, the West is now under an ‘eastern spell’. Our clothes, jewellery, arts and beauty are all greatly appreciated. This may be a passing phase, but it has done our beauty queens a lot of good."

Gopujkar points out that Indian beauty queens are now thoroughly trained for international contests. Correct posture, walking the ramp, knowledge of current affairs, the ability to carry themselves with poise and dignity have all been acquired. The earlier successes of Aishwarya Rai and Sushmita Sen have given today’s contestant the confidence that they too can win.

Such preparations, however, are the result of changed attitudes in society and increasing awareness that being beautiful is not all that bad! Vimla Patil, former editor of Femina and a pioneer in the field of beauty contests, explains, "When we started the contest in 1964, our aim was to bring Indian women from different states together and forge a better understanding them. I visited hundreds of schools and colleges and pointed out that the contests were not confined to physical beauty, but also other qualities in the participants."

In the early days most of the contestants were Parsis Christians and Sindhis. With the emergence of Zeenat Aman, Tina Munim and Juhi Chawla as winner of the beauty contests, links were established with the Hindi film world. According to Vimla Patil, contestants of the Femina contest, 1993, were not required to pose in bathing costumes. Parents were also actively involved in the contests of those days.

The modern generation of young women is, however, different. They live in a world of satellite television which features fashion prominently. Their favourite magazines are the upmarket glossies. The market is flooded with the most modern beauty aids and internationally known firms are freely marketing their products. Even villages and small towns have beauty parlours and beauticians. They make big money through bridal make-up. Among affluent families, the choice of a beauty parlour has become a status symbol.

Modelling, films, media exposure and chances of travel in five-star comfort motivate today’s young women to try and look their best and enter hundreds of contests held all over the country. Says 19-year-old Maithili Gangadhar, a second year college student of Mumbai, "Of course, I am keen on studies, but there is no harm in getting some modelling assignments during my spare time." Maithili had her portfolio done by famous fashion photographer Gautam Rajadhya-ksha. She is now awaiting the big break, having modelled for three or four products. "So many of my friends and the girls I know are keen to do a bit of modelling," she points out. "The money is good and we need not bother our parents for pocket money. And if you reach the top, the sky is the limit."

Ad and modelling agencies scout city colleges looking for suitable girls and boys. "We need a steady supply of fresh faces," points out the senior- most model co-ordinator in the city. "The industry needs new faces to market products."

Both Rasna Behl and Vimla Patil speak eloquently about the changing trends and different approaches in the beauty business. "Yes, there is a real awakening in the beauty business," says Vimla Patil. "Today’s girls are very much on their own and are into this because they want to be, and not to please others. They are more independent and more professional. And since many more girls are now in the business, the competition for the high positions is fierce."

"The basic approach towards beauty contests and modelling careers has changed a lot over the years," says Rasna. "Some 10 or 15 years back, girls entered these contests and professions purely on temporary basis. They could make some money, become famous and then get married. But today’s girls have long-term goals in mind. Some of the beauty queens in the past entered films, while others with the passage of time became middle-aged models for household products".

As social prejudices against a career in the beauty business gradually disappear, changes in the family relationships are bound to emerge. In today’s liberated society, men and women have plenty of opportunity to fall in love and choose their own life partners. Parents have to reconcile to this. Rasna Behl remembers an ad she had made in the 1960s which showed her placing her head on the shoulders of a young man. "Oh, my relatives were very upset," she laughs.

Today, models and beauty queens live in a world which has a fair amount of hanky-panky going on. But Behl is not unduly worried. "Young women now know the ropes. They know how to take care of themselves. Parents have to understand that times have changed and they cannot chaperon the daughter all the time."

Are beauty contests and modelling assignments nowadays more on physical beauty? "It is true", agrees Rasna Behl. "I would blame the media for this obsession. Look at the photographs they publish. The media has always glorified women with great bodies. Everyone appreciates good looks. Even while flying we would like to be served by air hostesses who are attractive and good at their work."

"Appreciation of an interest in good looks and grooming need not be confined only to women", observes Vimla. "Look at Vilasrao Deshmukh, the Chief Minister of Maharasthra, and his predecessor, Sharad Pawar. They belong to different generations and their views on being well-groomed appear to be quite different!"

Yet the current obsession with beauty does not find favour with many women. Prof. Nandini Sardesai, who teaches in Mumbai’s Xavier’s College, finds the entire beauty queen business irksome. "My views are shared by many of my students," she adds. "The statements of the beauty queens that they will work for the welfare of the world and also solve its problems, their meetings with the President, Prime Minister and other national leaders, are a bit silly and part of a put-on show. These girls have been brainwashed to spout these inanities. Their final goal is the commercial Hindi cinema" says Sardesai.

She explains how the ‘beauty queen’ mania has gripped the middle classes, "It is their way of catching up with the celebrities. Victory at beauty contests is now a status symbol. Do you know that Yukta Mookhey was not even allowed to wear jeans by some members of her family? But today, she acts totally liberated."

There is plenty of money available for the suburban beauty contests, like Miss Borivili, Miss Dahisar, Miss Dadar and so on. "This is having an adverse impact on students," laments Sardesai. "Some of my students remain absent for long periods because they were being trained to take part in these contests."

Moral values may change, studies may suffer, but the beauty business is here to stay. Says Gopujkar, "Today, my clients travel abroad and subscribe regularly to expensive glossy magazines. They demand the best products, the best treatment, and damn the cost!"

Fortunately, thanks to the economic liberalisation, the markets are full of expensive, international beauty brands. And more are steadily pouring in.

The awakening in the beauty business has also come as a boon to the ad industry. Most cosmetic firms spend a fortune on advertising. This is particularly welcome in view of the sluggish growth of the economy on other fronts.