A tension-free trek to holy cave
From Ehsan Fazili
Tribune News Service
CHANDANWARI, July 20 — Around sunrise these days long queues of pilgrims at the checkpoint here unravel religious fervour and tradition of the annual pilgrimage to the holy cave shrine of Amarnath which concludes on August 8 coinciding with the full moon on Raksha Bandhan.
When most of those who reached here from Pahalgam the previous evening have commenced their trek to the cave, more pilgrims start pouring in from Pahalgam, 16 km away, for the 32-km trek from here for "darshan" of the ice lingam of Lord Shiva. As the sun rises, the queues thin down. But the process of passage of pilgrims continues till 3 p.m. every day unless their number exceeds 3000.
The Jammu and Kashmir Government have fixed the number of 3000 pilgrims daily for onward journey from Chandanwari (2895 metres) where the motorable road ends. This decision was taken in order to avoid any rush at the halting stations of Sheshnag, Panjtarni and the cave as also stranding of the pilgrims on the hilly trek. In 1996 at least 250 pilgrims died on the trek due to heavy rains and snowfall. Pilgrims traffic is also regulated at other stations of Sheshnag (3352 metres) and Panjtarni (3657 metres) so that in case of bad weather the pilgrims are safely accommodated.
So far, according to the police and security officials, the Yatra has been peaceful and no untoward incident has taken place, although four landmines had been recovered along the route since the Yatra started on July 5. The state police, the Border Security Force (BSF) and the Central Reserve Police Force (CRPF) have been deployed for conduct of the smooth Yatra. While the Army provides an overall security to the route, three battalions of the BSF are deployed for the area security and personal security of pilgrims on the route. The CRPF and police assist the yatris on the route.
Unlike the earlier years of militancy, no militant outfit has "imposed any ban" on the pilgrimage. Last year also no ban was imposed on the yatra. However, the security agencies have been put on high alert and the convoys of pilgrims to and from Jammu to Pahalgam are moved under security escort.
As the pilgrims start their yatra from the security checkpoint here, they start climbing the 32-km trek to the holy cave shrine. Many of these pilgrims, unaware of the route, have varied preconceived ideas about a smooth pilgrimage. But for the frequent visitors, it is not different. Many of them still have in their minds the fearful scenes of the tragedy two years back. Many visiting security officers find an "improvement" in arrangements as compared to the previous years.
For Amarjit Singh Rattan from Ludhiana it is "tension-free" Yatra this year. Narinder accompanying him is also not the first timer and is equally enthusiastic about the pilgrimage. They seem to be satisfied with the arrangements made by the government right from their registration at Ludhiana. Amid the hymns in praise of Lord Shiva, Neelam Randev, Babita, Ruchika and Pallavi are hopeful of a "successful Yatra" to the holy cave shrine. "The people, arrangements and natural surroundings are wonderful. I wish gods are also happy with us", said Neelam.
Those who return after darshan of the ice lingam at the cave are satisfied of having been able to pay obeisance at the shrine. A.K. Dey along with his wife and children from Calcutta on his return from the cave said it was all peaceful and smooth. "I was worried when the weather was bad on 17th", said he adding that he had some problem in his legs and an injury in his hand. He was treated at a medical aid camp of the state police. Lal Chand from Gurgaon had his yatra alone. "That does not make any difference if I am alone.... I have been able to have a better journey and pilgrimage", he said.
Senior security and civil administration officials frequently visit this place which provides serene surroundings amid pine trees along the banks of the Liddar stream that cuts through Pahalgam, 16 km down, and flows down to join the Jhelum at Sangam near Anantnag.
As the Yatra goes on peacefully, the people of the area have to face the brunt of the pilgrims traffic. Except for labour on the route, hardly any local businessman is benefited by the inflow of thousands of pilgrims everyday. Shopkeepers in the main market at Pahalgam as also the makeshift shopkeepers here feel that they have been devoid of the business. "They (pilgrims) have everything with them and are served free food at the langars. I have no business", said a shopkeeper here.
Scores of villagers keep on waiting for long hours for the bus from Anantnag to Pahalgam. "The number of vehicles is less as most of these are deployed in connection with the yatra", said a waiting passenger near Mattan for Pahalgam. Abdul Gaffar along with his 25-year-old son had a long wait at Aishmuqam for a bus for Pahalgam. He says it takes two hours from Aishmuqam to Pahalgam, a distance of 20 km, as there are a number of security checks on the way in view of the Yatra.
Meanwhile, 56000 pilgrims have so far joined the annual Amarnath pilgrimage, while a large number of pilgrims continue to reach Jammu for the pilgrimage.
An official spokesman said here that on 16th day of the Yatra today, another group of 4059 left Jammu early this morning in 196 vehicles. More pilgrims have joined the Yatra from Udhampur but their exact number was not known.
Till last evening 40724 pilgrims had darshan of the holy ice Shivlingam at the Amarnath cave, including 4579 pilgrims who had darshan yesterday. Of them, 9842 had gone through on the Baltal route which was officially opened this year.
So far, 30930 pilgrims have returned back after completing the yatra. Till last evening there were 6949 pilgrims at Pahalgam while 13924 were at various halting places en route to the holy cave.
In view of the encouraging response of the pilgrims, the Yatra which is opened up to August 8, is likely to receive more than 1 lakh pilgrims this year.